kitchen inspection

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puckman

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ridgewood, n.j.
just failed an inspection for not having locking devices on hard wired applainces . this is the first time an inspector brough this up. this is for a range and oven on a 50 amp circuit and the diswasher on it,s own circuit. i wasn't at the inspection to see what he would want . would a lock attachment do? what would be the best way to to handle this? thanks for any input anyone can give. /
 
Go out and buy the locking device designed and listed for that specific breaker(s). They're only a few bucks.
 
puckman said:
just failed an inspection for not having locking devices on hard wired applainces . this is the first time an inspector brough this up. this is for a range and oven on a 50 amp circuit and the diswasher on it,s own circuit. i wasn't at the inspection to see what he would want . would a lock attachment do? what would be the best way to to handle this? thanks for any input anyone can give. /
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i had one try and pull this b.s. on me once. get him to show you in the code, then show him where he's wrong.
 
stickboy1375 said:
THe range should pass if the drawer below pulls out and is cord and plug connected...
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He said that it was hard wired.


just failed an inspection for not having locking devices on hard wired applainces
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brantmacga said:
i had one try and pull this b.s. on me once. get him to show you in the code, then show him where he's wrong.
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Art. 422.31 , I'm assuming the DW is hardwired... If it is then the Inspector is correct...


Thanks Trevor, looks like I missed a few words... Either way, the inspector is correct... ART 422.31 (B)
 
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brantmacga said:
i had one try and pull this b.s. on me once. get him to show you in the code, then show him where he's wrong.
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Can you show us where you're correct?
 
celtic said:
Can you show us where you're correct?
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this will sound unbelievable, but according to the manufacturers of the dishwashers we most commonly install, their dw's are not rated over 300va or 1/8 hp, so 422.31(A) applies. :D hey, if they said it, it must be true, and you can't aruge w/ the man that makes the machine. yeh the insp. was right on the range; sorry i left that out. its just when i see the word 'inspector' i think of bloodsucking vampires and i tend to get all out of sorts. nothing personal against any inspectors here. :D but i do carry a wooden stake w/ me when i have to meet one; just in case.
 
GE's, kenmore, etc. . . - i told you it sounded unbelievable. but that's exactly what they told us. but if you think about it, if its not having to heat the water, and the water pressure itself is helping to turn the washer, then how much force do you need to run the thing? i'm just sayin'. i'm thinking the pump out will use more current than anything except for heat.
 
the reason for it IMO warrants the cost of the device, since it keeps someone from turning on the breaker while you are buried behind the thing.

300va or not it is still on a 20 amp circuit.

and yes I have been failed for it as well.
 
Could someone please explain the rational behind having a device on the breaker to lock it in the open position? In the case of appliances, what is the concern about someone accidentally turning off the breaker?
 
The concern is about someone accidentally (or on purpose, without knowing about the danger) turning it on, while you are working on the appliance.
 
yeah but if its got a display or timer the off on the unit dosent disco the conducters so you still need lock out or disco
 
Back to the OP...
I assume we are talking about a residential kitchen?
Why hardwire in the first place? Is there some benefit for this?:-?
 
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