length of pigtails at box

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cmoore721

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An inspector measured the wire from the connector to the wire nut, he wanted 6". Where is the artical for this?
 
You have to have 6" of wire (preferably more, ;) ) once the cable comes into the box. If we are talking NM, then it is 6" of conductor, not 3" of cable and 3" of conductor. You post heading mentions pigtails. I'm not sure there is a requirement on the pigtails once they are attatched to the circuit conductors. Although I would recommend at least 6" there as well.
 
The pigtails can be any length you want. The requirement is for the conductors entering the box not the pigtails. Your mention of length of pigtails and measuring the wire from the connector to the wire nut are contradictory. Roger has posted the article with all of the information.
 
infinity said:
The pigtails can be any length you want. The requirement is for the conductors entering the box not the pigtails.
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That's the way I see it also....however...

360Youth said:
Although I would recommend at least 6" there as well.
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...that's the way I like it.
 
celtic said:
That's the way I see it also....however...



...that's the way I like it.
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Actually 6" is good but I tend to leave more. A 3 1/2" deep box with only 3" sticking out is a little short for my liking.
 
Code being "bare minimum" :D
I usually measure using my lineman's ( 8 - 9" ?)....from the back of the box...leaves a decent amount to work with. I have a tendency to leave a LOT of wire in a box.
"Better to be looking at it than for it"
 
I prefer the amount of wire left make some sense. 2 3-wire cables entering the extreme left side of a 3g box, #1 with feed & N & switchleg, #2 with two switchlegs & N, the noodles would be shortest and tie together with minimal slack. The feed would be longest. SwLeg1 would be next longer, and so on.
 
celtic said:
"Better to be looking at it than for it"
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As long as it fits neatly and you can tell what you are looking at. My biggest aggrivation next to wire being too short is wires crossed up and shoved in a box. No assumptions, Celtic, ;) :grin: just continuing observences.
 
celtic said:
That would be a design choice:roll:


:D
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I've seen all kinds of designs, but my teaching method has been to find what works in your mind to keep everything straight as you are working on it and as you may have to come back to it (as long as it not too far out in left field). I have always tried to train myself that if I get interupted and have to come back to a box I know what I have just by the layout of the box. Everybody's method/design is different. As an installer you need to know what you have as you are working with it, as a trouble shooter you need to find what you are looking for no matter who designed it.
 
I've seen guys cut the wires very short and still have a hard time pushing a big mess into the box. Other's leave a lot of wire and shape them in neatly. When all is said and done the guy who shaped has twice as much wire in the box yet everything fits nicely. The other guy who hatcheted the wires short has a mess and has trouble getting the device in or the cover on.
 
infinity said:
I've seen guys cut the wires very short and still have a hard time pushing a big mess into the box. Other's leave a lot of wire and shape them in neatly. When all is said and done the guy who shaped has twice as much wire in the box yet everything fits nicely. The other guy who hatcheted the wires short has a mess and has trouble getting the device in or the cover on.
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Definitely an art to shaping it such that it all flows in nicely and is distributed in the box evenly.

One of the tricks I picked up here (don't recall from whom) is to rotate the whole thing as you push it in. Not my favorite approach (I don't like the notion of every wire torqueing against its connections as it is forever straining to get back to its natural shape), but sometimes it comes in handy.
 
peter d said:
Getting devices into boxes wouldn't be such a problem if electricians would only stop using 18 cubic inch device boxes. :rolleyes:
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I would have to disagree. I don't have any problems fitting 2 12-2 or even 3 14-2 into one if the wire is right lengths and folded properly. Now I agree with the practice of the 22Rs over 18s, not just because it offers more space, but it offers more spacing options.


tallguy said:
Definitely an art to shaping it such that it all flows in nicely and is distributed in the box evenly.

One of the tricks I picked up here (don't recall from whom) is to rotate the whole thing as you push it in. Not my favorite approach (I don't like the notion of every wire torqueing against its connections as it is forever straining to get back to its natural shape), but sometimes it comes in handy.
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I usually start with grounds and fold them over to one corner so that conductors act as one before any twists and crimps are made. Once they are tucked out of the way then you move to neutrals and then power pigtails, alternating corners as needed. If you get each group acting as one they fold back nice and neat. Just one man's method.
 
360Youth said:
I don't have any problems fitting 2 12-2 or even 3 14-2 into one if the wire is right lengths and folded properly.
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I don't have any problems either. But why would you even bother doing that? What if you have to install a GFI or dimmer? Yeah, if fits and it's "code," but why do that when you can just buy a deeper box and make your life easier!
 
peter d said:
I don't have any problems either. But why would you even bother doing that? What if you have to install a GFI or dimmer? Yeah, if fits and it's "code," but why do that when you can just buy a deeper box and make your life easier!
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GFIs are always 22R. I have started going with the deep boxes standard just so I don't have to plan ahead whether it needs to be or not. Our next home will be rather large and I may go with the 18s for cost purposes. Also, the P&S boxes we use do not have the quick clip so it severley drags out device installation time. At least the last batch I got did not. I am not doing 3 floors worth of devices like that. And before someone asks, no I do not push zip the devices in, but a good twirly puts 'em in 1/10th the time.
 
360Youth said:
Our next home will be rather large and I may go with the 18s for cost purposes. Also, the P&S boxes we use do not have the quick clip so it severley drags out device installation time.
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How much difference is there? I haven't use an 18cu in box in over 15 years-- at least back to when the 22 R's came out.

I never use the quick click but using a cordless drill makes installation an easy job.
 
Dennis Alwon said:
How much difference is there?
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It may not. I'll have to check. I walked through job site the other day and all i know is it's big. Won't take much to make a cost difference on this one.

Dennis Alwon said:
I never use the quick click but using a cordless drill makes installation an easy job.
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I'd rather carry the twirly for a couple of hours than the cordless. I've been thinking of another cordless screwdriver for just such circumstances.
 
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