Kitchen Counter Receptacles

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Bama_Electrical

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Electrician
I am wrapping up a rough-in on a new construction, residential home and I received a request to use boxes for the kitchen counters that are adjustable boxes like the one below. Here’s the kicker. I have been asked to notch the 2x4 so that the flange that nails to the 2x4 will sit flush. They don’t want a bump where the tile back splash meets the receptacle. Have y’all ever done this?


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Bama_Electrical said:
I am wrapping up a rough-in on a new construction, residential home and I received a request to use boxes for the kitchen counters that are adjustable boxes like the one below. Here’s the kicker. I have been asked to notch the 2x4 so that the flange that nails to the 2x4 will sit flush. They don’t want a bump where the tile back splash meets the receptacle. Have y’all ever done this?


View attachment 2559791
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Never encountered it. Pass the buck off to the sheet rockers. Make them notch the sheet rock


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Never had an issue and I agree that the adjustable boxes are great when the finished surface are unknown. That little bump if at all present is easy to flush out especially with tiles, mastic is very forgiving and a skilled tileman can easily flush up the tile when setting them. The 2by studing roughin would be a bigger issue than that little bracket.
 
It isn't an issue but I do remember notching the old metal box bars so that the sheetrock didn't bulge. Not an issue with tile in most cases.

The old style bars where a piece of metal folded in have so the ears of a metal switch box could fit in the groove. One on top and one bar on the bottom which spanned the stud space. They did leave a large bump so we cut them into the studs.
 
Bama_Electrical said:
I have been asked to notch the 2x4 so that the flange that nails to the 2x4 will sit flush. They don’t want a bump where the tile back splash meets the receptacle. Have y’all ever done this?
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I have. Make a pair of shallow cuts across the face of the stud, then cut it out with a hammer and wood chisel.
 
i've had this issue with a contractor and every time i use these boxes i feel guilty for not notching the two by four. IMO i prefer these boxes over smart boxes and oldwork/newwork boxes so if i have to notch the beam i dont mind.(only one contractor has asked me to) It saves time in the end instead of having to adjust the smart boxes with screws. which never seem to get flush perfectly. Although some times GFCI don't sit plumb in the adjusta boxes if the wood isn't plumb. so thats that....
 
Yes my friend does tile for a living. It's a huge time saver for her, and helps the final outlet face plate sit flush. 2 or 3 quick passes with a 20v planer is all you need.
 
It depends on what size of tiles are getting installed. Basically - the larger the tile, the larger the notches in the trowel (meaning more thinset and more ability to overcome surface variation)

Just yesterday I installed backsplash (and floating shelves) in a kitchen using 2'x4' tiles and a 3/8" square-notched trowel. That tiny thickness of metal would mean nothing in a setup like that20220308_171748.jpg
 
James L said:
It depends on what size of tiles are getting installed. Basically - the larger the tile, the larger the notches in the trowel (meaning more thinset and more ability to overcome surface variation)

Just yesterday I installed backsplash (and floating shelves) in a kitchen using 2'x4' tiles and a 3/8" square-notched trowel. That tiny thickness of metal would mean nothing in a setup like thatView attachment 2559797
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what is this beautiful tile! Where did you get it, and most importantly will i regret showing my GF after i see the cost?
 
I meet with the tile people and make sure they don't cut the tile too close or adjust it out before they start
 
Another option is to put in an old-work box after tiling. Not ideal, but works well in remodels.
 
I haven't notched for those boxes ( but definitely would if someone asked me to or not, I also sheetrock and spackle and that hump would bother me, and yes there will be a hump ) I have notched for Vapor proof boxes for exterior walls and ceilings. As Larry said but I didn't use the saw, just used the chisel. Time consuming but not too bad.
Speaking of Vapor proof boxes on exterior walls? Are these receptacles on the exterior wall? Am I the only guy using Vapor proof boxes??

PS Or you can install a regular box and you an extension ring
 
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steven765 said:
what is this beautiful tile! Where did you get it, and most importantly will i regret showing my GF after i see the cost?
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It's porcelain made to look like granite.
It was $25 per square foot
Comes 2 per carton
It came from the shop that made her countertops. I'd have to look at the carton for the brand
 
Just set a router with a 1/2" dia straight cut bit at 1/8" deep and buzz them in a couple seconds. It will take you longer to find the tool and set the bit up than it would to cut a dozen of them.
 
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