goodstudent
New member
I have spent a great deal of time as a general contractor in residential building, so I have no fear about taking on new projects, but always want to make sure they are done correctly. My knowledge of electricity is minimal, but I feel confident in handling the average tasks that occur from what my father taught me. Enough about me--on to the question.
I have an vinyl-lined in-ground pool in Minnesota that I have revamped due to its age (I abandoned everything but the steel walls, even removing the steel stair and replacing it with fiberglass, and moved the equipment pad to the back of the lot 90' away from the home to get it out from underneath mine and the neighbors windows). Much of the bonding issues I am tackling now clearly were not done when the pool was first installed, so I do not have a reference point. I have reviewed several issues related to pool bonding, including NEC 680.26, clearly understand the concept and the necessity for it, but am not confident I am completing the task properly. Here is what I have done:
1) I have run #8 solid from each wall bracket with an acceptable mounting lug up to the surface, and left a tail to mount to one side of the steel of the bracket, continued mounting the tail to include the aluminum pool cope, and back over to the other steel panel, terminating the #8 solid at that point. All of this has been done using the accepted mounting lug at each mounting point. Where the coping comes around on the fiberglass stair, I have included a jump wire for each separate piece of coping. This has not been run continuous, but as jump wires crossing breaks in metal seams.
2) I have run #8 solid from the back pool wall to include the metal light niche, the rear steel wall, back up to the surface to include the diving board and the 20' back to the equipment pad to provide bonding for the heater, and the two motors for the pool pump and cleaner pump, both wired at 240v. A line of #8 solid also returns to the service panel from the shallow end steel wall connected to the remaining original service panel end with a split nut approved for burial
Question #1: I have seen nothing that indicates that the #8 solid must be a continuous loop, and currently perceive that, with the walls, coping, and brackets tied with a jump wire, the pool walls become the bonding grid that can accept a run of #8 solid at any point to provide a bond to external equipment distant from the pool (ladders, service panel, motors, etc.). My power has been re-run from the house 90' to the pool pad in PVC conduit 6' from the pool wall.
If I am better connecting all of the jump wires with split bolts and a continuous run of #8 solid, I will do so--I want what is safe! I don't think this gets taken seriously enough after my review of the topic.
Question #2: Regarding the 1/2" rebar in the pool deck within 5' of the pool. I am getting confused as to whether a mounting lug must be used to connect the #8 soild to the rebar or it can be wire tied at a rebar intersection. Also, do I need to place a mounting lug on each individual piece of rebar, or, as long as the rebar is bound tight with a wire tie and acceptable overlap, does that make it a unified system that would require only one mounting point for the #8 solid?
Sorry for being so lengthy, but I figured if you knew specifically what I was doing, it would make responding easier. Thanks in advance for any direction provided.
I have an vinyl-lined in-ground pool in Minnesota that I have revamped due to its age (I abandoned everything but the steel walls, even removing the steel stair and replacing it with fiberglass, and moved the equipment pad to the back of the lot 90' away from the home to get it out from underneath mine and the neighbors windows). Much of the bonding issues I am tackling now clearly were not done when the pool was first installed, so I do not have a reference point. I have reviewed several issues related to pool bonding, including NEC 680.26, clearly understand the concept and the necessity for it, but am not confident I am completing the task properly. Here is what I have done:
1) I have run #8 solid from each wall bracket with an acceptable mounting lug up to the surface, and left a tail to mount to one side of the steel of the bracket, continued mounting the tail to include the aluminum pool cope, and back over to the other steel panel, terminating the #8 solid at that point. All of this has been done using the accepted mounting lug at each mounting point. Where the coping comes around on the fiberglass stair, I have included a jump wire for each separate piece of coping. This has not been run continuous, but as jump wires crossing breaks in metal seams.
2) I have run #8 solid from the back pool wall to include the metal light niche, the rear steel wall, back up to the surface to include the diving board and the 20' back to the equipment pad to provide bonding for the heater, and the two motors for the pool pump and cleaner pump, both wired at 240v. A line of #8 solid also returns to the service panel from the shallow end steel wall connected to the remaining original service panel end with a split nut approved for burial
Question #1: I have seen nothing that indicates that the #8 solid must be a continuous loop, and currently perceive that, with the walls, coping, and brackets tied with a jump wire, the pool walls become the bonding grid that can accept a run of #8 solid at any point to provide a bond to external equipment distant from the pool (ladders, service panel, motors, etc.). My power has been re-run from the house 90' to the pool pad in PVC conduit 6' from the pool wall.
If I am better connecting all of the jump wires with split bolts and a continuous run of #8 solid, I will do so--I want what is safe! I don't think this gets taken seriously enough after my review of the topic.
Question #2: Regarding the 1/2" rebar in the pool deck within 5' of the pool. I am getting confused as to whether a mounting lug must be used to connect the #8 soild to the rebar or it can be wire tied at a rebar intersection. Also, do I need to place a mounting lug on each individual piece of rebar, or, as long as the rebar is bound tight with a wire tie and acceptable overlap, does that make it a unified system that would require only one mounting point for the #8 solid?
Sorry for being so lengthy, but I figured if you knew specifically what I was doing, it would make responding easier. Thanks in advance for any direction provided.
