Circuit capable of carrying the load, conductor sized per the overcurrent protective device and taking voltage drop into consideration (not a NEC requirement),and a receptacle/box/cover meeting the requirements 406.8
I would pick a circuit to tie into, see what is on it and decide if I could add to it I see no reason to run a new dedicated circuit for a 5 amp load.
A new circuit for a 5A load.... not on my dime unless there is a good reason.The only "close" circuit is the receptacle outlet and the MFG of the unit doesn't want motor loads which will be plugged into the other outlets on the same circuit. He also doesn't want it on a lighting circuit (even if I could find a 120v that isn't already loaded).
A new circuit for a 5A load.... not on my dime unless there is a good reason.
Most recpt. circuits are lightly loaded so code wise there are good odds you can use a close one.
Do what the customer wants or do what the manufacturer wants? I start with who is paying the bill and hash over any warrentee issues with him.
Way too many variables to give a clear cut answer here.
(a) who's paying the bill and what do they want ?
(b) what's the nature of the load and the result if the breaker trips ?
(c) how would install costs compare (how much more would it cost to provide an individual circuit) ?
(d) how much load is on circuits you might like to use to make a connection ?
There can be a huge difference between "minimum requirement" (your question) and most desirable solution taking all of the above into account.
If the desired circuit is general use receptacle circuits only, 220.14(I).
{other than manufacturer's instructions included in the listing or labeling, if any--110.3(B)}
If you put too much load on the circuit you choose - you will be tripping overcurrent devcies.
If that happens either run new circuit or find a different circuit to connect to.
It is possible if they use a high pressure washer on same circuit it may cause overloading - tell customer those possibilities if you want to fulfill their wish of doing it at the least possible cost.
Lighting circuits may or may not be a good choice to connect to. If they are nearly full loaded - not a good choice. If there is room for more load - it may just work out. If you are tapped into the controlled side of lighting switches though (common at retail stores to only have switched leads out in the retail area, with only limited number of 24/7 "night lights") your equipment you are trying to power will not run when lights are shut down.
Should't be as hard if the install was 2011 or 2014 NEC compliant.You also have to be careful and not just tap into a lighting circuit if it is just a dead end switch leg. The neutral is hard to find in them!:happyyes:
Don't ask how I know that either!:happyno:
Should't be as hard if the install was 2011 or 2014 NEC compliant.