Mast Service
- Thread starter T74
- Start date
- Status
- Location
- Tennessee NEC:2017
- Occupation
- Semi-Retired Electrician
I usually look out for wasps/bees this time of year!
What exactly do you want to know?
What exactly do you want to know?
KnightPower
Member
- Location
- US
I would that a look at 230 Part II. Especially .24, .26 & .28. Oh and make sure that you know your utilitys minimum requirement.
electrofelon
Senior Member
- Location
- Cherry Valley NY, Seattle, WA
Plan it out real well. Finding studs for the strut can be tricky. Look inside, outside, and in the attic for evidence. If no luck, I do trial and error with a small drill bit just under a siding lap and cover them with caulk.
Play with the meter and the strut to figure out where exactly they want to be on the siding - what plane will work for everything. Double check everything. Note the meter hub can be rotated to give you several offset options for the mast. Getting the two mast holes to line up is tricky. In Washington, the hole is supposed to be a snug fit. I usually drill the lower hole with a 2 3/8 holesaw and wobble it around a bit to enlarge it a bit so I dont have to fight getting the mast through. What is slick is to buy a long 1/4" bit for the holesaw arbor so it will transfer through to the roof hole. Another trick is to make a plumb line on the siding and use an extension on the holesaw and eye it to the line while drilling to keep it plumb.
Depending on where in the shingle laps the hole is, you may need to have the boot in place before putting the mast in. Take the time to carefully trim the shingles where you need to accommodate the boot.
Be a little more specific- a mast for what? Is there a soffit? etc
Got a plumb bob, laser, good level......?
Thanks. It's a mast for a service. The house is a single story ranch and the mast will go through a soffit.
I was looking for any advice on lining up the the upper and lower holes for the pipe. Also, any advice on mounting the roof boot/dealing with shingles etc.
- Location
- Tennessee NEC:2017
- Occupation
- Semi-Retired Electrician
Run the hole saw w/long bit up from the bottom, don't try to drill all the way, just enough to get the long bit through the roof. Now go up on the roof and carefully cut out the shingles the approx. size of the hole saw. Now take the hole saw/bit and place the bit in the hole. That will keep you at the same angle that is was from beneath.
Hold the drill firm and start drilling slow until it gets a good start, then finish the hole. It will be, if done right, a close fit. Even if it's off a little the boot will cover it.
Plan "B" is to use an old worn hole saw on the roof without cutting the shingles first. That way you won't ruin a new saw.
Better plan is to borrow the plumbers hole saw!:angel:
Hold the drill firm and start drilling slow until it gets a good start, then finish the hole. It will be, if done right, a close fit. Even if it's off a little the boot will cover it.
Plan "B" is to use an old worn hole saw on the roof without cutting the shingles first. That way you won't ruin a new saw.
Better plan is to borrow the plumbers hole saw!:angel:
meternerd
Senior Member
- Location
- Athol, ID
- Occupation
- retired water & electric utility electrician, meter/relay tech
If it's a utility service, be sure your utility allows mast (periscope) type service connections. Ours did not. Snow shedding, tree limbs through service drops, etc. caused much more damage when the service was the mast type. It also was much more difficult to inspect the service connection when the mast was under several feet of snow.
goldstar
Senior Member
- Location
- New Jersey
- Occupation
- Electrical Contractor
All the advice was good so far. You can check out page 126 of this PSE&G manual. It's typical and I'm sure at least close to what your POCO may require. I would find out if your POCO has a manual either in print or on-line and reference that.
https://www.pseg.com/business/builders/new_service/before/pdf/RequirementsElecSvc.pdf
https://www.pseg.com/business/builders/new_service/before/pdf/RequirementsElecSvc.pdf
kwired
Electron manager
- Location
- NE Nebraska
- Occupation
- EC
I find the steeper the roof pitch the more likely the 1/4" bit tries to climb to higher level before it starts drilling through, then your holes don't line up.
cutting shingles, fitting the roof flashing, remember that water has to run off one piece and onto the next piece lower, never have upper end on top of any shingles, it will always be pushed under the shingles that are on the high end of the flashing but on top of shingles on the low end of the flashing.
- Status