honeywell (never go for the easy stuff)

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cschmid

cschmid

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Northern cold country
I am looking for technical info now..I have called honeywell tech line which took an act of congress to get number..then guy on other end was using same liteature I have..was not as much help as I wanted..so to any of you honeywell tech guys...Help...I have a couple of honeywell ML6984 valve actuators with 272630D positive feed cards attached..I am supose to beable to set the operation of this valve from 0 to 100% yet the info I have does not tell me the procedure any know where I can get the info..I am already registered with honeywell and I have these documents, no. 95c-10941 and 95c-10939 and one more not in my hand none of these have what I am looking for..I am hoping some of you can help me out..
 
The 6984 is an ordinary valve mod motor. The position feedback card is not required to make it work, but whatever process you're using it for might want to know the valve position for some reason. What you lack is a 30wire controller. One simple controller would be one of their series 60 controls like the T6031
 
good morning marc and everyone..I am running with the honeywell round thermostate heat only..what it is we have one pump and 2 zones we just replaced some vintage 1950 honey well controlers when one went bad..we are suppose to beable to regulate how far open we open the valve.like on the south side of the building we only need the valve to open 1/2 way when we got both zones calling.always want the north one to open all the way..it say we can control the amount the valve actuator opens but I have no info on the process..just wondering if anyone has had any experience in these types of valves..I have set the zones at different temps as of now when they both open all the way, one zone starves (does not get much flow)..
 
Oh, I see. You can just wire in a 135 ohm pot between the R,W,andY terminals on the mod motor to do that, or would you rather use your wall stat to do that? Let me know, and I'll draw you up the connection diagram.

You say you have two zones, but one pump. Is there anything doing your zoning besides these mod motors, like zone valves? Are you using Series 80 wall stats (like T87) or Series 20 wall stats (SPDT)? What you need to do is pretty simple, but I need to know what you got to let you know how to make it all work.

It is safe to say that you can send back that feedback board you got. I thought for a minute when I saw you had that part that this might be part of some ellaborate control system.

EDIT... I just noticed that your mod motor doesn't have 130 ohm input. Bummer. If you'd have gotten the 7984, life would be easier. You might need that board after all.
 
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marc so you are saying if I use 135 ohm pot on the controller when the thermostat calls for heat it will only open to what the pot has it set for..I only use the mod motors for zone control..it is old system and piping is 2" that is why no zone valves..I am not limited to use the series 20 stats..I can buy the ones you listed..no all the technical info you come up with here is this in big book from Honeywell or just of their web site..I must need to research this more tomarrow..I only got about 15 projects on the go and lost my helper last week..busy boy I am worked until 9pm last night hope thats not the case again today..
 
cschmid said:
marc so you are saying if I use 135 ohm pot on the controller when the thermostat calls for heat it will only open to what the pot has it set for..
Click to expand...
That's what I thought, until I noticed the model again. Your model is not that way. If you'd have gotten the 7984 instead of the 6984, then you could do that.

Your mod motor is "floating" control. Let me explain.

You hook a 24 volt transformer to the terminals in your motor marked T5 and T6.

When you make contact between R and B on the mod motor, the stem will go down for as long of a period as that contact is made. When you make contact between R and W, the stem will go back up for as long as the contact is made. You could use a Series 20 thermostat to work this motor, but that would be "full open" on a call for heat, since the series 20 stat will maintain contact between R and B on a call for heat. That's why I recommended a "floating" type thermostat, like the T6984A, since it will constantly modulate the valve up and down a bit until a happy medium is found that will maintain the space temperature. These floating thermostats don't maintain the contact. It wil only make contact for the stem to go up or down for as long as it needs to to let throttle the valve in the position required to heat properly. On a really cold day, it might have the valve near fully open, and on a mild day, it might just have the valve cracked open.

That board you got is more for using this valve on a DDC system.
 
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Here's a pretty picture, just for you:

ml6984.jpg
 
damn I hate this machine just lost what I typed to post..that is basically what I have but no floating controller..I thought the 4-milliamp feed back was so I could manipulate it and control the mod opening position..so even with a a floating controller this will not work..So may can you tell me did you do some Honeywell training or do you have a good technical reference manual I can get my hands on..can you also explain a ddc system for me..I should just hook up a dang plc to it write a program and walk away but I know there is a better way..I am not against spending the cash to do it correctly the end result is what I am after the last time they had a problem the solution they used was to plumb in separate motors for each zone..
 
A DDC system is a digital control system. That board of yours just basically relates to a DDC system the actual position of the valve.
 
ahh said the blind man..Okay I am bummed out now guess I can kiss my bonus good bye..as I cleanup this screw up..back to the white board and get some prices on new stuff..must do job correctly I think I have some ebay materials..naw just a new challange can not give the cash so easy..it is hard to keep your focus when your in the swamp filled with alligators when the objective is draining the swamp..
 
Why can't you jsut use the floating thermostat with that motor you already have, and let the thermostat decide the valve position? Is there some reason that the vavle must only be 1/2 way open?
 
I actually will check that out..hot water heat is not fast heat and when it is cold north west wind off lake when 50 below zero need to make sure north zone gets most heat regardless..I am very grateful for the education on this mod valve..I have already had complaints I adjusted the north stat higher to compensate..the stat you pointed out I have not read all of it but it shows some calculations that actually make it sound very appealing..:smile: :grin: I live in Norther Mn..where the temps in the winter are worse than Alaska..in fact alaska has been warmer while we are enjoying Gods gift of sterilization by cold..
 
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