Every place I have worked has a common practice to mount surface mount fluorescent fixtures to sheetrocked lids by punching a hole into the back of the fixture, bring the NM wire through the hole and then making up the fixture. The fixture is the junction box. Most of the holes punched are 2" done clean using a KO punch, but I have also seen butcher jobs using tin snips that leave a terrible jagged hole. The NM is not protected and certainly not connected with a proper connector. What is the rule????
Fluor fixture mounted to drywall lid with NM stub out
- Thread starter yanert
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resistance
Senior Member
- Location
- WA
Re: Fluor fixture mounted to drywall lid with NM stub out
That would be article 300.4 (B)(1): In both exposed and concealed locations where nonmetallic-sheathed cables pass through either factory or field punched, cut, or drilled slots or holes in metal memebers, the cable shall be protected by listed bushings or listed gromets covering all metal edges that are securely fastened in the opening prior to installation of the cable.
That would be article 300.4 (B)(1): In both exposed and concealed locations where nonmetallic-sheathed cables pass through either factory or field punched, cut, or drilled slots or holes in metal memebers, the cable shall be protected by listed bushings or listed gromets covering all metal edges that are securely fastened in the opening prior to installation of the cable.
hurk27
Senior Member
- Location
- Portage, Indiana NEC: 2008
Re: Fluor fixture mounted to drywall lid with NM stub out
The 2" KO in the back of the fixture is only for mounting the fixture over a box. which now will have single thhn wires running through the hole without the sheathing of the NM? Go figure
I would say that the NM needs to be secured to the fixture by a NM connector As stated in 314.17(B)
300.4(B)(1) Is only where NM runs through wall studs (Framing members) as the heading of the section states.
[ November 16, 2004, 12:46 AM: Message edited by: hurk27 ]
The 2" KO in the back of the fixture is only for mounting the fixture over a box. which now will have single thhn wires running through the hole without the sheathing of the NM? Go figure
I would say that the NM needs to be secured to the fixture by a NM connector As stated in 314.17(B)
300.4(B)(1) Is only where NM runs through wall studs (Framing members) as the heading of the section states.
[ November 16, 2004, 12:46 AM: Message edited by: hurk27 ]
Re: Fluor fixture mounted to drywall lid with NM stub out
Nah, that can't be right. Wouldn't you have to use a cover with 1/2" KO and a chase nipple?
Regarding the NM through the drywall lid, we always used a top hat, and left enough slack in the NM for future fixture replacement if necessary.
edited to say... I feel rather sheepish now. I just realized it would be practically impossible to attach the chase nipple to the cover and fixture AND then attach the cover to the box. I guess a plastic bushing in the back of the fixture would be in order, and use an open box.
[ November 16, 2004, 02:28 PM: Message edited by: royta ]
Nah, that can't be right. Wouldn't you have to use a cover with 1/2" KO and a chase nipple?
Regarding the NM through the drywall lid, we always used a top hat, and left enough slack in the NM for future fixture replacement if necessary.
edited to say... I feel rather sheepish now. I just realized it would be practically impossible to attach the chase nipple to the cover and fixture AND then attach the cover to the box. I guess a plastic bushing in the back of the fixture would be in order, and use an open box.
[ November 16, 2004, 02:28 PM: Message edited by: royta ]
Re: Fluor fixture mounted to drywall lid with NM stub out
Drilling a 1/2 " hole in the back of a bath bar and bringing the cable in with a plastic clamp is real common around here. I stopped doing it when I started thinking about heat. The wires in the fixture have 105 Deg. insultion on them and says 90 deg supply wires min. but I think those 90 deg supply wires are supposed to be in a box behind the fixture. I think you need to check with manufacturer of light to see if light is listed for "being the junction box". Like I said I just use a box a nd put it behind me.
Drilling a 1/2 " hole in the back of a bath bar and bringing the cable in with a plastic clamp is real common around here. I stopped doing it when I started thinking about heat. The wires in the fixture have 105 Deg. insultion on them and says 90 deg supply wires min. but I think those 90 deg supply wires are supposed to be in a box behind the fixture. I think you need to check with manufacturer of light to see if light is listed for "being the junction box". Like I said I just use a box a nd put it behind me.
hurk27
Senior Member
- Location
- Portage, Indiana NEC: 2008
Re: Fluor fixture mounted to drywall lid with NM stub out
Just a note on the "2005"
It will be required to have access to the juntion box after the fixture is mounted. From what I have heard it was the intent all along but very miss understood and some manufactures did understand it thats why some will have the 2" KO in the back of the fixture.
"2005" clears up this misunderstanding.
And can be found on page 197 of the Analysis Of Changes for 2005
Just a note on the "2005"
It will be required to have access to the juntion box after the fixture is mounted. From what I have heard it was the intent all along but very miss understood and some manufactures did understand it thats why some will have the 2" KO in the back of the fixture.
"2005" clears up this misunderstanding.
And can be found on page 197 of the Analysis Of Changes for 2005
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