Flourescents on dimmers

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With the way the mercury content is so low in the lamps now, and all the marginal ballasts from overseas, we're lucky if the fixture lights up right with a regular switch. Throw a dimmer into the mix that's supposed to dim all fluorescents, and now you're headed for trouble, in my opinion.

I'll let you check it out and give us the full report! ;)
 
I haven't used Acenti Dimmers so I can't comment on them. What I have used are Lutron fluorescent dimmers (DVF-103P specifically) and they work very well. One of the advantages of the Lutron is that they look like standard designer paddle switches (and they use the standard designer wallplates).
 
I didn't know you could dim just any fluorescent fixture with a std. dimmer switch. I was under the impression that you needed a dimmable ballast. Am I wrong ? Maybe they're giving me the wrong info at the supply house.
 
goldstar said:
I didn't know you could dim just any fluorescent fixture with a std. dimmer switch. I was under the impression that you needed a dimmable ballast. Am I wrong ?
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No, you're correct. The fluorescent dimmer switch (which is NOT a standard dimmer switch) is only half of the equation; you also need a compatible electronic dimming ballast. I didn't mention that previously because I figured the OP would know that he'd have to get an appropriate ballast to match his switch selection.

In the case of the Lutron DVF-103P switch, you would need to use Lutron's Hi-Lume FDB-Series electronic fluorescent dimming ballast.
 
Actually there is no easy answer, some standard electronic ballasts can be dimmed some can not.

I have wired dimming fluorescents that use three line voltage conductors from dimer to ballast, others that had two line voltage and two low voltage control conductors and others that just required a dimmer in place of a standard switch.

Every manufacturer seems to handle it differently.
 
I will agree with Iwire's comment on that one.

but also i will like to head up just watch out with 277 dimming ballast if you want to change the flourscent bulbs on them make sure you disconnect the power first.

{ IIRC i think Advance ballast but other i am not sure but i think they did mention that as well }

Merci, Marc

P.S. with new bulbs you have to " burn in " [ break in ] for at least 100 hours after that you will have good life with the bulbs. so they will perform very well with it
 
I used about 12 thousand dollars worth of "Acenti " dimmers , receptacles ,and switches . AND I WILL NEVER USE THEM AGAIN !!!! They have been nothing but a problem for the last 2 years. I have spent countless hours trouble shooting them and had the Leviton reps out to the job no less then 4 times and they are still failing :mad:
 
the thing to remember about dimming fluorescent is that you get 100%. 90% and 80%, and then one of your fixtures will start to flicker if you try to go lower than that. so basically it sucks.
 
iwire said:
~and others that just required a dimmer in place of a standard switch.
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Haven't seen those yet - got a lead on manufacturer?

Over the past few years at least I have been limited to Lutons "Tu-wire" compatable dimming ballasts, and Lutron "Tu-wire" dimmers - Both extreamly pricey and limited to only a few amps....
 
It is possible to dim fluorescent lamps well, and it is done routinely in film and (to a lesser degrere) theatre applications. But you can't do it cheaply.

The truth of the matter is that most dimmed fluoros are under the control of a BMS to maintain light levels whilst reducing power consumption, and thus the tubes are never dimmed below 50%. Its the last 50% that is hard and expensive, and the last couple of percent really hard and really expensive.
 
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