It really depends on your room layout, I say that in respects to working area around the walls best might be a minimum of five
feet apart. If available you could use a blank wall and stand up fake wall with a few inches of gap.
If space is limited in the shop you could put a spaced of 6? between the two walls and have sets of walls verse blades of walls.
If you make a dual wall, be sure to change the stud spacing layout as so the studs don?t align from either side. Of course you
realize that most tapes come pre-marked with stub spacing marked on the belt tape measure.
I would drill the concrete floor and use concrete drop 3/8? anchors for your toe board with threaded rods, nuts and washers.
You could brace the frame to the ceiling bar joist, I?m going to assume there exposed already. Bang down the end of a ?? emt
ten foot stick and drill a hole in it to attached the top header and attach to the underside of the bar joist, with a beam clamp
with a threaded hole. I?d use 2? wood screws for the vertical framing members instead of nails that way removal later will be clearer.
M.O.
Things I?d do to the framing, I put in a few mid framing members, and explain that they exist in the real world and in a lot of
old houses. I?d put in a framing member for hall light or even bathroom vanity light. Granted a lot can be done with extension bars, some will not be used so the electrician gets to play carpenter it just depends on the job!
I?d also lecture on door framing, that?s sometimes attention has to be give to the exact door splash framing (finish work) just for
a door frame. Huge door framing is the latest craze up to 6? can really ruin someone?s day. Sometimes there is no finish framing
around the door opening, but in no case should the light switch be beyond a forearm reach, e.g., elbow to palm. I?ve even made
the crew set up the same distance when doing office building, it looks better and everything the same room to room.
Hope that helps
