goldstar
Senior Member
- Location
- New Jersey
- Occupation
- Electrical Contractor
Went on a service call yesterday after receiving a call from a plumbing contractor that do work for. On the phone he explained that he was at a customers house where an instant hot water unit was installed by someone else and he was there testing to see what the hot water recovery time was, After bleeding the system of hot water about 10 minutes went by and then the sound of an explosion from the basement came. When he went down to see what the problem was he saw a sub-panel that went from gray to charcoal.
I went out to investigate and found the foillowing:
Long story-short, the #4's burnt up and separated inside the nipple to the trough. The 350's are still in tact and un-damaged.
If I'm called in to make the correction to this system IMHO, and from the standpoint of safety, I would install two 150 amp main breaker panels and re-make the taps in the trough. I would be using the 150 amp main breakers both as overload protection and for safety and convenience. Neutrals would float and EGC's bonded to the enclosure. Am I wrong or is this over-kill ?
I went out to investigate and found the foillowing:
- There were two main lug panels; one was a 30 circuit SQ-D QO completely loaded the other was a 20 circuit
- Inside the 20 circuit panel were (2) 2-pole 30 amp breakers, (1) 15 amp 2-pole breaker and several 20 amp breakers
- the EC who installed the electric for the water heaters installed (2) 2-pole 50 amp breakers to feed the unit
Long story-short, the #4's burnt up and separated inside the nipple to the trough. The 350's are still in tact and un-damaged.
If I'm called in to make the correction to this system IMHO, and from the standpoint of safety, I would install two 150 amp main breaker panels and re-make the taps in the trough. I would be using the 150 amp main breakers both as overload protection and for safety and convenience. Neutrals would float and EGC's bonded to the enclosure. Am I wrong or is this over-kill ?