Kitchen with flexible metal conduit

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Hi, I was wondering if someone could advise the best way to deal with the following kitchen wiring?

Please see picture.

This is in an old apartment wired with flexible metal conduit bonded to metal boxes with conduit bushings. The locknut connections all seem tight with no visible corrosion. There are ground screws in the boxes clamping a short length of bare copper wire to provide grounding conductors for the outlets.

I know metal conduit is not currently code compliant for grounding since it lacks the lower impedance path to ground that a dedicated copper conductor would provide, but there is a path to ground through the metal sheathing of the conduit. This should be grandfathered by code from when the apartment was originally wired, correct?

The 2 gang metal junction box seems cramped for three 8ga to 8ga wire splices. Should this be changed to a 4 gang box to reduce the chance of overheating at the splices?

Should the 8ga neutral wire be re-pulled as a single run from the junction box, through the cooktop box, to the oven box? This would reduce splices on the neutral wire from 2 to 1. Is there any safety benefit to this or can it be kept at 2 splices? Pulling a singe run from the panel for 0 splices would require major demolition.

Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
 

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More than one thing wrong

More than one thing wrong

As for grounding you may be OK.
You have a shared neutral if it is used in the cooktop and oven.
The neutral needs to be run in the same raceway as its feed.
 
Thanks for the reply. The Neutral is not needed for the cooktop so it would only be spliced together in the cooktop box and extended over to the oven box to be a dedicated neutral for the oven circuit. I don't believe the number of splices is important but I know a continuous home run is ideal.

Due to the wall construction there seems to be no way of running a new neutral in the same raceway as the two hots going to the oven box. Unfortunately the oven and cooktop raceways are not parallel which I think would allow a code exception of running the neutral in a different raceway from the hot wires.

From what I understand a 120v/240v oven only uses 120v and the neutral return for its light bulbs and electronics, not its 240v heating elements, so the current draw should be very low. The specs for this oven show a 16amp rating, assuming at maximum temperature setting which is not often in usage, meaning probably around a 10-12amp draw on average. Is there a substantial safety issue running the neutral in an adjacent(same wall, maybe 3 feet apart) but not immediately parallel raceway for this particular situation?

Are there other options?
 
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