Is this compliant

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Dennis Alwon

Dennis Alwon

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Retired Electrical Contractor
This is a schematic for a hydraulic pool motor for the cover. Do you see an issue? The key switch is a forward and reverse switch with an LED light in it. Apparently the led turns green when things are correct and red when it is not. I am not sure how it does that but that is another question.




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Smart $ said:
Can't tell just by the schematic diagram. Is the equipment listed?
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I sure hope so since it is a pool setup. I don't remember looking for the UL or other listing agency- I will -- it did have a lug for the bonding.

My curiosity was the keypad switching the neutral. I have not seen that before. Is that allowed. I do have a switch by the motor that breaks the hot conductor but this seems wrong.
 
Dennis Alwon said:
I don't know. I didn't install the cover. I assume there is a safety on it. The switch is momentary contact. You need to hold the key to close or open it.
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Also be sure that from where the cover switch is installed you can see the entire inside of the pool.
 
I just want to know if switching the neutral can be compliant. It was factory done that way and I had to extend the switch.
 
Dennis Alwon said:
I just want to know if switching the neutral can be compliant. It was factory done that way and I had to extend the switch.
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As long as your not fusing the neutral, I cant think of a code section that stops the neutral from being switched. These are control conductors not a "disconnecting means" JMO
 
as long as all ungrounded conductors are turned off at same time it should be fine,
i have never been good with schematics, so if you dont mind i'll ask a question, (like you have a choice lol)

why does it have 240v on it (hand written) but only a neutral(white), line(black) and ground(green)?
 
acrwc10 said:
As long as your not fusing the neutral, I cant think of a code section that stops the neutral from being switched. These are control conductors not a "disconnecting means" JMO
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You can switch the neutral but , I believe , you must switch the ungrounded conductor also. 404.2(B)
 
Gac66610 said:
as long as all ungrounded conductors are turned off at same time it should be fine,
i have never been good with schematics, so if you dont mind i'll ask a question, (like you have a choice lol)

why does it have 240v on it (hand written) but only a neutral(white), line(black) and ground(green)?
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The diagram on the pump to change it to 240 was missing info to make the change. The pump is not really setup to change to 240V but they sent me a schematic to do so. Normally you just flip a switch or move a wire that has spade connectors. This pump was wired with no terminals and all the wires were stakoned together. The wires were very short. I told the builder to get another pump. This one worked for one day and now won't close. It opens but won't close.
 
Are they changing the white to a phase conductor and not using a neutral now?
secondly, is this one of the switches that comes prewired with a plastic box and about 24'' of LNMF on it? (no ground wire on the whip?)
 
I realize that per code switching the neutral is not compliant but this was done by the manufacturer. I also didn't think it was dangerous as it was just a control to the motor. Now I am not certain if I have an issue. Not sure why they switched the neutral either.
 
Dennis Alwon said:
The diagram on the pump to change it to 240 was missing info to make the change. The pump is not really setup to change to 240V but they sent me a schematic to do so. Normally you just flip a switch or move a wire that has spade connectors. This pump was wired with no terminals and all the wires were stakoned together. The wires were very short. I told the builder to get another pump. This one worked for one day and now won't close. It opens but won't close.
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When changing the motor over to 240 volts did you also change the 120 volt solenoid coil also?

this solenoid is what changes the direction of the cover, powered the hydraulic valve pulls in and the cover moves in one direction, power removed the cover moves in the other direction, coil burns up cover only moves in other direction.

Also the 4 18 AWG wires going to the key switch would be a violation if it leaves the main control box.

I have never seen a pool cover control like this, almost all the ones around here are isolated LV powered and just a three or 4 conductor shielded class 2 cable runs to the key switch.
 
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Strange I went to their web site and I can't find any wiring diagram like that one, the key switch on their site is a 5 wire LV type with the dual color LED (changes from green to red when polarity is reversed)

That diagram might be an obsolete cover system?

The company is in fishers Indiana go figure:ashamed1:
 
The last pool I did had a cover and the key switch was also four wires, but... it required a neutral, 120v, open terminal, close terminal.... the neutral was for the light on the keypad. I've never seen one wired like yours Dennis...
 
ActionDave said:
I am not much good at reading schematics either but for what it is worth; once the noodle hits a manufactured piece of equipment then can't they do whatever they want with it?
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Yes but the set up is questionable. The motor is wired with two rubber cords coming out. One is the power source and the other goes to the switch. It entered a pvc wp box without a connector. The whole thing is a mess.

Wayne, this motor is a hydraulic motor that is 25' from the pool. Most of the motors under the covers have low voltage switching but this does not. I called tech support and the guy says he doesn't know anything about it.

Anyway I did not change it to 240V. If they want it 240V then they need to order it from them 240V-- I am not messing with schematics that are different everywhere I look.

I saw the pdf that you posted Wayne- it is in their book but it is nothing like what we have.

Their tech guy said it needs to be on a 25amp breaker. They don't make a 25 amp gfci. Why would it need 25 amps if it worked fine for a day on a 20 amp breaker? They have no idea what they are talking about.
 
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