Hey, guys, I want to install my 2500w inverter in the work van, most likely on the bulkead behind the driver's seat. I'll probably install a second battery, too, a deep-cycle marine/starting battery in a battery box.
While I know it's not recommended to merely parallel dissiimilar batteries, I did so in an older mini-van when I had a high-power, multi-amplifier audio system, with #8 between the batteries, and it worked fine.
I guess the length of wire between the main battery and the audio battery positive terminals was enough to limit charging current and back-feed starting current. The audio battery was in a box behind the driver's seat.
I know the battery isolator is the way to go, and probably what I'll do, which brings me to my question: What's the best type of wire to use in a vehicle? Welding or DLO cable, THHN/THWN, or auto battery cables?
I'll need wire for the alternator/isolator and the aux. battery, and between the battery and the inverter. At full power, the inverter could use 200a, so I'll want a 200a fuse between the battery and the inverter, too.
So, do I use 3/0 copper, or is that overkill for what should be a relatively low-duration current, and would simple, pre-assembled battery and starter cables from the auto-supply store be adequate for the purpose?
Also, do any of you guys have ideas for a better place in a van for an inverter? I have a remote for it on the way, so it can be hidded. The inverter is an AIMS PWRINV2500W (imaginative number :roll
, about 19" x 10" x 3.5".
As always, thanx!
Got the PM,:grin:
I was running a 36kw, triplett full sine wave, with an auto battery maintainer system for a travel trailer of the same rating, the neat thing about this set up was this travel trailer system had a male plug to plug in to 120 volts 30 or 20 amps, and a auto transfer switch, and would also recharge the battery's, the suggested amp hour ratting of battery's was 5 120 AH, I used 10 240 Delco deep cycle.
Remember the float charge of a deep cycle and a starting battery are different, deep cycle is 13.6 volts and a starting battery is 14.2, without a regulator you will be over charging a deep cycle, go to your nearest camper parts and sales and look for a regulator for about 30-60 amps output depending upon your alternator size.
I was using a 285 amp GM big truck alternator, installed by GM for my van when I ordered it, 246 amps will drain any battery even running the motor at a high idle, if your using a stock alt. which for most is only 104 amps if that.
I used 3/0 fine braid HD truck cable, available from most truck garages, or cheaper if ordered online, still a few bucks.
and last but least, my Bull Dog keyless auto start system, paid a big ol 49.95 at Sam's club LOL it was a down size that was supposed to only start the van, but when I got to digging into it, I found out they had put everything in this unit but didn't give the instructions how to wire or program the other functions, but all the electronics were in it, I think they just made one unit for all, just had to go to their web site and down load the PDF's for other units that offered these functions and which capped off wires to use, they had some neat functions, like having it start the van up when the inside temp got below 50?, set the van to start up every morning at 6:00am Monday-Friday to be all warmed up when I went to jump in it, and last but not least monitor the trucks main starting battery, and another wire would monitor optional batteries, both programmable to what voltage you wanted it to start the truck at, I set them both at 11 volts, plenty to start the truck without having the inverter going into alarm, and also not to cause too much cycling,
For 2500 va, (13.6/2500 is about 183 amps) I would not use less then 5 240 AH deep cycles, using a Milwaukee extension drill, it should last all day with maybe truck starting once. if you isolate your optional batteries from you main battery, and your auto start doesn't have the optional monitor, it will not start the van when your optional batteries are drained, Bull dog is the only one I know of that has the two monitoring circuits, but then I haven't looked in a long while.
the main monitor is tied into the the regular input battery hook ups, so it isn't separable.
If you don't isolate you will need a ballast resistor, to limit the charging and load on your alternator, it will have to be sized to about 30-60 amps or less depending upon how much your van uses for operation, but I would look into the travel trailer system, as it would make your batteries last the longest, just make sure the charger/regulator is a float charge type, not a constant charge. big difference in burning up battery's.
I had the triplett, mounted on the top of my speaker box right behind my seat the trailer system was on the other speaker box behind the passagener seat, the battery's were in a sunken floor space I made by cutting open the floor by the frame and making a well that fit down into it, made a nice removalble cover, the only problem was I had to put some heat reflecting insulation on one side because of the exuste pipe was within 6", used a small 12 volt duct fan and 4" hose to vent the box, from above positive flow into the box from the fan, but the fan was ducted to another round hole with lovers point to the rear to pervent water from getting in, built that under one of the bottom shelves in a useless area, had a rocker switch on my dash to turn on the inverter, 4 plex's at each door, and two in the back door.
Well that was the 2006 van I have photos of on here, but unfortuntly it was totaled in Dec of 2007 hit head on, I was able to recover everything but the Bull Dog and all the hookups up front, had to remove the seats to get the speakers, and inverters out, out of the 10 battery's only 4 made it, the rest came out from under the van and smashed when the end of the sunken box broke open, cables held 4 back, this system was first in my 1994 chevy van, and moved to the 06 after a few months of travaling., for now I'm driving a 2005 chevy express, and just have a 1800 watt modifide sine wave, with 10' of cable from before, and some monster clamps to connect to the battery in the van when needed, I have a 400 watt in the cab to charge my dewalts, and other things, but that is it. not been wiring any new stuff so theres not been much call for the inverter, on service change outs, I just grab the 1800 and clip it to the truck battery and the way I go. well with the motor running, found out what not running it ment once:roll: and with a stock 104 amp alt. if you load it it will kill the motor
Ok enough for now.
