luminaire outlet?

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mltech

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Ft. Lauderdale
I have an inspector who says that I must have an outlet for a low-bay light fuxture? We just finished 90k sq. ft. warehouse with 200+ highbays and passed with the fixtures wired w/ S.O. cord directly into a 1900 j-box.
Now different Muni, and inspector says 410.30 requires a receptacle?
I don't read this article as requiring an outlet, just needing to have the strain relief and not subject to damage.
Any thoughts are appreciated.
Mike
 
As I read the code, I disagree with your inspector ( but then, I sorta enjoy disagreeing lol). The only reference I see that REQUIRES an attachment plug is for electric discharge fixtures in 410.30(C). Electric discharge fixtures are fluorescent (unless I am thinking wrong). Low bay fixtures have "arc" lamps such as metal halide or high presure sodium. If I am thinking backwards about this, I'm sure someone will set me straight. Good Luck
 
I agree with the inspector also. You need to meet the conditions of 410.30(C)(1)(2)c. IMO you have not met the requirements of part c.


410.30(C) Electric-Discharge Luminaires (Fixtures).
(1) Cord Connected Installation. A listed luminaire (fixture) or a listed assembly shall be permitted to be cord connected if the following conditions apply:
(1) The luminaire (fixture) is located directly below the outlet or busway.
(2) The flexible cord meets all the following:
a. Is visible for its entire length outside the luminaire (fixture)
b. Is not subject to strain or physical damage
c. Is terminated in a grounding-type attachment plug cap or busway plug, or is a part of a listed assembly incorporating a manufactured wiring system connector in accordance with 604.6(C), or has a luminaire (fixture) assembly with a strain relief and canopy
 
Sorry, Trevor, but I disagree with the inspector, and with your take on the subject. I am willing to defer to your greater experience in this topic, as I have not designed a similar lighting system. But I do have two points to offer for your consideration, and they are based solely on the words that you have quoted.

First, that article says that you are ALLOWED to use a plug and cord connection, IF you meet the rules that follow. But what if you don?t want to use a plug and cord connection, and instead want to hard-wire a connection within a junction box? I think that is what the OP described.

Secondly, the sub-paragraph (c) that you put in bold text has three phrases, and they are separated by the word ?or.? That tells me you could choose to put in an outlet, or you could choose to use the manufactured wiring system connector, or you could choose to use a strain relief. You are not required to pick the first item on this list; you don?t have to install an outlet.
 
IMO the strain relief mantioned in the OP is not the same strain relief and canopy mentioned in the code section I posted. IMO this is the flexible cord and canopy with a strain relief:

736416170418.jpg
 
I don't think I've ever seen a high-bay with a strain relief. Normally, the cord, MC cable, or Reloc whip just passes through the hole in the hook. Kind of a goofy arrangement, in that regard.
 
"410.30(C) Electric-Discharge Luminaires (Fixtures).
(1) Cord Connected Installation. A listed luminaire (fixture) or a listed assembly shall be permitted to be cord connected if the following conditions apply: "

They key word here is SHALL BE PERMITTED.It is simply permitted.Nothing says its not permitted to connect the cord directly to the box.Use a strain relief cap with 1/2 threads and a locknut.
 
benaround said:
I have to disagree, It says if you want to use a cord,then you need to install a recpt.


I agree with you. The strain relief and canopy does not apply to this installation.
 
luminaire outlet

luminaire outlet

410.30(C)(1) listed luminaire or listed assembly SHALL be permitted to cord connectedif the following conditions apply: (1), (2) a. b. c. To me it seems perfectly clear. you need an outlet.
 
fixture assembly is the key..

fixture assembly is the key..

barbeer here is a buseway plugin link:

http://www.psihq.com/uecorp/b100obc.htm

I agree with infinity,, you would not need a plug if you were using a proper fixture assembly with strain relief and canopy... however the original poster did have this.. just a cord into a 1900 J box,, IMO no good...
 
MC cable to a 4 square would be okay. What I struggle with is how to compliantly terminate the MC cable at the hole in the hook of the high bay.
 
charlie b said:
First, that article says that you are ALLOWED to use a plug and cord connection, IF you meet the rules that follow. But what if you don?t want to use a plug and cord connection, and instead want to hard-wire a connection within a junction box? I think that is what the OP described.

You have partly nailed it down

If I want to use cord (notice they say plug and cord) I am allowed to if I follow all the rules.

If I don't follow all those rules it must connected using a Chapter 3 wiring method.
 
Jim W in Tampa said:
Think this out.What is safer ? A cord thru proper connection to 1900 or a plug and receptacle 20 feet up that wont ever be inspected till light goes out.

At 20' up IMO they are equally as safe.

The reason for the plug is simply....maintenance.

Places with HiBay lights often keep spares so you go up make a quick swap and bring the broken light down for service making it ready for the next use.
 
iwire said:
At 20' up IMO they are equally as safe.

The reason for the plug is simply....maintenance.

Places with HiBay lights often keep spares so you go up make a quick swap and bring the broken light down for service making it ready for the next use.

I agree. When we do maintenance on these things we remove them and work on the fixtures on the floor instead of on a scaffold or a lift. Our last large install had cord and plugs from the manufacturer that were of the locking type. Eliminates any possibility of the thing coming out at some time.
 
infinity said:
I agree. When we do maintenance on these things we remove them and work on the fixtures on the floor instead of on a scaffold or a lift. Our last large install had cord and plugs from the manufacturer that were of the locking type. Eliminates any possibility of the thing coming out at some time.

If they are the twist locking type then i agree they are great from maintenance view.Service could be handled by inhouse staff fast and no waiting.But this does add to cost.From reliability view the fewer connections the better.
 
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