Materials Help - Please

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busman

Senior Member
Location
Northern Virginia
Occupation
Master Electrician / Electrical Engineer
Does anyone know of an old-work box that will accept a 6/3 WG romex for a range receptacle? There are lots for new work, but can't find one for old-work.

Thanks,

Mark
 
Re: Materials Help - Please

can you take a new work 2 gang box, cut off the area where the nails are, stick the wire in the normal spots and screw the box from the inside to a stud. as in you cut the drywall tight up next to a stud?
 
Re: Materials Help - Please

"can you take a new work 2 gang box, cut off the area where the nails are, stick the wire in the normal spots and screw the box from the inside to a stud. as in you cut the drywall tight up next to a stud? "
Would it work yes, but you have altered a ul listed item.Would ganging 2 old work boxes not be easier??? :confused:
 
Re: Materials Help - Please

All,

Thanks for the replies. That was my original point - that there are lots of 2-gang old-work boxes, but none that I have found with clamps for a 6/3. I have seen special new-work boxes for dryers/ranges. Yes, I guess a pair of deep gem boxes would work with madison straps, it just seemed that there should be a better way.

My other option is to cut a hole close to a stud and put a 1900 deep with a plater ring. Secure the box to the stud.

Thanks,

Mark
 
Re: Materials Help - Please

I use the surface mount method pretty much exclusively. Too much hassle cutting the wall, mounting box and wrasslin thick wires. Id use caution with the madison clamp method, that box could get shoved through the drywall with a new recep. :eek:
 
Re: Materials Help - Please

Originally posted by jimwalker:
Would it work yes, but you have altered a ul listed item.Would ganging 2 old work boxes not be easier??? :confused:
No, there is a lot more room in a 2 gang nail on than in 2 ganged old work boxes. It's not usually easier to cut a hole in the middle of 2 studs than next to 1, though it sometimes is. you can screw the box directly to the stud, holding it tighter than trying to work a 10-3 romex into a box held to the wall by a combination of box ears and madison straps, and you don't have to worry about tearing the sheetrock and shoving the whole deal into the wall when you push the device into the box, than just put the plate on and figure that will hold it from going into the wall. You do have to alter a UL listed piece of plastic to do it this way, yes, but it makes for a very nice installation and there was a time when carlon and arlington were not racing to come up with a plastic contraption for every occasion.
 
Re: Materials Help - Please

Just couldn't resist replying to this post. I use what they call an RD30 box that has a flap on it for new construction. I haven't ever came across needing a remodel box for 220v. Anyway wanted to share something I saw walking through a new $250,000/$300,000 house checking out other electricians work. They use a 2 gang box and drill a 3/4 inch hole in it and use a 3/4 romex connector. I don't know if anyone else is doing this, but once again I'm not one of those contractors that will wire your house for $300 profit.

Gerns
 
Re: Materials Help - Please

I find it best to use a drawn (not welded) 1900 deep box, drill a couple extra holes in the side near the back, slip it into the wall, pull and clamp the cable, attach the drywall ring, then screw it to the stud with 4 screws, spackle and stainless cover. It may take a little longer but it will never pull out or get pushed in. Maybe I'm a fanatic but I also test fan boxes by hanging my full weight from the fan bracket...in 23 years I've never had one of mine fall.

[ January 08, 2006, 03:59 PM: Message edited by: DaveTap ]
 
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