Kitchen Counter Receptacles

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mkgrady

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I'm looking at a set of plans for a new kitchen. On one 12 foot long wall that faces the river there are windows along the whole length. The back splash is only a couple of inches high. No room for receptacles. No upper cabinets, just windows up to the ceiling.

I have seen the pop-up type in magazines and I know I could use plugmold. The customer wants neither.

She asked if they can go on the face of the lower cabinet. When I explained that she would not be able to have a drawer or a cabinet door there if I install the receptacles she thought that was ok. That just sounds crazy. Picture all the things people leave plugged in all the time on a kitchen counter. are there any code issues with this crazy idea?
 
They can go in the front edge below the counter top, but as you've stated might not get any drawers there.
 
Outlets on front of cabinets probably aren't all that attractive either. Still think plugmold is a good idea and depending on backsplash, they should find a way to incorporate it. Dark quartz or granite counter/back splash - go with black plugmold and you may hardly even notice it.

with twelve feet of counter you need at least 3 receptacles, 2 if you can get one on each "side wall" (assuming no sink, range, or other barrier that makes you start over with spacing). Seems like a 12 foot long counter would be a place where you are always looking for a place to plug things in even if you put in the absolute minimum receptacles required.

There is also the pendant cord drop option, and those black and yellow pendant boxes that are high visibility if they want more ideas of what may be a code compliant option:D
 
infinity said:
They can go in the front edge below the counter top
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I thought 210.52(C)(5) Exception, which permits installation below the countertop, only applies for (1) construction for the physically impaired and (2) islands and peninsulas without any backsplashes.

Cheers, Wayne
 
wwhitney said:
I thought 210.52(C)(5) Exception, which permits installation below the countertop, only applies for (1) construction for the physically impaired and (2) islands and peninsulas without any backsplashes.

Cheers, Wayne
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I just read that in the code. I think you are correct. I will tell the customer to choose plug mold or pop-ups
 
wwhitney said:
I thought 210.52(C)(5) Exception, which permits installation below the countertop, only applies for (1) construction for the physically impaired and (2) islands and peninsulas without any backsplashes.

Cheers, Wayne
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Yet doesn't give any parameters of what "physically impaired" means.
 
I would think if you can't reach the backsplash that would meet the criteria. I guess wheelchair bound would meet that criteria. Maybe the AHJ gets to decide.
 
mkgrady said:
I would think if you can't reach the backsplash that would meet the criteria. I guess wheelchair bound would meet that criteria. Maybe the AHJ gets to decide.
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Then you likely need to meet ADA requirements everywhere else in the home and not just pick and choose what is convenient for the owner.
 
I agree with Whitney-- only on Islands and peninsula's can you install outlets on the face of the lower cabinets
 
Can you get a jobsite meeting with the inspector? Sometimes, when a really difficult decision needs to be made it is beneficial to get the guy writing the check and the guy signing the green tag to have a face-to-face and have them come to a mutual agreement with you just implementing their plan. You just offfer solutions.
 
I have a solution. If the window is a few inches higher, as you said, then install a sillite receptacle in the window sill to serve as the required counter receptacles.

White_SCRW.jpg
 
Dennis Alwon said:
I have a solution. If the window is a few inches higher, as you said, then install a sillite receptacle in the window sill to serve as the required counter receptacles.

White_SCRW.jpg
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Thanks Dennis. I'll look into them. They can be installed face up? During a rain storm they collect water? I'm trying to picture how the rough wiring works with foam insulated walls.
 
mkgrady said:
Thanks Dennis. I'll look into them. They can be installed face up? During a rain storm they collect water? I'm trying to picture how the rough wiring works with foam insulated walls.
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Can't be face up in a countertop, could be in other surfaces.

Rain and open window is going to cause more problems elsewhere then it may cause in this receptacle, IMO, if serving counter tops needs GFCI protection, could even trip GFCI if water gets in the right places.

Foam insulation? I'd probably try to box out a space somehow so that it can't get insulated to allow for enough free movement of cable to insert/remove the device.
 
just a thought,
is there anything wrong with placing the recpt in the wall, through the cabinetry back and placing pass through grommets on the counter surface ?
(think " office desk")
after all, under the counter outlets are allowed for dishwashers and garbage disposals...

what say all?
 
randyo said:
just a thought,
is there anything wrong with placing the recpt in the wall, through the cabinetry back and placing pass through grommets on the counter surface ?
(think " office desk")
after all, under the counter outlets are allowed for dishwashers and garbage disposals...

what say all?
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No, outlets that serve the counter must be above the counter but no more then 20" above the counter, only exceptions are the ADA allowed receptacles on front of cabinet and those allowed just below on the side(s) of peninsulas or islands.
 
mkgrady said:
Thanks Dennis. I'll look into them. They can be installed face up? During a rain storm they collect water? I'm trying to picture how the rough wiring works with foam insulated walls.
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The window sill is not a counter so they can be face up. For rough in we drill a large hole thru the 2x4 window caps and just have the wires there curlesup. Once the sill is in then drill your 1 3/4" hole and wire the device. The sill receptacle is similar to a cord cap at the end of an extension cord. TR rated and can handle 2- 12/2 nm's. I recommend just have a single nm as it is much easier.

Do not try and use a smaller or slighter larger bit as there is very little tolerance--1 3/4" bit...you will be sorry if you drill a 1 7/8" hole.
 
Dennis Alwon said:
The window sill is not a counter so they can be face up. For rough in we drill a large hole thru the 2x4 window caps and just have the wires there curlesup. Once the sill is in then drill your 1 3/4" hole and wire the device. The sill receptacle is similar to a cord cap at the end of an extension cord. TR rated and can handle 2- 12/2 nm's. I recommend just have a single nm as it is much easier.

Do not try and use a smaller or slighter larger bit as there is very little tolerance--1 3/4" bit...you will be sorry if you drill a 1 7/8" hole.
Click to expand...

Thank you Dennis. Very helpful
 
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