Heatilator Fire place

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jmsbrush

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Location
Central Florida
I have been doing some work in an older home, 70's I think. In the middle of the room there is a fire place. Its a back to back unit. So basically there are two fire places back to back. The brand is Heatilator and its called Zero clearance.

Now these fire places are surrounded by brick on the out side and has fire brick on the inside ,where the fire is. Then from there, It goes into metal ducts which go up and out through the roof.

I went in the attic and looked down at the ducts. I have a clearance from the brick to the metal duct down at the part where the fire would be about 6"
. Where it transitions in to the round duct I have well over a foot.

So here's the question. The home owner wants two receptacles on each side of the fire place. The sides where there is no Flew. She wants to put two small tables with lamps on them.

Can I drop 2 pieces of romex down and drill a hole in the brick and surface mount two Recept's?
I was told that there is not much heat down there because of the design being zero clearance and the fire brick. That basically the metal ducts and cover that you see when you are looking at it while you're in the attic is just bringing the smoke up and out.

Sorry for rambling. I'm in Florida,and not to many fire places.
 
jmsbrush said:
So here's the question. The home owner wants two receptacles on each side of the fire place. The sides where there is no Flew. She wants to put two small tables with lamps on them.

That's not a question.:grin:

Can I drop 2 pieces of romex down and drill a hole in the brick and surface mount two Recept's?

Now that's a question.

Jim, there should be no issue with that although I would try to recess the box in the brick. Use a hammer drill and drill the perimeter. Nicer job IMO.
 
Dennis Alwon said:
That's not a question.:grin:



Now that's a question.

Jim, there should be no issue with that although I would try to recess the box in the brick. Use a hammer drill and drill the perimeter. Nicer job IMO.

Thank you Dennis, I just didn't want to do anything that might cause a fire. Sometimes I get very paranoid. Yes I agree with you , it would look nicer. I quoted the 2 recepts for $400.00 surface mount. I'll see if she would be willing to go with the other at a higher price.:wink:
 
You willl have to determine if the temp inside the chimney is above the rating of the wire. I have seen wire melt on hot water pipes that were cranked to 180*. How about floor outlets? Is it on slab?
 
quogueelectric said:
You willl have to determine if the temp inside the chimney is above the rating of the wire. I have seen wire melt on hot water pipes that were cranked to 180*. How about floor outlets? Is it on slab?
Yeah its on a slab, and they just had the floors done with some type of beautiful wood.
 
quogueelectric said:
You willl have to determine if the temp inside the chimney is above the rating of the wire. I have seen wire melt on hot water pipes that were cranked to 180*. How about floor outlets? Is it on slab?

There is no way the temp inside the chimney chase will be that hot with a zero clearance flue. I would not worry about it.
 
Dennis Alwon said:
There is no way the temp inside the chimney chase will be that hot with a zero clearance flue. I would not worry about it.
Dennis the zero clearance flue has some type of ventilation built in correct?
that dissipates the heat?
 
jmsbrush said:
Dennis the zero clearance flue has some type of ventilation built in correct?
that dissipates the heat?

I don't think so I think it is just a triple walled flue but I am not certain. I have never seen a ventilation built in to one.
 
Dennis Alwon said:
I don't think so I think it is just a triple walled flue but I am not certain. I have never seen a ventilation built in to one.
I don't even know what that means lol. Like I said I have now experience with fire places. Its just not a very common thing here in the south. I do trust you're op though and I will install them next week. :grin:
 
jmsbrush said:
I don't even know what that means lol. Like I said I have now experience with fire places. Its just not a very common thing here in the south. I do trust you're op though and I will install them next week. :grin:

Usually the metal flue pipe has three walls with an air space between them. The heat is dissipated thru each walls airspace. Perhaps that's the ventilation you meant.
 
I put a zero clearance flue in for my fireplace about 30 years ago and as I recall even though it was called "zero clearance" you needed to keep it at least 1" away from combustible items. This was a Heatitor brand, but the flue was "solid pack". A stainless liner with about 2" of insulation and an outer galvenized steel jacket.
 
haven't worked with flues for years

haven't worked with flues for years

but , the best i remember, in triple wall, heat rising in the flue heats the adjacent chamber which also rises and draws outside air down the outermost chamber which in turn circulates up next to the heated chamber and so on.

forgive these grey cells sometimes they are all befuddled...JMSO
 
Dennis Alwon said:
Usually the metal flue pipe has three walls with an air space between them. The heat is dissipated thru each walls airspace. Perhaps that's the ventilation you meant.


Dennis,

I think most flue pipes are only 2 layers. The idea being the inner layer heats quickly and helps the hot air draft out. Down here is SC, that is what they install with prefab fireplaces.

c2500
 
don_resqcapt19 said:
I put a zero clearance flue in for my fireplace about 30 years ago and as I recall even though it was called "zero clearance" you needed to keep it at least 1" away from combustible items. This was a Heatitor brand, but the flue was "solid pack". A stainless liner with about 2" of insulation and an outer galvenized steel jacket.




I was just looking through the 2006 IRC, and the 1 inch rule is for masonry fire places. They refer to the manufacturer for refab chimneys. I am still getting the hang of the 06, so I have only found the statement that refers you to the manufacturer. (we switched to 06 on July 1.) I would suggest going to the manufacturer's web site and find out their reccomended clearances from combustibles.

c2500
 
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I just looked at the original instructions that came with my fireplace flue. They call for a 2" clearance from any combustible construction. They had a metal fire stop/spacer that was used when you went through a floor, ceiling or roof framing.
 
don_resqcapt19 said:
I just looked at the original instructions that came with my fireplace flue. They call for a 2" clearance from any combustible construction. They had a metal fire stop/spacer that was used when you went through a floor, ceiling or roof framing.
Now you are talking sence here I cant tell you how many electricians I see just slash wires down the flue chase because it is easy. It makes me sick.
 
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