Grounding Whirlpool Tub

Status
Not open for further replies.
J

jeff43222

Senior Member
Location
Minneapolis, Minnesota
I was roughing in a new bathroom today and came to the part where I have to ground the motor. I found it interesting since the motor has a grounded cord-n-plug installed, so I figured it would be bonded inside. Anyway, I plan on putting the thing on a 20A individual circuit with GFCI protection, but I have a couple of questions about the grounding:

1. The tub is not really "installed" yet. It's sitting in the corner where it's supposed to go, but it's not hooked up to the drain, nor is there any framework supporting it. Should I insist that it be fixed in place before I ground it?

2. I don't do a lot of work with motors, so I'm assuming I can ground it with a #12 Cu wire as per 250.122. Are there any special requirements I should know about?
 
Jeff, if...

  • You're under the 2005
  • the drain is non-metallic
  • the piping integral to the tub is plastic

...then you don't need to do anything special. Install the receptacle in the right place, make arrangements for the receptacle to be accessible and the pump plugged in, and walk away. :)

See 680.74.
 
Last edited:
What will you be grounding? All of the hydromassage tubs I've seen lately are entirely plastic with the exception of the motor which will be grounded with the EGC in the cord, Yes, you would size the EGC according to 250.122.
 
We are under the 2005 code here.
The tub drain is plastic.
All the integral piping looks plastic, too.

So all I have to do is plug it into the dedicated 20A GFCI receptacle and I'm done? This sounds too easy. The motor has a big sticker on it warning that it needs to be grounded. Or is that for more traditional installations where metal pipes are used (most of the new plumbing in this bathroom is plastic)?

Speaking of the correct location for the receptacle, should I place the receptacle inside the motor compartment (whenever it gets built) or outside? Seems like it would be better inside, but the homeowner wants it outside. The only code-related issue my tired brain can think of is having the cord pass through a "wall" of sorts, which is think is not allowed.
 
jeff43222 said:
So all I have to do is plug it into the dedicated 20A GFCI receptacle and I'm done? This sounds too easy.
Click to expand...

It is too easy, but that's all you have to do. :)
 
jeff43222 said:
Speaking of the correct location for the receptacle, should I place the receptacle inside the motor compartment (whenever it gets built) or outside? Seems like it would be better inside, but the homeowner wants it outside. The only code-related issue my tired brain can think of is having the cord pass through a "wall" of sorts, which is think is not allowed.
Click to expand...

680.73 Accessibility.
Hydromassage bathtub electrical equipment shall be accessible without damaging the building structure or building finish.

How's that?


Many of these tubs even have an access hatch built into them. Watch the connected cord length - probably 3' - if you keep your wire long enough to hit either end of the tub (because it hasn't been "set") you can't lose.
 
celtic said:
Many of these tubs even have an access hatch built into them. Watch the connected cord length - probably 3'
Click to expand...

Definitely check the cord length. ;)

At least one mfr, I won't name names but rhymes with "Kohler", ships some models with 2' cords.
 
In this case, the tub is a corner model, so there's only one way it can be set in place. The cord is pretty short, but the motor is close to the wall where I'm planning on mounting the receptacle. There is no support structure or access panel that I've seen; all that's there is the tub. I don't know if the the homeowner has to build a structure for the tub or if the tub company has something prefabbed that can be installed.
 
Here again we have the confusion between BONDING and GROUNDING. 680.74 (2002 Code) requires that "all metal piping systems, metal parts of electrical equipment, and pump motors associated with the hydromassage tub shall be bonded together using a copper bonding jumper, insulated, covered or bare, not smaller than 8 AWG solid." That is why there is a lug on the motor and is what the manufacturer is referring to when they say the motor must be grounded. If there is no metal piping system, and no metal parts of electrical equipment present, then there is nothing that needs to be bonded together. Install the GFCI receptacle and you are done. If there is a metal piping system bond it together with the motor lug with a solid 8 AWG wire and you are done. Do not run the bonding wire back to the panel. The tub is "grounded" through the cord; the purpose of the bonding wire is to keep all metallic surfaces at the same potential. You are correct that the receptacle must be located in the compartment with the motor, you cannot run a flexible cord through a wall per 400.8. The tub installation must allow access to the receptacle through an access door or removable panel.
 
jeff43222 said:
...where I'm planning on mounting the receptacle. ...
Click to expand...

Why even mount it?
You can let the outlet "float" in that area...if you put it in a "bad" spot, just move it ~ no tools required :)
 
georgestolz said:
Cough cough cough 314.23 cough cough...hack...cough... :D
Click to expand...


...be that as it may...have you ever tried to replace a mounted recept. under one of these things???
You need a long-armed contorsonist to perform that feat - let's not forget that the motor might need servicing as well as ANY of the MANY fittings under there.
Good luck mounting a device under some of these tubs AND still allowing access to service other parts.

I have 90+ "floaters" that have passed inspection(in one building) right now :)
 
"Floaters" wouldn't fly in Colorado where George and I work. I have my crews leave the wire long and stubbed into area at rough time, then pull the wire out of the tub acces at trim, install the receptacle and plate using a front nail style box, then re-insert through tub opening and screw to the nearest stud. This allows the reverse action to occur if you need to get that receptacle back out of the box. We might get away with this on occasion, but only if the inspector was having a busy day and decided not to look under the tub.
 
I had the rough-in inspection today, and the inspector immediately went looking for the ground lug on the motor. He asked me about it, and I mentioned how the plumbing is all plastic. That ended that.

As for the receptacle, I'm actually mounting it just outside where I envision the access panel to be. It's where the homeowner wants it, and the inspector was fine with it. One more green tag (actually, they're yellow here) for Jeff! :D
 
Jljohnson said:
I have my crews leave the wire long and stubbed into area at rough time, then pull the wire out of the tub acces at trim, install the receptacle and plate using a front nail style box, then re-insert through tub opening and screw to the nearest stud. This allows the reverse action to occur if you need to get that receptacle back out of the box.
Click to expand...
1-Adam -12
1-Adam -12...
We have a 334.30 (320.30, 330.30...depending on cable type) in progress...
Please head North to Colorado...
Suspect is described as a male driving a white van ....
Over.

a12-1s.jpg
 
iwire said:
Sorry Celt, I agree with George about this one.

No floaters.

300.11(A)
Click to expand...

I'm not debating the floating issue...simply stating I have a multitude of them that have passed inspection from a rather tough inspector.

If the EI wanted to red sticker the install (and he would be right), I would mount them rather than debate the merits of allowing another trade free access for service at the expense of a non-compliant electrical install.
 
Jljohnson said:
"Floaters" wouldn't fly in Colorado where George and I work.
Click to expand...
Now, hang on a second, Jim. There's a kook in Longmont who actually requires the box to be floating. He will fail it if it's not. We argued until we were blue in the face, and eventually capitulated.
rolleyes.gif


It actually came back to bite one of my co-workers in the fanny, because he got accustomed to the practice being required in Longmont, and was wiring a house in Firestone and forgot where he was and floated it. CIA failed the house, the GC was awestruck that we would perform such a "stupid installation" until I explained the backstory to him. :D

I like the reversible method. I will have to steal that. :)

Bob, great reference. Mine wasn't half as clear as yours.
image003.gif
 
As a sort of compromise between the float/ no float we use the type of box where you screw the bracket to the face of a stud. We'll run the wire down one stud and back up leaving last staple a little loose. It at least allows someone to unscrew the box and move it if necessary. Either to access motor or receptacle.
 
When he says all the plumbing does he mean the supply as well, here in the Peoples Republic of Massachusetts there has not been a significant change to plastic plumbing yet,.. at least not in my little conner. If there is metallic water pipe there should be a bonding wire to it from the motor.

floaters are gross.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top