Marina - High Neutral-Ground Voltage

Robert_in_MS

Member
Location
Madison, MS
Occupation
Mechanical Engineer
Hi Folks,

I’m in leadership, and have a small boat, at a local marina. We recently had new piers installed and there were issues with the electrical panels and pedestals which first showed up because I was getting a reverse polarity indication (RPL for brevity) in my 1981 vintage trawler. I checked and there was 7.45V between Neutral and Ground when the RPL was on. I then found big problems with the panels and wiring because I do have a good bit of experience with electrical systems and panels, I was a plant engineer at a manufacturing company for years. It was quite a mess, and I was asked to help, so we worked with the same professional electrical engineer to get the drawings revised and same contractor to get everything corrected. I have read thoroughly y’all’s Intro to Article 555 and a detailed article on ABYC Electrical Standard (by Jim? Gilwellbear, Mike is linked in it) which were very helpful in getting everything straightened out. I did search and read thru the forum but could not find enough information to fully help me with my continuing problem.

The system is 120V with 30A Shore Power (and 20A GFCI) receptacles fed from a main panel on land, then some 400 ft to a sub-panel in a boathouse, then to a sub-panel on the pier, then to the International Dock Products pedestals. Both before the redo of the panels and wiring, and now, I’ve confirmed that the 30A receptacles were/are wired properly, so my RPL is not actually reversed polarity in the wiring.

After everything was corrected and working fine for a number of days, last week my RPL came on again which prevents the AC power from operating in the boat. To troubleshoot, using an adapter, I plugged my shore power cable into an extension cord (I know that’s a nono) into the boathouse and found no RPL. Leaving the boat unplugged to talk to folks about what may have changed. I noticed the big boat next to me had their AC running again, evidently, they had an electrician fix something b/c that boat had been tripping their GFCI breaker (there was not a GFCI breaker before the panel was redone, when I got the 7.45V with their AC running). The next day when I plugged back into the pedestal, miraculously no more problem.

I did not have my meter last week so I could not test the voltages. Testing last night, serendipitously, I think I found part of the problem.
- With the AC running on the boat next to me I got:
N-G 5.63 V
L1-N 119.1 V
L1-G 113.8 V
- BUT when the AC turned OFF on the boat next to me I got:
N-G 1.84 V
L1-N 120.6 V
L1-G 118.8 V

I know that the N-G voltage should be zero or certainly less than 1V and I suspect what is tripping my RPL is N-G high voltage (it would be nice to understand why this is). I tried to talk to the EE about this, but he basically blew me off and said 5-7 volts N-G is normal. Well of course it is not, so I need some help determining if there is something amiss with the pier wiring/bonding? and if it that is related to my neighbors AC running causing the N-G voltage to double. I want to get it fixed before somebody potentially gets shocked and have an intelligent conversation with the EE, contractor and boat neighbor. I realize I’m more of an “end user” but given my responsibilities and experience, I hope y’all will indulge in helping me.

Link to 4 photos:
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/vlmu...ey=rjp8lmsua4yrqkr17aovazmq3&st=p4z6b8hs&dl=0

Thanks so much, ROBERT
 
Agree with Ramsy, although it's a weak neutral (e.g. loosening connection somewhere) rather than actually open (disconnected). High resistance on the neutral would also cause higher voltage drop on the neutral, which can explain the relatively high N-G voltage. The N-G voltage is the voltage drop on the neutral between where you're measuring and where they are bonded together.
 
Thanks so much y'all

A couple of clarifications:
- This is a freshwater lake so at least we can eliminate salt water corrosion.
- To minimize cost, only the drop from the boathouse panel to the new pier panel is new.

Also, the 2 Air Conditioners on the larger boat draw 20A (total), can I assume that the increased N-G voltage drop is also a result of that load?
The N-G voltage is the voltage drop on the neutral between where you're measuring and where they are bonded together.
Should I look for the bonding in any/all of the sub-panels? looking at the ground bus and lugs and the receptacle, it appears there is no bond in the pedestal.
I don't want to uncover the busses in the panels until I have to (I will get an electrician involved to to that) but I do have the ability to test the receptacles fed:
- Directly from the Main Panel (at the launching ramp)
- Directly from the boathouse panel

ROBERT
 
Thanks so much y'all

A couple of clarifications:
- This is a freshwater lake so at least we can eliminate salt water corrosion.
- To minimize cost, only the drop from the boathouse panel to the new pier panel is new.

Also, the 2 Air Conditioners on the larger boat draw 20A (total), can I assume that the increased N-G voltage drop is also a result of that load?

Should I look for the bonding in any/all of the sub-panels? looking at the ground bus and lugs and the receptacle, it appears there is no bond in the pedestal.
I don't want to uncover the busses in the panels until I have to (I will get an electrician involved to to that) but I do have the ability to test the receptacles fed:
- Directly from the Main Panel (at the launching ramp)
- Directly from the boathouse panel

ROBERT

The N-G bond is required to be (only) at the meter or service disconnect (in most all cases). Start there and follow the neutral until you find evidence of a poor connection.
 
@retired... Will do!

And, Now knowing better what to look for, I found this below on the SailboatOwners forum... and it goes to my question above about the Air Cond. load causing the higher N-G voltage. I suspect you guys went right to the problem b/c you already knew why the RPL was on. But in the event somebody comes along with a similar problem in a boat/marina.

Excerpting from Nigel Calder’s Boatowners Mechanical and Electrical Manual: “Wired as described, a reverse polarity indicator will sometimes come on even when there is no reverse polarity. This situation is most likely when some high-load AC equipment is operating in a condition where there is undersized wiring or resistance in the neutral connection to the shore. Instead of the neutral wire being held at ground potential by its shoreside connection to ground, it will experience a voltage drop from the load to the ground connection, resulting in the neutral on board being above ground potential. This may cause the reverse polarity indicator to alarm. So although you will not have a reverse polarity situation, you will have a situation that needs attention.” (Emphasis mine, as a loose connection would cause resistance.)

Basically, the reverse polarity detector works by checking for voltage between Netrual and Ground. If it sees voltage there it doesn’t know whether that’s from actual reverse polarity (Neutral carrying 120V) or because the Neutral is floating at some level above ground because of resistance in the circuit.


ROBERT
 
I noticed in the photos that you have two wires landed on one side of lugs and three on the other. I am a little confused by what you have going on in that splice. It seems to be parallel #10 circuits (against code)? Also double landed on a single lug (might not be listed for two conductors on a single lug).

You also have a reduced EGC size in one conduit and a full size in the other.

I would also be interested in seeing the panel wiring to this splice box and any voltage measurements that can be taken from there with your neighbor's AC running. A measurement on the feeder N-G bars in the panel and voltage on the phases to the splice box (the breaker(s) that feed it)
 
Elect117,

Sorry about using the photo from BEFORE the wiring was fixed, as I said it was bad. I was thinking more about the neutral & ground. Please see link, I added a photo of the pedestal taken a little while ago.

ROBERT
 
Elect117,

Sorry about using the photo from BEFORE the wiring was fixed, as I said it was bad. I was thinking more about the neutral & ground. Please see link, I added a photo of the pedestal taken a little while ago.

ROBERT

That looks a lot better hahaha. I would still be interested in the panelboard wiring if/when you have an electrician come out.
 
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