With the disconnect closed, set your meter to millivolts. Check from the conductor material on the line side to the conductor material on the load side. See what millivolt reading you get. Compare the humming phase to the two good phases. The higher the millivolt reading, the more "resistive" the connection is from line to load. If you can stab the actual conductor material, before the lug, you'll be checking the line and load side conductor termination, the fuse blad termination, and the fuse internals in one swoop.
This test might not show anything, but then again, it might. If (for instance) you get 3 millivolts on A phase, 5 millivolts on C phase, and 78 millivolts on B phase, you'll know you've got at least one problem. It might not be the cause of the hum, but getting the B phase tightened up might solve it, and it will bring the FOP reading down.