Joe livewire
Member
My question is,why do some HID ballast require an igniter and some dont. And what is exactly taking place inside the igniter. Or what specific electrical function is the igniter performing.
igniters in some HID lighting.
- Thread starter Joe livewire
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robbietan
Senior Member
- Location
- Antipolo City
http://www.freepatentsonline.com/6091208.html
Abstract: An ignitor is provided to predictably and reliably start a conventional HID lamp, or to start or restart an HID lamp having a hot strike capability such as a high pressure xenon HPS lamp or similar lamp. The ignitor is configured to prevent the premature triggering of a semiconductor switch in a hot restrike circuit due to unwanted high voltage pulses generated by a conventional HID lamp starter circuit in the ignitor. An ignitor is provided that can be used with lag-type ballasts. Another ignitor is provided that can be used with a lead-type ballast which generates a DC bias across the ballast capacitor.
Abstract: An ignitor is provided to predictably and reliably start a conventional HID lamp, or to start or restart an HID lamp having a hot strike capability such as a high pressure xenon HPS lamp or similar lamp. The ignitor is configured to prevent the premature triggering of a semiconductor switch in a hot restrike circuit due to unwanted high voltage pulses generated by a conventional HID lamp starter circuit in the ignitor. An ignitor is provided that can be used with lag-type ballasts. Another ignitor is provided that can be used with a lead-type ballast which generates a DC bias across the ballast capacitor.
peteo
Senior Member
- Location
- Los Angeles
I tried to look on the web for a good article, but was astonished to find... nothing worthwhile. The major bulb and ballast makers no longer provide online articles, I could find bits here and there by Googling "HID probe start." I'll go over the basics, in very abbreviated form.
There are three main types of halide lamp in use, they work by striking an arc in a small vessel, the arc tube, inside the bulb. There is a noble gas in the tube with bits of metal which are energized to create light. The color is determined by the type of metal used, which determines the type of bulb. There are the mercury vapor, Metal Halide and High Pressure Sodium (HPS) types.
Many bulbs use phospor coatings to improve the color, and they all need some kind to filter out the harmful UV rays from the arcing. Mercury are the cheap bluish "street lamp" things, Metal Halide is what one finds in most factory/ store high bay fixtures, some with excellent color, and the dingy yellow of HPS (cheap apartment parking and street lights) is unmistakeable. There are various sizes and shapes, most outdoor lighting is one or another HID lamp.
To continue with the story of the arc tube, it is necessary to strike an arc and let the arc tube warm up. Strange colors and low light levels mean ten to fifteen minutes for most. The latest electronic ones are basically instant on but I'm trying to cover the basics of your question. Once the arc is started, a ballast is used to keep the voltage down, so they all have a ballast. Older ballasts are magnetic windings, newer ones are electronic and save electricity.
There are three ways the initial strike is made in the arc tube.
PROBE START Most mercury and 'regular' halides in the 175-1500 watt range have a built in starting aid, these are PROBE START and they do not need an ignitor. They have a switch inside which shuts the probe down after starting. These are always the least energy efficient and probe start halides are no longer permitted in California. 600 volt socket. 10 minute warm up.
PULSE START needs an ignitor outside the bulb to strike the arc. Most all MH types below 175 watts and all HPS types. 5000 volt socket to handle the blast from the ignitor. Five minute warm up.
CERAMIC & ELECTRONIC BALLAST halides. I'm lumping these (lamp, fixture designs) together because neither is your cheap off the shelf fixture. Ceramics are used in one case to form the arc tube into a more efficient and long lived pulse start design. The electronic ballasts are used with pulse start bulbs and have the same effect, with the latest ballasts allowing dimming and instant on capabilities - mainly for public buildings at the moment. A good electronic ballast on a 250-400 watt MH can save 100 watts per luminaire.
There may be some training available online, from a manufacturer site. Lightsearch.org has all the names on it. Let me know if you find something informative!
There are three main types of halide lamp in use, they work by striking an arc in a small vessel, the arc tube, inside the bulb. There is a noble gas in the tube with bits of metal which are energized to create light. The color is determined by the type of metal used, which determines the type of bulb. There are the mercury vapor, Metal Halide and High Pressure Sodium (HPS) types.
Many bulbs use phospor coatings to improve the color, and they all need some kind to filter out the harmful UV rays from the arcing. Mercury are the cheap bluish "street lamp" things, Metal Halide is what one finds in most factory/ store high bay fixtures, some with excellent color, and the dingy yellow of HPS (cheap apartment parking and street lights) is unmistakeable. There are various sizes and shapes, most outdoor lighting is one or another HID lamp.
To continue with the story of the arc tube, it is necessary to strike an arc and let the arc tube warm up. Strange colors and low light levels mean ten to fifteen minutes for most. The latest electronic ones are basically instant on but I'm trying to cover the basics of your question. Once the arc is started, a ballast is used to keep the voltage down, so they all have a ballast. Older ballasts are magnetic windings, newer ones are electronic and save electricity.
There are three ways the initial strike is made in the arc tube.
PROBE START Most mercury and 'regular' halides in the 175-1500 watt range have a built in starting aid, these are PROBE START and they do not need an ignitor. They have a switch inside which shuts the probe down after starting. These are always the least energy efficient and probe start halides are no longer permitted in California. 600 volt socket. 10 minute warm up.
PULSE START needs an ignitor outside the bulb to strike the arc. Most all MH types below 175 watts and all HPS types. 5000 volt socket to handle the blast from the ignitor. Five minute warm up.
CERAMIC & ELECTRONIC BALLAST halides. I'm lumping these (lamp, fixture designs) together because neither is your cheap off the shelf fixture. Ceramics are used in one case to form the arc tube into a more efficient and long lived pulse start design. The electronic ballasts are used with pulse start bulbs and have the same effect, with the latest ballasts allowing dimming and instant on capabilities - mainly for public buildings at the moment. A good electronic ballast on a 250-400 watt MH can save 100 watts per luminaire.
There may be some training available online, from a manufacturer site. Lightsearch.org has all the names on it. Let me know if you find something informative!
- Location
- Massachusetts
There is a ton of info at Advance Transformer.
Advance Transformer Literature Page
If you look through the list you can find this one,
HID Troubleshooting Guide (PDF)
it provides a lot of info along with troubleshooting.
There is also ABCs of HID Ballasts (PDF)
Advance Transformer Literature Page
If you look through the list you can find this one,
HID Troubleshooting Guide (PDF)
it provides a lot of info along with troubleshooting.
There is also ABCs of HID Ballasts (PDF)
Joe livewire
Member
Thank you for helping me understand what the purpose of the ignitor is.
- Status