Lithonia ultra-slim led recessed lights

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jaylectricity

Senior Member
Location
Massachusetts
Occupation
licensed journeyman electrician
Anybody using these?

31cc7bUI9mL._SL500_AC_SS350_.jpg

They've been on sale at my local supply house. about $15 for the 3" and $20 for the 4". I'm really starting to like them, especially for that price. You almost don't have to even worry if there's a joist where you want to put them. As long as you have enough room to slide the junction box into the ceiling, they practically fit in the space where the sheetrock you cut out used to be.
 

mkgrady

Senior Member
Location
Massachusetts
Anybody using these?

View attachment 19482

They've been on sale at my local supply house. about $15 for the 3" and $20 for the 4". I'm really starting to like them, especially for that price. You almost don't have to even worry if there's a joist where you want to put them. As long as you have enough room to slide the junction box into the ceiling, they practically fit in the space where the sheetrock you cut out used to be.

I have installed a bunch of them. Like them a lot. I use a remgrit holesaw of the exact size recommended. For 4” I use a 4-1/8”
 

readydave8

re member
Location
Clarkesville, Georgia
Occupation
electrician
Using a lot of the 6", customers been liking them, I love them due to simplified layout

Last time we used them on new construction we stubbed out romex and cut holes to size on trimout. House I'm wiring now I have ordered 60 roughin pans, will be the first time I've tried them
 
I have been using those as well - not those exact ones, different brand but very similar. I like them. I have used them for new construction even, and I think I prefer them over traditional new work housings: leave the wires up in the ceiling, make a map, and cut them in at the end. I call them "rat traps" :)
 

JFletcher

Senior Member
Location
Williamsburg, VA
I have been using those as well - not those exact ones, different brand but very similar. I like them. I have used them for new construction even, and I think I prefer them over traditional new work housings: leave the wires up in the ceiling, make a map, and cut them in at the end. I call them "rat traps" :)

Would certainly remove most, if not downright eliminate, problems with the HO/GC changing ceiling detail with different cabinets, fancy 3-tier, 14" wide crown molding, deciding last moment they want a built-in bookcase on a wall, or god forbid, deciding they want a different amount of/pattern of lights, and having to move your cans. "Blueprinting" the ceiling where the NM loops are for the lights sounds easier and much less time consuming than doing a layout with cans. and you would still get to bill the customer for change orders that dont take as much time as fixed cans would...
 

shortcircuit2

Senior Member
Location
South of Bawstin
I put a 6-inch in the other day. I like them and they put out good light. I "took the line" on the cutout with the keyhole saw and it barely covered the hole...so cut em tight so they fit.

I couldn't find a box fill in the instructions, but I would say we are limited to 2 romex's with the wagos.

Then, I always thought j-boxes needed to be mounted...but you just "float" these?

On the new work install with those "pans"...are you pre-installing the j-box and mounting it to the joist near the pan?
 

JFletcher

Senior Member
Location
Williamsburg, VA
I put a 6-inch in the other day. I like them and they put out good light. I "took the line" on the cutout with the keyhole saw and it barely covered the hole...so cut em tight so they fit.

I couldn't find a box fill in the instructions, but I would say we are limited to 2 romex's with the wagos.

Then, I always thought j-boxes needed to be mounted...but you just "float" these?

On the new work install with those "pans"...are you pre-installing the j-box and mounting it to the joist near the pan?

iirc, the way they are listed as something other than a jbox and do not require mounting.

eta: here's two mfg installation videos that do not show the driver/junction box being hard mounted:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lc1EYB5Nzgk

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MgmSukybivo

Not saying that is by code, but there you go.
 
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sparky1118

Senior Member
Location
Massachusetts
Occupation
Master Electrician
I put a 6-inch in the other day. I like them and they put out good light. I "took the line" on the cutout with the keyhole saw and it barely covered the hole...so cut em tight so they fit.

I couldn't find a box fill in the instructions, but I would say we are limited to 2 romex's with the wagos.

Then, I always thought j-boxes needed to be mounted...but you just "float" these?

On the new work install with those "pans"...are you pre-installing the j-box and mounting it to the joist near the pan?

I had the same issue with the 6” also. I ended up buying a 6” hole saw it fits perfectly snug


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I just installed 51 of the Lithonia can killers/rat traps. The template is 6.25. I cut a 6" which was perfect. Love these things. Joist layout changed so the last row was right under a Joist - No problem.
 

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peter d

Senior Member
Location
New England
I saw them at HD and meant to pick some up as a sample. I do a lot of retrofit work and these look like they save a ton of time. The only problem would be if there is already existing recessed in the house and having to match them. Does Lithonia make an LED trim retrofit so you can add these slim lights and retrofit old recessed so they all look the same? If not, they should. :thumbsup:
 
Ordered 60 roughin pans from SH 1st week in January

Haven't got any yet

House will be insulated this week, sheetrock next week

I haven't used those rough in pans yet. The few new construction jobs I have done with these, I just left the wire up in the ceiling, noted the measurements, and cut them in later. I would indeed love to let the drywallers do the cutting. I hate regular cans more everyday: hard to layout, stupid flimsy arms, setscrew works to lock it in 50% 0f the time....
 

mopowr steve

Senior Member
Location
NW Ohio
Occupation
Electrical contractor
Although they look to remedy some issues with regular housings I have yet to break down and use them.

What happens when say 5 years down the road a driver or LEDs take a crap. These products change so frequently that I fear that any replacement will not exactly match so here you are changing an entire room to get a match. That means connections and all, maybe even hole cut-out being wrong.

With retrofitted regular cans, any failure is just a matter of pulling trim down and changing even if it has to be a whole room. Less time than having to rewire.

I have nightmares.
 
Although they look to remedy some issues with regular housings I have yet to break down and use them.

What happens when say 5 years down the road a driver or LEDs take a crap. These products change so frequently that I fear that any replacement will not exactly match so here you are changing an entire room to get a match. That means connections and all, maybe even hole cut-out being wrong.

With retrofitted regular cans, any failure is just a matter of pulling trim down and changing even if it has to be a whole room. Less time than having to rewire.

I have nightmares.

fair points. I have those concerns too. I tell people to buy some extras to keep on hand.
 

titan1021

Senior Member
I have used them for in-cabinet lighting and they are great. Still prefer to use full size cans for general lighting.
The clip-in's don't dim as low and come in fewer temperatures.
 
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