Float Switch

Seven-Delta-FortyOne

Goin’ Down In Flames........
Location
Humboldt
Occupation
EC and GC
This is inside the water tank, its purpose is to activate 2 water wells.

Almost always they are wired into a contactor at the pump control.

I have an in ground pull box where the branch circuits from the panel split to the two different wells. The pull box is right next to the water tank that is getting the float switch.

Is there any reason that I can’t wire the float switch in series with the branch circuit conductors in the pull box? I can’t think of any reason not to, I just haven’t seen it done like that that I can remember.

Each well pump has its own 20A branch circuit, so I would need 2 float switches of course.
 
The switch-to-contactor arrangement gives you option of keeping the "it might get wet" voltages in the 12-24V range as a safety precaution. Otherwise, putting the float in series would be no different than a basement sump pump.
 
Using the contactor will jet the float switches also see less current through them potentially making for longer life. also when using set the trip heights slightly different so as not to trip both pumps at the same time (unless you need them to trip at the same time). Maybe a duplexer would be in order to optimize pump usage ??

Just some thoughts.


Howard
 
Using the contactor will jet the float switches also see less current through them potentially making for longer life. also when using set the trip heights slightly different so as not to trip both pumps at the same time (unless you need them to trip at the same time). Maybe a duplexer would be in order to optimize pump usage ??

Just some thoughts.


Howard

That was one of my concerns is that the switch would see not only FLA, but inrush current as well.

I’d have to dig in and see if they are even rated for that.

My thought was to try and save 1000 feet of wire.
 
If saving 1000ft of wire, that's probably worth the study. Explain more of the design and pumps. 1HP and down is about 6x FLA for inrush. While I certainly agree with trying to keep the heat off a float switch, especially when you consider they usually switch with gravity force alone, but I am also considering such things as sewage ejector pump switches, which seem to survive a tough job!

I would say some of it should come down to ease of float replacement.

But I also don't understand the need for all the wire? Can you not just add a box for your contactors near the pump station? Route design wiring so line voltage goes through the floats and 'makes' the circuit for the mag coils?
 
If saving 1000ft of wire, that's probably worth the study. Explain more of the design and pumps. 1HP and down is about 6x FLA for inrush. While I certainly agree with trying to keep the heat off a float switch, especially when you consider they usually switch with gravity force alone, but I am also considering such things as sewage ejector pump switches, which seem to survive a tough job!

I would say some of it should come down to ease of float replacement.

But I also don't understand the need for all the wire? Can you not just add a box for your contactors near the pump station? Route design wiring so line voltage goes through the floats and 'makes' the circuit for the mag coils?
^Yes.
 
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