how to 3-way 208v highbay Lts

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can this be done witout a contactor. I will have 2 - 2pole breakers feeding them and seems like I would have to have 2 relay coils doing it that way.
 
When I wire high-bays (or low-bays, for that matter), unless it's just a very few of them, I always do the switching with contactors. Keeps the voltage drop low, and lets you use little, low-current conductors to the switches. They just switch the coil(s) of the contactor(s).

If you choose this method, do a favor for the next guy. Install your contactors in a "normal" place, where they might be found without a treasure map, Green Lantern secret decoder ring, and 4 phone calls to the Psychic Hotline. Label some of your wiring at the contactor, so the next guy knows what conductors go to what switches.
 
transman2 said:
can this be done witout a contactor. I will have 2 - 2pole breakers feeding them and seems like I would have to have 2 relay coils doing it that way.

Can it be done?


Sure.

Will it be NEC compliant?

No.
 
transman2 said:
can this be done witout a contactor. I will have 2 - 2pole breakers feeding them and seems like I would have to have 2 relay coils doing it that way.

Just get a 4 pole contactor -- one coil
 
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transman2 said:
Does this mean I will have to have 2 contacors
Not unless you like it that way. Lighting contactors are available up to 12 pole normally, and you can get general purpose contactors in 4-pole quite easily. Be advised that a control system is not required to break every hot wire, if you choose to go that route. You can break one hot of each circuit, and use a 2pole contactor.
 
mdshunk said:
You can break one hot of each circuit, and use a 2pole contactor.

Marc he can not do that for the same reason he can not do that with the three ways.

410.54(B) prevents it.
 
iwire said:
Marc he can not do that for the same reason he can not do that with the three ways.

410.54(B) prevents it.
Thanks, Bob, for that quick correction. I've never done it that way, but it seems that 410.54(B) is specific to HID fixtures. Any other type of 2-pole load, and it would be okay. I guess this is a safety issue, related to maintenance and repair.
 
Marc I would not do it that way either....but on the other hand we often used SP Thermostats with 208 / 240 baseboard heat.

Kind of a personal double standard.:roll: :-?
 
iwire said:
Marc I would not do it that way either....but on the other hand we often used SP Thermostats with 208 / 240 baseboard heat.

Kind of a personal double standard.:roll: :-?
I guess. I use DP stats on baseboard heat, because I've never seen a SP stat with a marked "off" position. Lacking that marking, you need a disco within sight of the heater.
 
mdshunk said:
I guess. I use DP stats on baseboard heat, because I've never seen a SP stat with a marked "off" position. Lacking that marking, you need a disco within sight of the heater.

What section requires a disconnecting means within sight of a baseboard heater?
 
iwire said:
How about 419.(B)(1)? [sic]
424.19(B)(1)

Sure, but the AHJ's down my way consider that a breaker "capable of being locked in the open position" must have the lockout adaptor installed on the breaker. Line voltage double-pole stats are nearly 5 bucks a piece cheaper at the supply house anyhow, so that's an easy decision to make.

I'm not that passionate about the matter either route a guy goes, truthfully.
 
What I suspect Marc is that when I was doing this the AHJs where not pushing LOTO as hard as they do now.

If I was doing condos now I might find I have to change my old ways.
 
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