- Location
- Windsor, CO NEC: 2017
- Occupation
- Service Manager
Before I begin my rant, I need to make it clear that I know I am truly missing something, and that I hope some discussion on this event will clear some items up for me. I know I have done (or allowed) wrong deeds, and need perspective. I wire menial tract homes, never over 2,600 square feet. We are the low bid. I try to do good, but don't despair too much over minor incidents.
Recently, the GC of my primary jobsite called me to let me know that one of my houses failed the trim inspection. When I asked how bad, he said "It's a long list, just a second... Okay, it actually looks like four items, but the second one is really long."
After a confusing verbal description of the notice, I rolled over to the house to make the corrections. The following is what I remember of the notice:
The first item was entirely my fault. I don't remember what circumstances prompted me to forget the bonding screw, but I couldn't believe it until I saw it with my own eyes. I was grateful he caught the mistake. (It's easy to spot the lack of a ground screw, the backside of the box is exposed inside the cabinet.)
The Arc Fault button was jammed, so I replaced the breaker.
The vanity fixtures came with 1/2" knockouts for romex to enter the back of the vanity, and also with a large hole in the center for a junction box behind the light. I didn't originally hang any of the vanities, so I'm not sure of the literature that came with them. I saw what I saw upon removal of the light to make corrections.
In all but one of the vanities, romex entered into the fixture through a 1/2" knockout, and the large hole was unused. My quick and easy solution was merely to pilot the dead-center of the hole, remove the fixture, and attach a pancake box to the back of the fixture. I then re-installed the fixture using the existing anchors in drywall (with factory-supplied mounting 'keyhole style' holes in the backplate of the fixture).
One fixture had romex entering the big hole, unbushed, but the original installer took pains to not damage the drywall behind the fixture. So, the drywall kept the romex from the edge of the backplate of the light. The pancake method worked out fine for this, as well. I agreed with the inspector's decision on this light, and this light alone. IMO, the presence of the 1/2" knockouts in the back of the fixture is evidence that they intended this fixture to serve as it's own junction box.
My question is: Does painted, textured drywall effectively close this large hole, when it's not in use? When using these fixtures, should I plan on always installing a box, or a blank, to close this large hole? Comments?
The microwave receptacle stuck in my craw. I opened the cabinet, looked again at the receptacle, and decided it was going to be a royal pain in the butt to change. I am responsible for every aspect of it's installation; I laid out the house, marked the height of the receptacle, pulled the NM, stripped it out, and later trimmed it.
Unfortunately, being a dummy, I sometimes have memory lapses. For some reason, I installed the box at 74" to the bottom of the box, not 76" like I usually do. I think it has something to do with the trick I use to remember the number: My sister was born in '74, the declaration of independence was written in '76, and for some reason these two numbers jumble themselves in my head. Nevermore.
As a result, the box just barely cleared the bottom of the cabinet. As a result, I had to trim the bottom of the plate to fit. I also had to snap off the (removable) plaster ears on the receptacle, so that it would go in. It completely covered the box opening, and seated against the receptacle face when installed.
At the rough, I had just trimmed a house where the stupid cabinet guys had forgotten to cut out the cabinet for my receptacles. The drywallers love to bury the microwave and disposal as well. So, to ensure that my box would be exposed on the trim, I slid that sucker well outside of the drywall. It stuck out a good 1/2" or better from the cabinet surface, when all was said and done.
Now, the inspector was saying that he wants it flush with the cabinet face.
I put a checkmark next to each item as it was completed, and then drew a short line through the beginning of the third item. I then simply wrote "See 314.20". Nothing else. I was paying particular attention to the second paragraph, which says:
We move on.
I get a call the next day, from the super's assistant: "I got a weird correction notice here, I thought you might be able to understand? It only says 'See 110.12, 406.5, and I need to see a letter from the manufacturer allowing field trimming of the receptacle coverplate.'"
"What's this about?" He asked.
"I'm having a p***ing contest with the inspector..."
"'Nuff said," he laughed. "But you better give in, the house closes tomorrow."
I spent an hour removing the existing box, cutting the cabinet just perfect, and installing a smart-box, taking pains to get a 1/4" of sheathing into it and installing a new coverplate. As a result of my effort, the insulation that was surrounding the existing box is all but gone. There is a 1/4" or better hole under the box (where the bottom of the box used to be), which is exactly concealed by the coverplate.
Afterwards, I apologized to the GC for the delay, and decided to never challenge a call from this jurisdiction ever again. I believe it will always prove fruitless.
So there are shades of gray in this story; I welcome all comments from all walks, and that includes any comments about the workmanship of the original installation.
Recently, the GC of my primary jobsite called me to let me know that one of my houses failed the trim inspection. When I asked how bad, he said "It's a long list, just a second... Okay, it actually looks like four items, but the second one is really long."
After a confusing verbal description of the notice, I rolled over to the house to make the corrections. The following is what I remember of the notice:
- Outlet box in island needs grounded
- Vanity fixtures need to be closed on the backside, either by installing a box or by installing a 4-square cover with a knockout for a fitting for the romex to enter through or something similar
- Receptacle for microwave needs to be flush with the back of the cabinet
- Arc Fault breaker for master bedroom doesn't trip
The first item was entirely my fault. I don't remember what circumstances prompted me to forget the bonding screw, but I couldn't believe it until I saw it with my own eyes. I was grateful he caught the mistake. (It's easy to spot the lack of a ground screw, the backside of the box is exposed inside the cabinet.)
The Arc Fault button was jammed, so I replaced the breaker.
The vanity fixtures came with 1/2" knockouts for romex to enter the back of the vanity, and also with a large hole in the center for a junction box behind the light. I didn't originally hang any of the vanities, so I'm not sure of the literature that came with them. I saw what I saw upon removal of the light to make corrections.
In all but one of the vanities, romex entered into the fixture through a 1/2" knockout, and the large hole was unused. My quick and easy solution was merely to pilot the dead-center of the hole, remove the fixture, and attach a pancake box to the back of the fixture. I then re-installed the fixture using the existing anchors in drywall (with factory-supplied mounting 'keyhole style' holes in the backplate of the fixture).
One fixture had romex entering the big hole, unbushed, but the original installer took pains to not damage the drywall behind the fixture. So, the drywall kept the romex from the edge of the backplate of the light. The pancake method worked out fine for this, as well. I agreed with the inspector's decision on this light, and this light alone. IMO, the presence of the 1/2" knockouts in the back of the fixture is evidence that they intended this fixture to serve as it's own junction box.
My question is: Does painted, textured drywall effectively close this large hole, when it's not in use? When using these fixtures, should I plan on always installing a box, or a blank, to close this large hole? Comments?
The microwave receptacle stuck in my craw. I opened the cabinet, looked again at the receptacle, and decided it was going to be a royal pain in the butt to change. I am responsible for every aspect of it's installation; I laid out the house, marked the height of the receptacle, pulled the NM, stripped it out, and later trimmed it.
Unfortunately, being a dummy, I sometimes have memory lapses. For some reason, I installed the box at 74" to the bottom of the box, not 76" like I usually do. I think it has something to do with the trick I use to remember the number: My sister was born in '74, the declaration of independence was written in '76, and for some reason these two numbers jumble themselves in my head. Nevermore.
As a result, the box just barely cleared the bottom of the cabinet. As a result, I had to trim the bottom of the plate to fit. I also had to snap off the (removable) plaster ears on the receptacle, so that it would go in. It completely covered the box opening, and seated against the receptacle face when installed.
At the rough, I had just trimmed a house where the stupid cabinet guys had forgotten to cut out the cabinet for my receptacles. The drywallers love to bury the microwave and disposal as well. So, to ensure that my box would be exposed on the trim, I slid that sucker well outside of the drywall. It stuck out a good 1/2" or better from the cabinet surface, when all was said and done.
Now, the inspector was saying that he wants it flush with the cabinet face.
I put a checkmark next to each item as it was completed, and then drew a short line through the beginning of the third item. I then simply wrote "See 314.20". Nothing else. I was paying particular attention to the second paragraph, which says:
We move on.
I get a call the next day, from the super's assistant: "I got a weird correction notice here, I thought you might be able to understand? It only says 'See 110.12, 406.5, and I need to see a letter from the manufacturer allowing field trimming of the receptacle coverplate.'"
"What's this about?" He asked.
"I'm having a p***ing contest with the inspector..."
"'Nuff said," he laughed. "But you better give in, the house closes tomorrow."
I spent an hour removing the existing box, cutting the cabinet just perfect, and installing a smart-box, taking pains to get a 1/4" of sheathing into it and installing a new coverplate. As a result of my effort, the insulation that was surrounding the existing box is all but gone. There is a 1/4" or better hole under the box (where the bottom of the box used to be), which is exactly concealed by the coverplate.
- I feel upset about the fact that the inspector was perfectly willing to trade one violation for another; his interpretation of 110.12 was traded for a blatant 314.21 violation without batting an eye.
- I am irritated that what I deemed to be an unfortunate but (IMO) forgiveable situation warranted a third trip, in his opinion.
- I am irritated that originally, I know full well that the trimmed coverplate would have been hunky-dory with the inspector, if I had simply moved the receptacle straight back. His official stance changed when I presented a code that allowed the aspect he originally took issue with.
- I am irritated that he pried the coverplate away from the receptacle, warping it, so that he could cite 406.5. I can walk through a house with a screwdriver and warp plates all day.
Afterwards, I apologized to the GC for the delay, and decided to never challenge a call from this jurisdiction ever again. I believe it will always prove fruitless.
So there are shades of gray in this story; I welcome all comments from all walks, and that includes any comments about the workmanship of the original installation.
