LED Tape under cabinet install

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sw_ross

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When roughing in a new kitchen what kind of wire do you use for in wall from the driver location to the under cabinet (tape light) location?

I know the manufacturer sells an 18-2 that looks like speaker wire (stranded). I've also been told you can just use 18-2 stat wire.

Thanks!
 
I've had an installation of the speaker wire red tagged because it did not have wire markings. The thermostat wire is marked as class 2 and I've had no issues with it.
 
I've done a few kitchens in the past month with 14/2 in wall speaker cable. The boss had is leftover from a job a few years ago so it was a good use for it.
 
peter d said:
14/2 solid NM cable would be an absolute nightmare to terminate on the tiny connection boxes that we use for the LED tape.
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I can appreciate that.
The last time I installed the LED tape strip (about 4 years ago) I ran 14/2 NMB and the manufacturer had a terminal block that accommodated 14/2. The customer supplied the material on this one so I don't remember the manufacturer's name.
 
18/2 CL2 stranded cable. And I usually stub out a 14/2 NM on top of a cabinet to mount the driver.

If you’re still at the rough-in stage, I’d recommend the Legrand adorne under cabinet lighting and power strips ....

https://www.legrand.us/adorne/undercabinet-series.aspx

Not cheap but my customers love these. I’d recommend the linear strip LED lighting modules. A nice effect is to have these under the cabinet with the LED tape on top of the cabinets. Average kitchen cost for the under cabinet strips is about $1400.

FYI if you use these, run 14/3 for the Lighting section. The accessory circuit shares a neutral with the lights. The receptacle circuit just gets a 12/2. Right


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LED Tape lite adhesive

LED Tape lite adhesive

Anyone ever have problems with the 3M adhesive on the tape light?

I'm always apprehensive about the long term and whether 5 or 10 years down the road if there would be a failure of the adhesive.

I also worry about down the road if the customer ever want to change their under cabinet lighting but they only have low voltage wire to work with...
 
sw_ross said:
Anyone ever have problems with the 3M adhesive on the tape light?

I'm always apprehensive about the long term and whether 5 or 10 years down the road if there would be a failure of the adhesive.

I also worry about down the road if the customer ever want to change their under cabinet lighting but they only have low voltage wire to work with...
Click to expand...

I would not worry about the last item you mentioned. nobody is going back to using Legacy under cabinet lighting.

I've never worried about the adhesive being too weak, on the other hand I have worried about it being too strong and ripping veneer if they ever needed to be removed. Cleaning the surface with an alcohol soaked rag should resolve any issues with the adhesive not sticking.

the only problems I've had with under cabinet lights are the connections, which vary quite a bit in style and effectiveness tween different manufacturers. some are extremely finicky and absolute garbage and will make you wish you had never heard of under cabinet lighting. others are so easy and reliable that you don't think anything of it.

I like the track and lenses myself, it gets rid of the pin-dot effect on shiny countertops, tho they can add substantially to the cost of the job.

Eta: the wire... should be listed for in wall use. Some cheaper speaker wire or zip cord is not rated for such. I also prefer 20/2 solid, because the IDC connectors I use are only good up to 19 gauge wire
 
JFletcher said:
I would not worry about the last item you mentioned. nobody is going back to using Legacy under cabinet lighting.

I've never worried about the adhesive being too weak, on the other hand I have worried about it being too strong and ripping veneer if they ever needed to be removed. Cleaning the surface with an alcohol soaked rag should resolve any issues with the adhesive not sticking.

the only problems I've had with under cabinet lights are the connections, which vary quite a bit in style and effectiveness tween different manufacturers. some are extremely finicky and absolute garbage and will make you wish you had never heard of under cabinet lighting. others are so easy and reliable that you don't think anything of it.

I like the track and lenses myself, it gets rid of the pin-dot effect on shiny countertops, tho they can add substantially to the cost of the job.

Eta: the wire... should be listed for in wall use. Some cheaper speaker wire or zip cord is not rated for such. I also prefer 20/2 solid, because the IDC connectors I use are only good up to 19 gauge wire
Click to expand...

The shop I work for uses literally several miles of LED tape each year. We've tried every type of IDC connector and pressure connector for the LED tape known to mankind, and absolutely nothing is reliable long term. We solder to the tape every time, and we have no problems; 20awg MTW leads, approximately 6" long, and then connected to "feeder" from the driver, typically 18awg or 16awg in-wall rated cable. Splice type varies depending on application. Use good rosin-core solder and a 25W iron, and you're good. Practice on some scrap tape until you're comfortable.


SceneryDriver
 
I don't trust the tape I usually install in some sort of channel like this. If you can. See all those little burn marks on the bottom of the cabinets those were actually from the old 12v halogen bulbs. I replaced them with these used the same wiring just Changed fixtures and driver
218e7b6fb2c841ace9a0e242c848c1cc.jpg
2e142e3297690f97352c8093afeeb613.jpg
df7c45a4a4a92c7630d246146f50017a.jpg


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Sorry so I screw these to bottom of cabinets and the tape sticks pretty good to the aluminum I usually wipe them down with some alcohol swabs before and I never had a problem

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nickelec said:
I don't trust the tape I usually install in some sort of channel like this. If you can. See all those little burn marks on the bottom of the cabinets those were actually from the old 12v halogen bulbs. I replaced them with these used the same wiring just Changed fixtures and driver
218e7b6fb2c841ace9a0e242c848c1cc.jpg
2e142e3297690f97352c8093afeeb613.jpg
df7c45a4a4a92c7630d246146f50017a.jpg


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Click to expand...

This is what I use as well, just yesterday in fact.

Armacost Lighting has some connections that are very solid.
 
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