Inspecting or Locating GFCI's?

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badbrad

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I need some advice from some experienced professional electricians. I am a professional Home Inspector with over 3500 inspections to date. I am chairman of the standards of practice committe for CalNachi and find myself in a heated debate on how to inspect and report the condition of GFCI breakers on existing residences.

There is one powerful group who say the only way to test a GFCI is to push the button and not use any testing device what so ever. This is also the manufacturer's recommendation.

There is a less powerful group who use the three prong testers with the GFCI test button to test/locate the GFCI's. We are very much aware of the limitations of the three prong tester with the possiblity of there being a undiscoverable mis wired condition somewhere in the system that is beyond the scope of a home inspection. But even with this limited tool it at least allow the inspector to determine if the circuit is energized and reports obvious problems. When used in conjunction with the inspection of the panel and any subpanels this simple tester greatly increases the understanding of the system and if there is a significant problem present.. It "helps" the inspector to help understand if the system is properly bonded, open grounds, hot/neutral reversed, etc.

There are also accusations that the three prong testers have been known to explode in the hand of the inspector. I have been unable to document this circumstance. Does anyone have first hand knowledge of this happening?

Suretest testers and the like probably take the inspector out of the "generalist" category and brings him into the area of an "expert" electrician thus greatly increasing his liability. And keep in mind a home inspector is only on the job for 4 or 5 hours, not long enough to be comprehensive in any one system so their use is not an option.

In my opinion by using the GFCI test button on the tester allows the home inspector to at least "locate" the downstream GFCI protected outlet, not necessarily to test it. Just pushing the test button on the breaker does not provide enough information to the client to make an informed decision on such an important safety device.

IS inspecting GFCI's the same a locating a GFCI protected outlet? It would be greatly helpful to hear your opinions on how to inspect GFCI's and how to locate GFCI's. Please keep in mind we are not doing code inspections and that codes are not retroactive to existing buildings. But also we are responsible for determining if a system is "functionally" safe to meet state law.

Brad Deal
20/20 Home Inspections
 

roger

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Retired Electrician
Brad, as low tech as it may sound, one of the easiest and most reliable ways to locate and check downstream devices is with a simple socket and lamp.

BTW, as you correctly mention, the on-board test button is the only recognized way to test the device.

Roger
 

Dennis Alwon

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badbrad said:
There are also accusations that the three prong testers have been known to explode in the hand of the inspector. I have been unable to document this circumstance. Does anyone have first hand knowledge of this happening?

I have never heard of this happening. I always use them. I have a 10 year old tester that has a dial on it so that you can set the ma trip setting. It has a 3 ma, 5ma 7ma and a 10ma. If it trips at 10ma then it needs replacing. I like the comfort level of the tester rather than the push button on the GFCI.

badbrad said:
IS inspecting GFCI's the same a locating a GFCI protected outlet?

I am not sure what you mean. You obviously know where the GFCI's are required to be so you can test any of the outlets and it should trip the rec/breaker. The problem is finding the tripped one. This is the one downside to using the tester tool. I have seen GFCI recep. placed in the most obscure places. You can spend some time looking for them.
 

76nemo

Senior Member
Location
Ogdensburg, NY
I have personally seen two GFCI's have V on the wipers after the push button test was performed. Whoever states the push button test on the receptacle will suffice on any model, from whatever year is a losing man in my dollar bet.
 

roger

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76nemo said:
I have personally seen two GFCI's have V on the wipers after the push button test was performed. Whoever states the push button test on the receptacle will suffice on any model, from whatever year is a losing man in my dollar bet.

Then the test button has done it's job and shown the device as defective hasn't it.

What was the point you were trying to make?

BTW, with that being the case I'll take your bet.

Roger
 

roger

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76nemo said:
If the GFCI still allows V present on the wipers after test, where is the protection????

There is no GFCI protection, if there is still voltage present after the button is pushed then the device is shot and needs to be replaced.

BTW, I have three in my house right now which will not trip with the on-board push button after a lightning stroke got them and I know they are not providing any GFCI protection.

Roger
 

don_resqcapt19

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76,
If the GFCI still allows V present on the wipers after test, where is the protection????
On the older style GFCIs, there are two conditions that can cause that...the GFCI has failed, but more commonly it was wired backwards.
Don
 
roger said:
There is no GFCI protection, if there is still voltage present after the button is pushed then the device is shot and needs to be replaced.

BTW, I have three in my house right now which will not trip with the on-board push button after a lightning stroke got them and I know they are not providing any GFCI protection.

Roger


Roger, if you like I will come down and fix them for you.

Of course...
There is travel time
Food
Gas
material
hourly wage
etc...
:grin: :grin: :grin:
 

mdshunk

Senior Member
Location
Right here.
The reason the GFCI manufacturer's say that the test button is the only approved test is because the required trip point is actually a time current curve. The 6 milliamp limit must trip within a specified period of time. Pressing the test button on the receptacle only puts that test current online for a certain specified amount of time. When you press the test button on a three light "traffic light" tester, it will keep that test current on the line for as long as you hold the button in. Plus, the test current on those testers is done by a resistor, which will necessarily change the applied test current based on the voltage that happens to be present at the receptacle at that particular time.

That said, the Etcon CT103 GFCI tester is the only tester on the market for GFCI's at the present time that will test a GFCI's operation in the manner that the UL prescribes. It times the test current, and it applies the 6 milliamp test current irrespective of the voltage present at the receptacle.
 

mdshunk

Senior Member
Location
Right here.
GFCI time/current curve:

gfcitimecurrentcurve.jpg
 

wptski

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Location
Warren, MI
mdshunk said:
The reason the GFCI manufacturer's say that the test button is the only approved test is because the required trip point is actually a time current curve. The 6 milliamp limit must trip within a specified period of time. Pressing the test button on the receptacle only puts that test current online for a certain specified amount of time. When you press the test button on a three light "traffic light" tester, it will keep that test current on the line for as long as you hold the button in. Plus, the test current on those testers is done by a resistor, which will necessarily change the applied test current based on the voltage that happens to be present at the receptacle at that particular time..
That's incorrect. Both the Ideal 61-165 and the Fluke T+ Pro time out after 7.6 seconds if the GFCI doesn't trip. What UL standard are you refering to? There was another thread sometime ago in which the standard came up which I "think" was 1436.

As far as the graph/text goes, listing typical trip times. I tested Leviton, Cooper and P&S. The P&S had a trip time of 32ms and the others were 130-140ms!
 
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Dennis Alwon

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iwire said:
I do not understand what your saying here.

I knew someone would say something about that statement. What I was trying to say is that the tester I have allows me to check polarity, bad ground etc as well as test the GFCI. Mine will pulse on for a brief second then go off and pulse on in a repetitive fashion as Marc may be suggesting. No button to hold, just plug it in and wait a few seconds till it trips.
 

don_resqcapt19

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Marc,
Pressing the test button on the receptacle only puts that test current online for a certain specified amount of time.
That is not correct. The test button closes a set of contacts which connects a resistor between the hot a neutral with one connection on the line side of the current tester and the other on the load side to create the imbalance. It works exactly the same way as the plug in tester except it does not require an EGC.
Don
 

haskindm

Senior Member
Location
Maryland
BADBRAD,
This discussion has gotten way more technical than it needs to be to answer your question. Please refer to 406.3(D)(3) in the 2008 NEC where the use of GFCI to replace non-grounding receptacles where there is no equipment ground present is discussed. In this case there will be no grounding conductor present so a plug-in GFCI tester (most of which need a grounding conductor to trip the GFCI) will not trip these devices and many home inspectors would site this as evidence that there is a defect in the wiring. The reality is that the installation is code compliant. The ONLY way to test this installation is by pushing the test button on the GFCI device itself. Since most plug-in testers will not work in this application the only approved way to test a GFCI is with the on-board test button. There may be plug-in testers that are sophisticated enough to use the grounded conductor for the test, but most rely on the grounding conductor. For this reason, most, if not all GFCI manufacturers indicate that the only way to accurately test their devices is by using the on-board test button. As others have mentioned, if there is still voltage on the receptacle after the test button is pressed, the unit has failed the test.
 

wptski

Senior Member
Location
Warren, MI
Not sure if in 76nemo's case if the GFCI made a audible trip sound and still had voltage present or not but if that were the case, would a inspector need to carry a test lamp with him to test for voltage? Some have a green light to show power and some have a red light to show tripped.
 

76nemo

Senior Member
Location
Ogdensburg, NY
wptski said:
Not sure if in 76nemo's case if the GFCI made a audible trip sound and still had voltage present or not but if that were the case, would a inspector need to carry a test lamp with him to test for voltage? Some have a green light to show power and some have a red light to show tripped.


Yes Sir, but only one "snapped", as it would normally. The other pushed out hard with quite a bit of resistance. As I didn't mention before, I had the plumber with me at one of the instances, and one come in after. "That can't be, that can't be". You wanna push the button yourself, or hold the meter? Snap, still 120? Try it again?:grin: It was shocking to see the first time:roll:
 

76nemo

Senior Member
Location
Ogdensburg, NY
roger said:
There is no GFCI protection, if there is still voltage present after the button is pushed then the device is shot and needs to be replaced.

BTW, I have three in my house right now which will not trip with the on-board push button after a lightning stroke got them and I know they are not providing any GFCI protection.

Roger

That just shows I was green to the GFCI circuitry. I would of thought for sure if it was bad, it would of cut-off any contact through the wipers. Wrong again. That's an awful, awful risky concept to the average HO. Scary, actually!
 

gndrod

Senior Member
Location
Ca and Wa
GFCI Test

GFCI Test

haskindm said:
BADBRAD,
This discussion has gotten way more technical than it needs to be to answer your question. Please refer to 406.3(D)(3) in the 2008 NEC where the use of GFCI to replace non-grounding receptacles where there is no equipment ground present is discussed. In this case there will be no grounding conductor present so a plug-in GFCI tester (most of which need a grounding conductor to trip the GFCI) will not trip these devices and many home inspectors would site this as evidence that there is a defect in the wiring. The reality is that the installation is code compliant. The ONLY way to test this installation is by pushing the test button on the GFCI device itself. Since most plug-in testers will not work in this application the only approved way to test a GFCI is with the on-board test button. There may be plug-in testers that are sophisticated enough to use the grounded conductor for the test, but most rely on the grounding conductor. For this reason, most, if not all GFCI manufacturers indicate that the only way to accurately test their devices is by using the on-board test button. As others have mentioned, if there is still voltage on the receptacle after the test button is pressed, the unit has failed the test.

Haskindm,

I agree with your comments and may add that Ideal also recommends using their SureTest Adapter clipped to a local system ground to perform the GFCI fault leakage and trip threshold test...otherwise the 61-165 will not function in the GFCI test mode on a non-ground installation.

Badbrad,

I have had the opportunity to test out a home for Section 8 living and found all non-grounding receptacles are required to be replaced with GFCI's and tested for HUD authority approval. The GFCI button test was backed up with using a solid state tester verification. Does your area require such rigid confirmation? rbj
 
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