Grounding

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MR. S

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OK, I land a 15 amp 14-2 switch loop into a metal box, and a 12-2 dead end for a 20 amp receptacle, I know i have to tail a #12 to the box (250.96), and I know I need to splice my grounds together (250.148). Do I need a #12 tail to my switch? P.S. I am still in the 2011 NEC Thanks, MR. S.
 
See 404.9(B)(1)

404.9 Provisions for General-Use Snap Switches.

(B) Grounding. Snap switches, including dimmer and similar
control switches, shall be connected to an equipment
grounding conductor and shall provide a means to connect
metal faceplates to the equipment grounding conductor,
whether or not a metal faceplate is installed. Snap switches
shall be considered to be part of an effective ground-fault
current path if either of the following conditions is met:
(1) The switch is mounted with metal screws to a metal box
or metal cover that is connected to an equipment grounding
conductor or to a nonmetallic box with integral means
for connecting to an equipment grounding conductor.
 
He answered your question. You don't need either when you have a metal box and the metal yokes of the switch are bonded to it via the mounting screws.
 
As Paul stated, pigtail not required here.

But if you wish to install one:

250.122 Size of Equipment Grounding Conductors.
(A) General. Copper, aluminum, or copper-clad aluminum
equipment grounding conductors of the wire type shall not
be smaller than shown in Table 250.122, but in no case shall
they be required to be larger than the circuit conductors supplying
the equipment.
 
He answered your question. You don't need either when you have a metal box and the me

He answered your question. You don't need either when you have a metal box and the me

You do if they sheet rock
 
MR. S said:
You do if they sheet rock
Click to expand...

The two 6-32 screws are all that's required with or without sheetrock. If you choose to use a bonding jumper than it's sized according to the OCPD ahead of the circuit conductors on the switch.
 
infinity said:
The two 6-32 screws are all that's required with or without sheetrock. If you choose to use a bonding jumper than it's sized according to the OCPD ahead of the circuit conductors on the switch.
Click to expand...

Article 250.146(B) states contact devices or yokes need to be of the self grounding type for flush type boxes, so if your switch is not of the self grounding type, you need a jumper from the box to the yoke.
 
250.146 Connecting Receptacle Grounding Terminal to Box.

250.146 Connecting Receptacle Grounding Terminal to Box.

MR. S said:
Article 250.146(B) states contact devices or yokes need to be of the self grounding type for flush type boxes, so if your switch is not of the self grounding type, you need a jumper from the box to the yoke.
Click to expand...

That section is for receptacle outlets not for snap switches.
There have been a number of threads regarding this matter but conclusion is if the ears of a switch rest rigidly on wall and are connected with 2 6/32 screws thats enough for grounding.
 
darekelec said:
That section is for receptacle outlets not for snap switches.
There have been a number of threads regarding this matter but conclusion is if the ears of a switch rest rigidly on wall and are connected with 2 6/32 screws thats enough for grounding.
Click to expand...

I agree no self grounding requirement for snap switches. Switches and receptacles have different requirements.
 
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