How Long To Strip Wire For Receptacles? A video tale of woe

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JFletcher

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I was looking for what is "standard" for screw wrapped terminals. Deciding to bypass the expertise of this forum for a moment (to conduct an experiment). I checked Google first, which lead me to youtube. If a picture is worth a thousand words, then a video must be gold, right? :happyno:

First up, "ExpertVillage". Surely by the name I'll get some "expert" tips here! Unfortunately, this two minute long video should be titled "How to Burn Down Your House"


There is absolutely nothing right about it. F-

Next up, "VideoJoeKnows". After 6 painful minutes, all I've learned is how to improperly connect the grounding wires together:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2c6QaH4XBYE

F-

Still undaunted, I click on another video, this time by a "DIY" type guy. 3:30 minutes for a COMPLETE TUTORIAL on how to strip electrical wire! How can I go wrong? by watching it!:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M_oMhBY-J_w

Inch to 1.5", tho our friend here is most likely confusing metric units of cm to in (that's an awfully short looking inch). Wrong tool: 'I need to strip wire, so I'll use this thing marked CUTTER'. Individual conductors are visibly crimped by his methods.

F

Well, I do have my inch to inch and a half strip length that I was looking for. Still, a bit uncomfortable, I figure I should get a second opinion:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iM0tGSlUBwU

titled "Plug Wiring For Dummies - How To Wire A Home Electrical Plug Outlet". Whew, because I was feeling particularly stupid having watched the previous 3 videos. This video is 7:30 long, and in that time I learn:

~ How to cut NM cable with a pocketknife in a dangerous manner
~ How to strip NM cable with same pocketknife in a same dangerous manner
~ Highly dumbed down terms, like "stuff" and "thing"
~ Color codes (white to silver, black to gold) - dont need any more than that!
~ Strip gauge...too long, so cut em down to ???, like 3/8"...and wrap around screws with insulation under the screws to boot. Also learn how to ground a receptacle to a PVC box!

Would have given a C- for technical, but the improper ground method #1 safety issues drop the overall to an F.

So, seeing anywhere from ~3/8" strip length to 1.5", I figure I'll give one more video a go:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UdkCiCqNz2g

6 minutes. 3/4" strip length. Clear, concise, technically correct. B.

(didnt know before I previewed the video limit per post was 1; only the first video is linked).

It's scary not only how much bad information is out there, but that people have taken the time to record and post it for others to see. Thankfully we have this forum, which, had I used from the get-go, would have had a battery of correct information posted in short order.
 
I never really thought about how much wire you need to wrap around screw terminals. It just comes from experience. You need enough bare wire to wrap the free end to the 9 o'clock position at least. Insulation on the wire should be up to the back of the receptacle. Its just like when I crank my truck windows up or down, I don't think which way do I go I just do it.
 
Usually there is only a strip gauge for push in or push in and screw down type rcpt.

I like about 7/8" maybe a bit shorter. Use the wire bending whole in your strippers to make a nice u shaped bend. Place under the screw in a clockwise rotation. Use plier end of strippers to close the bend around the screw. Tighten down screw while holding wire in position. Make sure no insulation is under screw and insulation should be in place where the conductor protrudes past the back of the rcpt.

Now I am going to get some popcorn and watch these videos.

Edit: how did you sit through that? I am already banging my head against the wall.
 
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MD84 said:
Now I am going to get some popcorn and watch these videos.

Edit: how did you sit through that? I am already banging my head against the wall.
Click to expand...

There is no law against these guys demonstrating bad practice and giving bad advice out of ignorance- but if it's any consolation there is also no law against giving the correct advice/info in the comment section for these videos.:D


3/4" or so for screw terminals and around 5/8" for devices w/ cp's is preference here.
 
The only thing good I can say about the guy wiring the receptacle is that he had the decency to tighten down the unused screws. The back stab guys usually just push the wires into the back, screw it into the box and move onto the next one. As far as taping around the terminals I don't see the need unless you have a metal box.

Very informative videos. Now we know why HO's burn their houses down. :cool:
 
MD84 said:
Usually there is only a strip gauge for push in or push in and screw down type rcpt.

I like about 7/8" maybe a bit shorter. Use the wire bending whole in your strippers to make a nice u shaped bend. Place under the screw in a clockwise rotation. Use plier end of strippers to close the bend around the screw. Tighten down screw while holding wire in position. Make sure no insulation is under screw and insulation should be in place where the conductor protrudes past the back of the rcpt.

Now I am going to get some popcorn and watch these videos.

Edit: how did you sit through that? I am already banging my head against the wall.
Click to expand...

Pretty much how I do it tho I push the wire loop against the raised tabs by the screws on the side of the receptacle to close in the loop of wire.

Btw, the second video is part 1 of FIVE. Yes, it takes him a complete half an hour to wire the outlet, and they never show him doing the terminations.

How did I sit thru it? Popcorn, pretended it was a B rate horror movie. :lol:
 
goldstar said:
The only thing good I can say about the guy wiring the receptacle is that he had the decency to tighten down the unused screws. The back stab guys usually just push the wires into the back, screw it into the box and move onto the next one. As far as taping around the terminals I don't see the need unless you have a metal box.

Very informative videos. Now we know why HO's burn their houses down. :cool:
Click to expand...

I never back stab, tighten unused terminals, or tape devices(metal box or not).
 
John120/240 said:
I never really thought about how much wire you need to wrap around screw terminals. It just comes from experience. You need enough bare wire to wrap the free end to the 9 o'clock position at least. Insulation on the wire should be up to the back of the receptacle. Its just like when I crank my truck windows up or down, I don't think which way do I go I just do it.
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Shouldn't that be the 3 o'clock position for right hand threaded screws?
 
jumper said:
I never back stab, tighten unused terminals, or tape devices(metal box or not).
Click to expand...
So, in other words, what you're saying is that you really don't care about the next guy or HO who comes along that works on that receptacle live. Did I get that right or am I reading too much into this ?:?;)
 
don_resqcapt19 said:
I guess if you are holding the device upside down when you are terminating it.
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If you hold it with the face of the receptacle towards you, the wire comes in at 12 o'clock and you wrap towards 9 o'clock. If you hold it with the face of the receptacle away from you, the wire comes in at 6 o'clock and you wrap towards 3 o'clock. This all assumes that you consider 12 o'clock always away from you and 6 o'clock always closest to you. There are of course an infinite number of orientations with infinite clock references. Myself, I'm more likely to hold the receptacle in my right hand with the face to the right, but that's me.
 
K8MHZ said:
Have you ever had a problem working on a receptacle because it wasn't taped up and/or the unused screws weren't turned in?
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It's not so much having a problem with a receptacle as it is with workmanship and caring. There's no Code reference that states you have to torque down the unused screws, or that you cannot use receptacle stabs (unless you're using #12)' or that you should tape the terminals when installing into a metal JB. I just take every safety precaution I can during an installation, not just for myself but also for the next guy.
 
goldstar said:
So, in other words, what you're saying is that you really don't care about the next guy or HO who comes along that works on that receptacle live. Did I get that right or am I reading too much into this ?:?;)
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If someone wishes to work live behind me I fail to see why I should waste time making it easier.

I install a safe and code compliant job and I am done.
 
jumper said:
If someone wishes to work live behind me I fail to see why I should waste time making it easier.

I install a safe and code compliant job and I am done.
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I made it a point to say that it wasn't a Code compliance issue but easier ??? I don't think it's a question of making it easier. Wasting time ??? Torquing in 2 screws on a receptacle - really ??? If you're saving that much $$ you obviously took the job too cheap IMHO.
 
jumper said:
If someone wishes to work live behind me I fail to see why I should waste time making it easier.

I install a safe and code compliant job and I am done.
Click to expand...

:thumbsup:. If the person coming behind you is an electrician then he/she should know the risks of not turning off the breaker or should know how to remove a non taped device safely while live.

As for protecting ho's, it's why we have faceplates- if the ho is ignorant/willing enough to work on a hot receptacle to begin with, then what stops them from being shocked anyway when they remove the tape?:)
 
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