Foam board boxed in recessed lights

Status
Not open for further replies.

LarryFine

Master Electrician Electric Contractor Richmond VA
Not if you maintain a 3" spacing between the can and surrounding materials.


(Shouldn't that be "HighHeeled"?)
 
I don't know how I came up with this handle really. I talked to you on the remote central x-10 forums as jazzman once in a great while. What would you do, save the money and just space your foam board away from the RI or spend the money and have it up tight? There are skylights in the area so I have to do a lot of vault sidewalls anyway, maybe I should save the money.
 
Larry one other question. If I am using the "remote transformer" type of recess rough in (which only has a junction box, no transformer) what is the customary wire type that is run on this low volt circuit? I assume any cl2 wire that is of the correct wire size for the load and distance will suffice but I was wondering what is customary. I am thinking cl2 speaker wire, but would the inspector allow typical outdoor extension cord for those runs? It sure is easy to work with and cheap too.
 

hurk27

Senior Member
Not on the subject, but close

Fair warning for those thinking of using a open CFL fixture in a insulated ceiling by boxing in the fixture with foam boards, we had a lighting designer who spec out these fixtures and the way to install them like this, and guess what, we couldn't keep a ballast in them, within a year we lost over 25 ballast. and now the lighting supply company is out of business, and we are left dealing with it.:mad:

We have replaced all the ballast with the Motorola High Temp rated ones and so far have not lost any more, but never again will I trust a lighting designer.

so as per the above I think you might want to check what happens when to much heat builds up in the foam box, it might cause the temperature limit to cycle the lamp. IC cans can still release heat through the insulation, but the foam board will contain it.

Just a thought.;)
 
I think ultimately it will be a new LED MR16 light bulb but I am sure that I have to correctly install it (the fixture) for it's wattage rating. I definitely hear you on the "heat has to go somewhere" argument. You can't fight physics.
 

hurk27

Senior Member
Larry one other question. If I am using the "remote transformer" type of recess rough in (which only has a junction box, no transformer) what is the customary wire type that is run on this low volt circuit? I assume any cl2 wire that is of the correct wire size for the load and distance will suffice but I was wondering what is customary. I am thinking cl2 speaker wire, but would the inspector allow typical outdoor extension cord for those runs? It sure is easy to work with and cheap too.
Low voltage wiring will require a chapter 3 wiring method, there is no UL listed low voltage wiring that is allowed in the wall, or ceiling. Class 2 wiring is not listed for LV lighting application see 411
 

hurk27

Senior Member
Looks like I am REALLY gonna have to get a code book, thanks. So are you saying only good ole romex (or conduit) for the low volt secondary wiring?
As far as I know? this has be a many of debates here on LV cabinet lighting.

do some searches on LV cabinet lighting here.
 

gndrod

Senior Member
LV in ceiling

LV in ceiling

As far as I know? this has be a many of debates here on LV cabinet lighting.

do some searches on LV cabinet lighting here.
Isn't there IC rated cans comparable to an H7? As far as in-wall LV wiring, biting the bullet by using NMB would save a lot of inspector discussions. Those luminaires still require EGC bonding. rbj
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top