Looking for triangular "Plug Mold"

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dnem

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I know Plug Mold is a name brand like Kleenex and I'm looking for a Plug Mold or "Plug Mold" type of strip molding product that comes in a triangular design. . I've seen it on a jobsite before. . It's designed to be installed in the wall/cabinet crotch under the cabinet. . It has a top surface that goes up against the bottom of the upper kitchen cabinets. . It has a back surface that goes up against the wall. . And the face points down diagonally toward both the counter surface and out into the room. . And, of course, the face has receptacles in it every so many inches.

I kick myself for not writing down the brand name.

Anybody know how to find this product ?

David
 
Are you sure it wasn't regular PlugMold mounted on a triangle block? Mono Systems is another brand you might check, and Hubbel makes similar stuff too.
 
Agreed with Marc. Run a 2x through a table saw set at 45 deg, attach it to the cabinet bottom, and mount standard PlugMold to it.
 
508371715_4534a2c9aa.jpg



Is this at a 45 degree or just an optical illusion?
 
Thanks for all of the responses. . I hadn't considered that maybe I was looking at a standard product mounted on a 45? trim piece.

One more question:
Are you familiar with the capacity of different plug mold depths ?

A box is required for the thinner plug molds but I imagine once it plumps up to a certain depth, you have the room to make joints inside the plug mold. . Do you know one that allows 12gauge joints inside the track without a box ?

David
 
Interesting to note in Dennis' linked PDF that they're adamant about not using the W-30 connector on the EGC.

Using the rear-KO method would allow splitting the strip into two separate circuits by supplying with a 12/3 cable, but that would require using a 2-pole GFCI breaker.

You could get around this by using two 12/2's.
 
LarryFine said:
Interesting to note in Dennis' linked PDF that they're adamant about not using the W-30 connector on the EGC./QUOTE]
Very true, which is why I never enter through the back knockout. I either use an end entrance fitting, which has a ground screw and ample room for wire nuts. If I need to enter the middle, I use a shallow 2000 series box and come out of each side's twistouts.
Click to expand...
 
mdshunk said:
I either use an end entrance fitting, which has a ground screw and ample room for wire nuts.
Click to expand...

Now that you brought that up how are those boxes legal. I thought we are suppose to leave 6" of wire at every box--- art.300.14
 
Dennis Alwon said:
Now that you brought that up how are those boxes legal. I thought we are suppose to leave 6" of wire at every box--- art.300.14
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In my opniion it's not, as a means to splice into Plugmold. I do it anyhow. It's better than using the back knockout, which is even less legal, if you get what I mean (even shorter tails). The end entrance fitting is mostly to change from EMT to 2000 series raceway, and not really for junctions. I think the only legal way I can think of to connect into Plugmold would be to use a 2000 series box.
 
Dennis Alwon said:
Now that you brought that up how are those boxes legal. I thought we are suppose to leave 6" of wire at every box--- art.300.14
Click to expand...
Cut 12" out of the middle (not the conductors) and viola 6" each side...
 
In that Fig.2B on the Wiremold link, it shows double joints because there's no slack in the wire between plugs. . Since you would be adding the wire between the 2 joints plus adding the supply wires coming into the strip, you can make them as long as you want and have the 6" of slack.

Also I noticed that the fill chart in the link shows 6 #12s. . That would allow a 3wire circuit, a 2wire circuit, and a ground. . That would allow 3 different circuits in any one plugmold. . And if you don't use a 2pole GFCI you can still supply the plugmold with two 2wire circuits.

David
 
electricmanscott said:
Or just buy this stuff...

http://www.tasklighting.com/ap/angle-strip.htm
Click to expand...

That's it !

Thanks Scott !

That's what I was remembering from a couple years ago. . And the advantage to this product is that you have the volume of the strip for wirenuts where as if you use a standard plugmold mounted on a 45? cut wood, you lose the area of the wood for joints. . The area inside the plugmold is very limited.

I think I'll check out the options on this Task Lighting and see if there's any drawbacks that might point me back in the direction of straight plugmold with 45? wood backing.

David
 
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