Help with a simple wiring diagram

[JoeNorm]

I am installing a spot ERV, much like a fan.

I am not too familiar with wiring diagrams but this one is pretty simple. Looks like unit gets wired direct to power than there are other wires run for switching.

My question is what wire would you use for the switch portion? I could use 14-3 but I am wondering if there is something more appropriate here. See link to diagram.

http://www.ntsupply.com/files/products/FV04VE1Wiring.pdf

Thanks!

 

[Ainsley Whyte]

I am installing a spot ERV, much like a fan.

I am not too familiar with wiring diagrams but this one is pretty simple. Looks like unit gets wired direct to power than there are other wires run for switching.

My question is what wire would you use for the switch portion? I could use 14-3 but I am wondering if there is something more appropriate here. See link to diagram.

http://www.ntsupply.com/files/products/FV04VE1Wiring.pdf

Thanks!

My friend look at the diagram main switch is in series with Live wire as shown just a matter of switching on and off the power
Hope i understand you correctly.

 

[JoeNorm]

So what type of wire would be appropriate for yellow, orange and blue wires?

 

[ptonsparky]

Yes, a 14/3 will work to two single pole switches.

unless of course, it comes with its own switching

 

[ptonsparky]

So what type of wire would be appropriate for yellow, orange and blue wires?

Reidentify them as you need. Tape.

 

[synchro]

The two switches for selecting standby and Hi/Lo fan speed go to the control board only, and so I suspect they are very low power, but I didn't see anything specific in the spec sheets about this. The maximum fan power is 24 watts and it's supplied through the separate L-N terminals as in the schematic above. So 14 AWG is certainly adequate for the switch wiring.

 

[480sparky]

Install a conduit/raceway and use orange, yellow and blue conductors.

 

[Little Bill]

It appears to already have a switch for the main. You don't need to do anything with the yellow, orange, and blue wires, those are control wires already in the assembly. If you wanted to add a main switch, just wire your hot/black line wire to a switch. But this looks unnecessary since it appears to already have a main.

 

[kwired]

Could just install appropriate jumpers if you will never change CFM and put switch in supply line if desired to have a wall control.

 

[LarryFine]

My question is what wire would you use for the switch portion? I could use 14-3 but I am wondering if there is something more appropriate here. See link to diagram.

This depends more on the physical requirements of the environment more than on the electrical needs.

What wiring methods are appropriate for the space where the wiring will be run? In wall or exposed, etc?

 

[Hv&Lv]

I didn’t look good, but is the control wiring 120v? I know the source wiring is..
I don’t know what’s on the back side of that circuit board..
If it isn’t just use thermostat wire

 

[Little Bill]

He doesn't need any control wiring. It shows all that self-contained. Only thing needed is power to the switch, which shows is also present. As I said earlier, you could add another main switch if you want.

 

[controlled]

He doesn't need any control wiring. It shows all that self-contained. Only thing needed is power to the switch, which shows is also present. As I said earlier, you could add another main switch if you want.

Its not all self contained. The hi/low , and standby shows as being a wall switch. Typically thay would be 24 volt, but i dont see a transforer on the schematic. Looks like line voltage to a pair of switches. I would run 14/3 from unit to switch box and install a double switch

 

[Hv&Lv]

Its not all self contained. The hi/low , and standby shows as being a wall switch. Typically thay would be 24 volt, but i dont see a transforer on the schematic. Looks like line voltage to a pair of switches. I would run 14/3 from unit to switch box and install a double switch

That’s what I was stating regarding not being able to see the back side of the circuit board. An XF or SMPS could be back there for all we know.

 

[JoeNorm]

Yes, they sell a double switch for this which I have.

The idea is that the main switch is On/Off and the second switch will do Hi/Low

 

[Little Bill]

Its not all self contained. The hi/low , and standby shows as being a wall switch. Typically thay would be 24 volt, but i dont see a transforer on the schematic. Looks like line voltage to a pair of switches. I would run 14/3 from unit to switch box and install a double switch

Guess I need new glasses, I did not notice it said wall switch. But I was mainly looking at the PDF the OP posted a link to.

 

[LarryFine]

To repeat myself:

This depends more on the physical requirements of the environment than on the electrical needs.

What wiring methods are appropriate for the space where the wiring will be run? In wall or exposed, etc?

 

[hbiss]

Its not all self contained. The hi/low , and standby shows as being a wall switch. Typically thay would be 24 volt, but i dont see a transforer on the schematic. Looks like line voltage to a pair of switches. I would run 14/3 from unit to switch box and install a double switch

You wouldn't see a transformer in that wiring diagram if it's on the PC board. So we don't know. What does the instructions say for that wiring? Line voltage or LV?

If in doubt use 14/3 NM.

-Hal

 

[pjones]

Product install manual, wiring diagram, promotional materials, and specs mention nothing about low voltage. Everything says 120v

From their promotional brochure...

“Wiring
Power consumption is 23 Watts at 40 CFM with a power rating of 120/60 V/Hz. Bring house power to the unit junction box and use 3 wires to connect the 2 switches.”

Using that I would suggest using whatever is rated for 120v to be used with your specific application. As Larry has mentioned, it will depend on your job site requirements, but looks like you should be using 14/3 for whatever type wire you use.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[JoeNorm]

Thanks, yes this is new construction and the walls are still open. NM it is, thanks all.