fired sensor

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iam using sensor switch occupancy sensor to control lights in a hallway,but the sensors rated for 800w and my lights total watts is over 1500w anyway the sensor was fired . iam switching 120v lighting. i was told if i use a ice cube relay in junction with the sensor i would be able to make the sensor work. how would i wire these two devices together . the sensor is a 3 wire hot,load,ground
 

chris kennedy

Senior Member
Location
Miami Fla.
Occupation
60 yr old tool twisting electrician
laurenceau said:
iam using sensor switch occupancy sensor to control lights in a hallway,but the sensors rated for 800w and my lights total watts is over 1500w anyway the sensor was fired . iam switching 120v lighting. i was told if i use a ice cube relay in junction with the sensor i would be able to make the sensor work. how would i wire these two devices together . the sensor is a 3 wire hot,load,ground

1500W of what type of lighting? What brand of OS?
 

cschmid

Senior Member
you will need to install a j-box big enough to handle the relay..then wire the power from the panel to the j-box..Then run the wires from the lights to the same j-box..then hook all the neutral together with a jumper to the neutral on the coil..hook up hots to normally open contacts on relay block..then run wire from the hot coming from the panel to the switch and the load on the switch back to the coil on the relay..when switch is activated it will activate only the relay..when the relay is closed it will carry the load from the panel to the lights..

I hope that makes sense..
 
fried sensor

fried sensor

you said tie hot from panel to n.o on relay and pigtail off that hot to switch ,then tie all neutral together and also connect relay,load from switch to relay what about load wire from light
 

chris kennedy

Senior Member
Location
Miami Fla.
Occupation
60 yr old tool twisting electrician
laurenceau said:
you said tie hot from panel to n.o on relay and pigtail off that hot to switch ,then tie all neutral together and also connect relay,load from switch to relay what about load wire from light
Did you go to the link I provided? It's the right product for the job and specs, wiring diagrams are there.
 
the problem is iam trying to correct this by tommorrow i willnot beable to enter this ceiling once this area is occupied
 

hillbilly1

Senior Member
Location
North Georgia mountains
Occupation
Owner/electrical contractor
chris kennedy said:
Go here, click on power packs then PP20. Sensor switch products are great IMO.

I've been to their factory, it's pretty cool how they build and test them. They even have a device that you can point towards a flouresent lamp and tell whether it's fired by a magnetic ballast, or an electronic ballast. (picks up the high frequency the electronic uses)
 

chris kennedy

Senior Member
Location
Miami Fla.
Occupation
60 yr old tool twisting electrician
laurenceau said:
does anybody have answer to this problem other then purchasing pp-20 product. the sensor it self took me some time to get

What have you got? Wall mount, ceiling? Model number?
 

chris kennedy

Senior Member
Location
Miami Fla.
Occupation
60 yr old tool twisting electrician
electricalperson said:
you cant just put it in series with a relay coil that operates at the same voltage?

Most likely sure. But if the first unit is fried and OP has to order another, Op can get the right relay at the same time.
 

hillbilly1

Senior Member
Location
North Georgia mountains
Occupation
Owner/electrical contractor
Off the shelf Ice cube relays are usually only good for 7 amps, and have a 250 volt limitation, a power relay would be a better choice, they are cheap (about $12) relatively compact and come in 20 and 30 amp flavors and can be SP,DP,TP,SPDT,DPDT, and TPDT. And will handle 277, Enclosures specifically made for them also take up little space (about the size of a jumbo handy box) On the shelf at your nearest Grainger.
 

LarryFine

Master Electrician Electric Contractor Richmond VA
Location
Henrico County, VA
Occupation
Electrical Contractor
You guys like to work too hard. Speaking of Grainger, check out the 'relay-in-a-box' on Cat. page 303. They're totally enclosed and pre-wired, have SPDT contacts, and simply attach to any 1/2" KO with a locknut.

XL-5LE36.JPG

They come in 10a and 20a versions, with multiple actuating voltages, both LV and line voltage. These two are the 20a versions, the first one is with a 24v/120v coil, and the second with a 24v/208-277v coil.

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/5LE36

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/5LE37
 

cschmid

Senior Member
You can do it with an ice cube relay but you would have to order a big enough one..a contactor would work better..but I am with Larry buy the correct product and not work so hard at it..but if you are suppose to be done by yesterday good luck..
 

hillbilly1

Senior Member
Location
North Georgia mountains
Occupation
Owner/electrical contractor
Forgot about the RIBs, yes they are the easiest way to do it, especially for lighting control, but there not really hardy enough for loads like motors though, even though there rated for 20 amps, they use a small contact that probally would not take sustained high currents such motor startup, but would be great in the application that you need.
 
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