One more question about building steel. If you have a cinder block building with steel bar joist would you have to bond the steel to service, or is that only for steel column type buildings only.
Do you know what code section they may be citing on the metal studs? I certainly hope not 250.104(C) as I don't see that applying to most typical instances with metal studs. First disqualifier - they generally are not exposed.I know that some inspectors require metal studs to be bonded but that can be done with the equipment grounding conductor not grounding electrode conductor. Normally the 4" sq. boxes mounted to the studs will suffice but I have heard other say the inspector wanted every stud bonded---:happysad:
I know that some inspectors require metal studs to be bonded but that can be done with the equipment grounding conductor not grounding electrode conductor. Normally the 4" sq. boxes mounted to the studs will suffice but I have heard other say the inspector wanted every stud bonded---:happysad:
This requirement was added to the Florida Building Code after an appliance installer was electrocuted while he was attempting to connect the dryer exhuast duct on a new single-family dwelling. It appears the the kitchen cabinet installers drilled a screw through the range cord and into a metal stud. This energized the metal framing which was also in contact with the dryer exhaust duct. There was no effective fault path once the metal stud became energized.
The section is written poorly and does not follow NEC language or the NFOA style manual. Most installers simply use one or more metal boxes for branch circuit outlets when installed in a metal stud wall / ceiling. After the intitial learning curve and confusion on how to comply, it really has not been a major compliance issue...
It is a Florida rule. This is from another thread about it.
It is a Florida rule. This is from another thread about it.
Originally Posted by bphgravity![]()
This requirement was added to the Florida Building Code after an appliance installer was electrocuted while he was attempting to connect the dryer exhuast duct on a new single-family dwelling. It appears the the kitchen cabinet installers drilled a screw through the range cord and into a metal stud. This energized the metal framing which was also in contact with the dryer exhaust duct. There was no effective fault path once the metal stud became energized.
The section is written poorly and does not follow NEC language or the NFOA style manual. Most installers simply use one or more metal boxes for branch circuit outlets when installed in a metal stud wall / ceiling. After the intitial learning curve and confusion on how to comply, it really has not been a major compliance issue...
my question to those that made this rule is why stop with metal studs?
I agree with your thoughts.
The reason I remembered it at all was because when I leaned of the rule it stood out in my mind as foolish code making.
Right near me now is a large roll around tool box with a live extension cord running by it. It is possible that the cord gets yanked around the edge of the box, the insulation gets skinned exposes the hot copper and energizes the box.
Should we run a bond wire to it? :huh:
And if the bonding jumpers are in the form of chain or aircraft cable, you might deter theft at the same time!Apparently there is at least one place in Florida where you probably have to. Better run bonding jumpers from the tool box to all metallic tools it contains while you are at it.
Chain isn't generally deemed a good bonding conductor:happyno:And if the bonding jumpers are in the form of chain or aircraft cable, you might deter theft at the same time!![]()
When I started it was a common practice to wrap chain around switch gear bus after opening the breaker, before working in the gear.Chain isn't generally deemed a good bonding conductor:happyno: