Max weight for cheap canopy guess ?

[ritelec]

Installed a glass chandelier.

It did not have a canopy kit.

The chain was on a hook.

Installed box and used a Home Depot lowes canopy kit.

http://m.lowes.com/pd/Portfolio-Aged-Brass-Lamp-Canopy-Kit/3659354

Bracket goes to box. Two screws come thru the bracket thru plate with two nuts to secure plate. Eye hook mounts to plate.

Looks like the screws and nuts are 8 32 ?? But thinner ?? Cheap Chinese metal

Trying to search how much weight that kit will hold

The only info I can locate is that it's mentioned that the box supported to framing should be rated for fifty pounds.

Should I assume that they would make this canopy rated for fifty pounds if they mention that in the directions on the packing.

I hate to assume.


Thank you.


Let me add one more question.

I had to get creative installing the box in a peak of a ceiling and using some wood and deep round to get it low enough for this canopy.

I had a regular depth round and an extension round on the truck which would have been close to the depth needed. I opted for the wood and deep box. May not be the smartest thing to use an extension box for a chandelier but is there any articles against using one ? Just wondering.


Little nervous about the canopy. I feel good the way it is. But. I think there maybe be extra glass added to it.


Was my aunts. The home owner is my cousin. If it comes down I won't hear the end of it :- ).


Watch those feeler bits. I picked up a 54" long x 1/2 inch to go thru several roof joists.

I thought I could bend it enough to get it to go straight across from the bed room to an attic area.


Turns out. It went up a bit on an angle and went thru the gap that's left at the peak of the roof for roof venting and lifted up some peak shingles which I had to lay back down nail and tar. (We're talking way up there) Rains coming so I hope no leaks and the light stays up.

Geez.

 

[GoldDigger]

Watch those feeler bits. I picked up a 54" long x 1/2 inch to go thru several roof joists.

I thought I could bend it enough to get it to go straight across from the bed room to an attic area.


Turns out. It went up a bit on an angle and went thru the gap that's left at the peak of the roof for roof venting and lifted up some peak shingles which I had to lay back down nail and tar. (We're talking way up there) Rains coming so I hope no leaks and the light stays up.

Geez.

There are curved "shoes" that you can use to force the part of the bit that is going into the wood to be at the correct angle. Works better than just trying to manually curve the bit from the drill end.
You still may need to make corrections as you hit the midpoint, even if you have to make a hole to do it. Thin sheet metal can crack and tear.

PS: In the setups I am familiar with the canopy is not part of the load bearing structure, just decorative.

 

[ritelec]

I know the tool your taking about.

Wonder if that wood have worked.

If the hole was open to get my hand in there would have been different

The hole was cut straight up into the peak of the ceiling so the main beam was running center of the opening and about an inch of opening to each side of the cut out to drill

After the roof repair. I tryed from the attic to the hole. The bed ceiling joists are perpendicular to the attic roof joists they left one bay open about three foot high with an AC duct I front of it that I was able to contort thru
, fully insulated, and drill to hole. The length of the bit just fit in that area and as could end the bit enough to keep it straight lucked out that the carpenters weren't the greatest and there were small gaps between the roof joist where they met the peak joist or beam that I was able to slide the bit up in that 1/4 inch gap and keep it straight from joist to joist

Terrible.

 

[John120/240]

Let me add one more question.

I had to get creative installing the box in a peak of a ceiling and using some wood and deep round to get it low enough for this canopy.

I had a regular depth round and an extension round on the truck which would have been close to the depth needed. I opted for the wood and deep box. May not be the smartest thing to use an extension box for a chandelier but is there any articles against using one ? Just wondering.


Geez.

For LARGE chandeliers & such always used a box with 10-32 threads. Steel City or Raco have them. For vaulted ceilings when the box is at the peak, the trim carpenter would build a wood box around the electrical box. Some times the fixture had a aircraft cable security wire that had to be secured in the attic.

 

[ritelec]

Where's Waldo ????????????????????????????

Where's Waldo ????????????????????????????

can you locate the feeler bit ???

 

[ritelec]

My son has weights............ I picked up the 35 lb and a 25 lb... tried to hold it in one hand as I did the chandelier with out all the glass on it...

25lbs or 35 is pretty heavy........ not even close........... I picked up a 10 lb.....thinking it to be more like 10 to 15 lbs...

with extra glass would be heavier, but I'm thinking not 35 or more pounds ??? (wishful thinking)


I googled screw strength...... as mentioned not sure about the quality of chinese hardware......... it was a screw and thin 8-32 nut..

Googled screw strength and see 8-32 at 55lbs ........ x's 2 should be 100lbs or maybe 60 or 75lbs ????...chinese factor = 55lbs ???


Wishful thinking