How to wire a cinderblock wall furred out?

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Freshta

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Raleigh, NC
Hey everyone,

I have a split level home that I have to bring up to code. In the basement, the walls are cinder block topped with a couple rows of brick and then the floor joists. I don't see any good way of getting my cables down into the voids of the block without major work. Was thinking of running MC cable down the face of the block and tapcon a 4x4 box with mudring. Anyway, the question I have is about the furring strips. I need to coordinate with the carpenter about it. In order to keep the 1.25" of space from the face/edge , will he need to install 2" furring strips for his drywall? He and the homeowner are resisting me on this. They want standard furring strips which I believe are 1.5".

Thanks,

Tony
 
A standard 1x2 furring strip is closer to 3/4" thick. Coordinate with the carpenter. Ask him for the dimension of whatever he's going to install including furring strip and sheetrock or whatever he's putting over it. Preferably in an e-mail so you can refer to it later in your defense if need be.
 
Freshta said:
Hey everyone,

I have a split level home that I have to bring up to code. In the basement, the walls are cinder block topped with a couple rows of brick and then the floor joists. I don't see any good way of getting my cables down into the voids of the block without major work. Was thinking of running MC cable down the face of the block and tapcon a 4x4 box with mudring. Anyway, the question I have is about the furring strips. I need to coordinate with the carpenter about it. In order to keep the 1.25" of space from the face/edge , will he need to install 2" furring strips for his drywall? He and the homeowner are resisting me on this. They want standard furring strips which I believe are 1.5".

Thanks,

Tony
Click to expand...

As Mouser said, stay away from the furring strips. But you only marginally mention the construction. if there are furring strips and sheetrock then you can still us romex, just keep it away from the furring strips. If you have to run perpendicular to the furring strips, use nailpates.
 
OK thanks everyone. I believe he plans on using standard 5/8" drywall. I never thought to use romex because I was afraid that it could still get damaged if I just strapped it to the block. I did plan on staying centered between the strip and staying as far from them as possible. Has anyone here ran romex strapped to block like this with good results? Sure would save the home owner $$$ if I ran romex instead of MC.

Thanks
Tony
 
Freshta said:
... Has anyone here ran romex strapped to block like this with good results? Sure would save the home owner $$$ if I ran romex instead of MC.

Thanks
Tony
Click to expand...
Sure. Dottie has a new screw called a Wall Dog that works good in concrete block, use those and zip ties that have a built in eyelet and you'll have a good, productive day.
 
The 1.25" dimension is only from the edge of the furring strip and not the back of the drywall. If you know the layout of the furring strips just ensure that you're at least 1.25" away from the edge and you're good to go.
 
The Sheetrock is already installed right?

I would ask the customer if they are good with wiremold running around the room feeding the outlets.
 
iwire said:
The Sheetrock is already installed right?

I would ask the customer if they are good with wiremold running around the room feeding the outlets.
Click to expand...

In the OP he describes the block and brick and refers to the furring strips that they are going to have to install. I took that to mean it's an unfinished basement that's getting built out.
 
Freshta said:
OK thanks everyone. I believe he plans on using standard 5/8" drywall. I never thought to use romex because I was afraid that it could still get damaged if I just strapped it to the block. I did plan on staying centered between the strip and staying as far from them as possible. Has anyone here ran romex strapped to block like this with good results? Sure would save the home owner $$$ if I ran romex instead of MC.

Thanks
Tony
Click to expand...

Explain what your problems are and how much more it will cost if they don't use 2x2 furring strips (1.5" deep). This 1.5" depth allows you to use 4x4x1.5 boxes to gain needed volume and you put on mud ring according to thickness of drywall.

If they only go with 3/4" furring strips, you will need to spend more on labor chopping out block to get a hole to accept a deep enough box for the application. The extra wood for the thicker strips won't really cost that much and will take about the same labor to install.

If the wall surface is pretty irregular it may even be much faster for the builder to just build a stud wall instead of mounting and shimming all those furring strips, then you can just use nail on plastic boxes like you would on any other wood stud wall.
 
kwired said:
If the wall surface is pretty irregular it may even be much faster for the builder to just build a stud wall instead of mounting and shimming all those furring strips, then you can just use nail on plastic boxes like you would on any other wood stud wall.
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An easy way to build a wall that's not load bearing is to use metal studs ( you know the cheap light weight ones). They make plastic boxes and mud rings for those also, no nails just a couple of sheet rock or tech screws.

Metal studs are much straighter than wood.


I did a job once where another electrician told the GC that metal studs were not allowed for residential and I got the job at my price because I was not an idiot and the wall were allready up.
 
kwired said:
Explain what your problems are and how much more it will cost if they don't use 2x2 furring strips (1.5" deep). This 1.5" depth allows you to use 4x4x1.5 boxes to gain needed volume and you put on mud ring according to thickness of drywall.

If they only go with 3/4" furring strips, you will need to spend more on labor chopping out block to get a hole to accept a deep enough box for the application. The extra wood for the thicker strips won't really cost that much and will take about the same labor to install.

If the wall surface is pretty irregular it may even be much faster for the builder to just build a stud wall instead of mounting and shimming all those furring strips, then you can just use nail on plastic boxes like you would on any other wood stud wall.
Click to expand...

I've done a few by framing out by using a common 2x4 stud wall construction. Then the walls can be insulated as well. As adding a moisture barrier providing plenty of room for standard boxes and running NM-B. If you are doing the work make sure that to use been treated lumber where there framing may contact concrete which is probably the bottom plate as may be required by code.
Also you can install electric base board heaters with a thermostat which I have found to work quite well if the home has central forced air heating. Since lower levels have a relatively stable temperasture by simply turning up the thermostat when the area is to be used will quickly warm up the area without unbalancing the rest of the homes forced air heating. The area as also may require very little if any A/C.
 
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