I was talking to some guys at the supply house an the topic got around to log cabins and one said that the fein multimaster would be better and faster at cutting the boxes in the logs. Since I ve only seen it on the internet an dont know anyone with one was wondering what you think , if it would be better than drilling an chiseling?
Fein multimaster
- Thread starter bbe
- Start date
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quogueelectric
Senior Member
- Location
- new york
It looks like a great tool although I have never owned one or used one. I have the Bosch fine cutting tool I call it the widowmaker because someday I am going to kill myself with it(not intentionally it is extremely dangerous to operate)
- Location
- Massachusetts
cadpoint
Senior Member
- Location
- Durham, NC
Interesting tool, never seen one live. The tool itself is on sale at a certain web engine about half price! @ $150.00
Their two cut distances, on attachment cut length is 1. 5/8" for the Fein E-Cut Universal Blade @ $70.00.
Or the 2.1/2'" Standard E-cut blade at $60.00.
6 assortment cutters $108. All prices stated are new, used prices of attachments are all over the web.
Is that enough ? With this type of tool do you get that total distance ?
Seems you still have to get out a hammer and chisel!
The wish list marchs on!
TOOL_5150
Senior Member
- Location
- bay area, ca
I have one- it works VERY well. It is loud though.
~Matt
~Matt
goldstar
Senior Member
- Location
- New Jersey
- Occupation
- Electrical Contractor
The tool works great (as I posted in the thread Bob Iwire mentioned) and makes exact cuts. There are knock-off's currently on the market but I can't attest to how well they operate. I haven't had the experience of installing boxes in log cabins so I can't speak to that issue. However, if you're looking to make an exact cut into say a cabinet or a wall made of plaster and wood lath, using a gig saw or reciprocating saw will make a mess not to mention that you may not be able to turn the saw or get into tight spots. This tool will make the exact cut but make sure you practice on scrap pieces of wood before using it the for first time. If you have the vibration set too high it has a tendency to run. When you start your cut, hold the tool on an angle and make a small plunge cut so that you'll have a guide for the remainder of the straight cut.
I purchased mine on E-Bay several months ago and have only used it once. I can't say it paid for itself yet but I'm sure it will over time. I think it's worth the $$ buying a new one. I'm not one for buying used tools unless I find one in a garage sale and I can see and test it for myself. The attachments are expensive also but again, I think you can find deals on E-Bay.
Good luck,
Phil
I purchased mine on E-Bay several months ago and have only used it once. I can't say it paid for itself yet but I'm sure it will over time. I think it's worth the $$ buying a new one. I'm not one for buying used tools unless I find one in a garage sale and I can see and test it for myself. The attachments are expensive also but again, I think you can find deals on E-Bay.
Good luck,
Phil
As Peter pointed out in the thread iwire linked to, there is a guy on the JLC forum that makes his own blades and sells them for very cheap. The members on JLC that have purchased blades from him have reported that they work as well as the Fein blades. I have one of the older Multimasters that will accept blades with a simple hole so I'm going to buy from that guy the next time I need wood blades. I would imagine that this style tool that doesn't require start blades is still available new on ebay.
I agree with most of the comments posted about the Multimaster - it's slow, it's noisy, it's expensive, but it works very well at what it does and there's no substitute in some cases.
As for the cost, think of it this way: There used to be three levels of power tools - cheap homeowner stuff (like the Black and Decker $20 cordless drills), professional tools (Milwaukee, Dewalt, Bosch), and really good professional tools (Hilti, Fein, Festool). The first category of really cheap stuff hasn't changed much in the last 5 years. The Milwaukee and Dewalt I know first hand have decreased in quality in the last 5 years. Standard Dewalt cordless tools use plastic gears unless you buy the XRP series, and I've heard the newest Milwaukee cordless isn't as good as the older series. If you buy Milwaukee hole shooters and Sawzalls make sure you look at a full catalog first and buy the more expensive ones - the bottom few models of drills and sawzalls have less powerful motors, shorter stroke, 2 stage gear reduction instead of 3 stage, and so on because the low end is sold through home centers. There's a reason that the costs of the Milwaukee and Dewalt cordless tools hasn't risen with inflation in recent years - they're making them cheaper instead of raising the price. The price of the higher-end sawzalls and hole shooters has gone up because they're maintaining quality.
Anyway, with the sporadic declines in quality of the so-called professional tool lines it's becoming easier for me to justify the more expansive brands such as Hilti and Fein, and Festool for woodworking stuff.
I agree with most of the comments posted about the Multimaster - it's slow, it's noisy, it's expensive, but it works very well at what it does and there's no substitute in some cases.
As for the cost, think of it this way: There used to be three levels of power tools - cheap homeowner stuff (like the Black and Decker $20 cordless drills), professional tools (Milwaukee, Dewalt, Bosch), and really good professional tools (Hilti, Fein, Festool). The first category of really cheap stuff hasn't changed much in the last 5 years. The Milwaukee and Dewalt I know first hand have decreased in quality in the last 5 years. Standard Dewalt cordless tools use plastic gears unless you buy the XRP series, and I've heard the newest Milwaukee cordless isn't as good as the older series. If you buy Milwaukee hole shooters and Sawzalls make sure you look at a full catalog first and buy the more expensive ones - the bottom few models of drills and sawzalls have less powerful motors, shorter stroke, 2 stage gear reduction instead of 3 stage, and so on because the low end is sold through home centers. There's a reason that the costs of the Milwaukee and Dewalt cordless tools hasn't risen with inflation in recent years - they're making them cheaper instead of raising the price. The price of the higher-end sawzalls and hole shooters has gone up because they're maintaining quality.
Anyway, with the sporadic declines in quality of the so-called professional tool lines it's becoming easier for me to justify the more expansive brands such as Hilti and Fein, and Festool for woodworking stuff.
mdshunk
Senior Member
- Location
- Right here.
- Location
- Massachusetts
How about a large plunge router and a few hardboard templates for the various size boxes you want to use?
Once you cut the perimeter you should be able to split out the rest I would think.
Once you cut the perimeter you should be able to split out the rest I would think.
Never thought of that only used the router to cut chases in what I've been doing is using a 2 " self feed bit an drilling 2 holes right above each other an then chiseling the rest out and hoping the holes the builder drilled is there an clear.... Is the router quicker?
mdshunk
Senior Member
- Location
- Right here.
You should PM user 480sparky. I think he's the only regular on this site that does primarily log homes. I seem to remember that he said his builder does the box holes, but I forget. I've read other guys on other sites talk about a "dime tip" chainsaw bar to cut them out with a chainsaw.
Ed Carr
Senior Member
- Location
- way upstate NY
bbe,i've done several log cabins including one 3 story with
log partitions,no stud walls.Definitely make yourself a template
for a router.Get a good high power router,mine is a monster
Porter Cable.Still use your self feed bit first to take away the
major portion of material.Hope this helps.
Ed
log partitions,no stud walls.Definitely make yourself a template
for a router.Get a good high power router,mine is a monster
Porter Cable.Still use your self feed bit first to take away the
major portion of material.Hope this helps.
Ed
Fulthrotl
~Autocorrect is My Worst Enema.~
- Occupation
- E
it'll do a great job, but it's gonna take a while... and blades, even the
knock offs that are sold on ebay, are *expensive*
a plunge router and templates sounds a lot more efficient... i've done a
fair amount of routering, and you need something with some serious
power...
the minimum i'd consider is a Porter-Cable 693LRPK 1-3/4 HP Router Kit,
it's a nice unit, industry standard. i have one, it works well.
now, if ya want to make some serious chips, and are gonna be using it
a LOT, i'd go for the festool OF2200EB router.... you can eyeball it here....
http://www.festoolusa.com/products/routers/of-2200-eb-router-gallery-574277.html
it was designed for the solid surface countertop guys, and people who
need to remove lots of chips fast.... festool is currently running a special
promo in combination with their shop vac... this thing is better at chip
collection and dust control than anything else i've ever seen. you can
router a corian countertop in an occupied house with it, if you have the
vac hooked up. no dust. festool does dust control better than anyone.
video of it here:
http://www.festooljunkie.com/blog/f...his-is-one-mean-machine-just-watch-the-video/
randy
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