The ground wire that you run out to the pole is in fact a bonding jumper to the neutral of your power source with out it, a short to ground would not throw the breaker in a fault condition. This is why you bond your ground to the neutral at your main. The equipment grounding conductor and ground rod at the pole provide the shortest distance to ground for a lightning strike this could be millions of volts but normally low amperage. lightning has a tendency to conduct over the out side of a conductor rather than through it, if your ground rod is correctly installed driven flush with the ground you will dissipate the voltage to ground rapidly with few if any streamers. When improperly driven, say a ground rod 6 inch's above grade with a high resistance the lightning will then travel across the ground or just above striking anything and ever thing in the form of streamers as it searches for ground. What you witness is the equalization of potential positive and negative ,earth to atmosphere. But don't be fooled lighting can go up or come down. Hopefully the conductors leading to the pole will not be effected by the strike. Unfortunately many times the wiring does take a hit, usually because the system was not grounded effectively to start with and ultimately provides a path to ground for the lightning or some of its streamers. The worse the grounding method normally the worse the damage done normally indicated by how many appliances etc, it took out. Most lightning conductors are a mesh of wire rather than a solid conductor this dissipates the heat produced rapidly over the conductor. I suggest you review bonding and grounding. Also it is important to note that if you have to up size your conductor for voltage drop over along distance, you should also increase the size of your grounding conductor so as not to create a high resistance bonding / grounding path back to the main which is normally evidenced by a delayed trip of the breaker and sometimes a long audible short to ground