hps lighting
- Thread starter fireryan
- Start date
- Status
mdshunk
Senior Member
- Location
- Right here.
The lamp is at the end of its life. That's what HPS lamps do. Replace it or you will be replacing the ballast too if you let it carry on like that for months.
Cow
Senior Member
- Location
- Eastern Oregon
- Occupation
- Electrician
I printed off a few of the troubleshooting pages a few months back, the table showing open circuit voltages for the different lamp types is very handy. A lot of lighting calls this time of year so it's good info to have.:smile:
fireryan said:
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480. Youve done it again!:wink:480sparky said:But wait! There's more! If you call in the next 30 minutes, we'll include a complete set of Chef's Choice Ginsu Knives, along with the Fluorescent Ballast Guide as our gift!.....
The knife can cut right through a tin can, and still stay sharp enough to create the thinnest tomato slices you've ever seen.
And the Fluorescent Ballast Guide will help you make more money on the job so you can afford all this stuff you're ordering!
Call now! Operators are standing by!
- Location
- Bremerton, Washington
- Occupation
- Master Electrician
HPS luminaire TS is pretty simple:
If the lamp cycles, the lamp is at end of life. Towards the end of life it takes more voltage, and the arc can not be maintained so it goes out, cools and restrikes. If this goes on the starter will be damaged.
You can check the ballast with a incandescent lamp, if it lights then the ballast is good.
If not the ballast, then its the starter.
If on a photocontrol, then get a shorting PE cap if twist lock.
I always use twist lock PEs, the button types only last a few years. I will install a twist lock adapter in a deep FS box.
So short the PE.
Replace the lamp first
Test the ballast
Check the starter.
If the lamp cycles, the lamp is at end of life. Towards the end of life it takes more voltage, and the arc can not be maintained so it goes out, cools and restrikes. If this goes on the starter will be damaged.
You can check the ballast with a incandescent lamp, if it lights then the ballast is good.
If not the ballast, then its the starter.
If on a photocontrol, then get a shorting PE cap if twist lock.
I always use twist lock PEs, the button types only last a few years. I will install a twist lock adapter in a deep FS box.
So short the PE.
Replace the lamp first
Test the ballast
Check the starter.
That process sounds more like a Marine sniper taking out a target. I prefer the Air Force approach: Lay down a wide path of destruction from 60,000 ft.
In other words, I replace the bulb, ballast, starter & igniter all in one fell swoop. In 10 minutes, I'm guaranteed a working fixture and one that will continue to function for the next two to three years.
Cow
Senior Member
- Location
- Eastern Oregon
- Occupation
- Electrician
I agree, a customer would definitely not be pleased if you charged them to just change a capacitor and then the ballast quit working shortly thereafter.
My system is pretty simple, half the time I don't even know what kind of light I'll be troubleshooting. With that in mind:
1. Remove bad bulb, check open circuit voltage, if no/low voltage, verify input power is correct and fixture is tapped up right.
2. Call for shop boy/parts house to deliver parts. Replace bulb and install new ballast kit if necessary.:wink:
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