Flashing for electrical boxes - any experience?

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rlane00

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Location
Clackamas, OR
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Electrical Contractor, Supervising Electrician, EE
Hi all. A home-builder that we work for has requested that we start using a flashing panel for electrical boxes, presumably to provide a more water-tight seal, and I would like to know if anyone has experience with these. I've provided a link to the company that makes the flashing: http://www.quickflashproducts.com/Electrical1.htm

Would appreciate any comments on how to handle the various outside wall penetrations, especially from those who have used the product. I already talked with the manufacturer and they were unaware of some of the installation issues:

A couple of issues I've already thought of:
1) Flashing is only warranted with a box or conduit, so how to handle SE or AC / hot tub wiring?
2) Couldn't stub-out for receptacles and lights at rough-in any more so we'd probably have to switch to 1G adjustable boxes instead. However, not all lights align with the 1G instead of 3/0 cut-in for mounting.

Thanks.
 
rlane00 said:
We actually use these at a few of this customer's projects, but not all. They also want all penetrations (lights, A/C and presumably the service) to use this flashing... and if not possible then I'd like to explain why.
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IF it's a job spec, not much point in debating the merits of either product.

IF it's my choice, I'll go with Arlington's products.
 
What you see in the Arlington products is not a "flashing" but is a nailing flange similar to the nailing flange on a window.

If you install the box as shown by cutting through the weather resistive barrier and installing the nailing flange entirely on the top of the weather resistive barrier a flashing would still be required to be installed to seal around the opening.

Here is a link to a Tyvek installation instruction. There is a section in the instructions dealing specifically with penetrations through the weather resistive barrier.

Again this is a building code so it would not neccessarly be the electricians responsibility to flash around the electrical openings.

Chris
 
raider1 said:
What you see in the Arlington products is not a "flashing" but is a nailing flange similar to the nailing flange on a window.

If you install the box as shown by cutting through the weather resistive barrier and installing the nailing flange entirely on the top of the weather resistive barrier a flashing would still be required to be installed to seal around the opening.

Here is a link to a Tyvek installation instruction. There is a section in the instructions dealing specifically with penetrations through the weather resistive barrier.

Again this is a building code so it would not neccessarly be the electricians responsibility to flash around the electrical openings.

Chris
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If you are using the arlington you do not need flashing around these boxes or anyy of there products to meet building codes, we went thru this with arlington over the years.
 
satcom said:
If you are using the arlington you do not need flashing around these boxes or anyy of there products to meet building codes, we went thru this with arlington over the years.
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Could you please provide me with the documentation to back this up.

I don't see how the nailing flange of the Arlington boxes are suitable as a flashing.

Chris
 
satcom said:
If you are using the arlington you do not need flashing around these boxes or anyy of there products to meet building codes, we went thru this with arlington over the years.
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The builder is actually not implementing this to meet building code, but instead to address relatively new state laws (Oregon) that mandate a 10 year warranty. They are trying to address and minimize water penetration liability. I don't know if this is any better than the "old way" which just used caulking around the outside of the boxes, but they've told me this is their plan so I'm trying to understand the logistics of implementing, as well as any known limitations.
 
rlane00 said:
The builder is actually not implementing this to meet building code, but instead to address relatively new state laws (Oregon) that mandate a 10 year warranty. They are trying to address and minimize water penetration liability. I don't know if this is any better than the "old way" which just used caulking around the outside of the boxes, but they've told me this is their plan so I'm trying to understand the logistics of implementing, as well as any known limitations.
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<ost insurance companies would rather see a building levled by fire, rather then see water damage, which is followed by mold damage, a never ending liability, We se many companies getting away from the flashing, and going to the formed fit material, for water barriers.

The HVAC seal for compressors is something that looks intresting.
 
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