Maximum dryer cord length and NEC

[prattz99]

Hi,

I have a customer who is looking to have a longer 5' dryer cord to energize his now stackable dryer. The question I'm having is a longer than 5' cord code compliant? I see there are cords up to 10' on amazon but they are not UL listed. Also I looked in the code book 210.52 (f) and didn't see anything about the cords having to be accessible. Is that true for both the washer and dryer? I don't like the idea of the cord not being UL listed.

 

[augie47]

Somewhat a mute point as 210.50(C) requires receptacle outlets in dwellings for specific appliances to be installed within 6 ft of the appliance.
Likely why you don't find any 10 listed cords.

 

[JFletcher]

If you are not rewiring the house, there is no inspection, no Code issue with using a 10' cord. The HO moving the washer/dryer or going to a stacked unit does create a violation if the receptacle is further away than required, but that is not on the EC any more than them building shelves across or piling stuff in front of the panel is.

This topic has come up before and iirc, the cord does not have to be UL listed. I'd try to convince the HO to move or run a new cable to a new dryer outlet before taking the back panel off and wiring up a 10' cord. Better that than a handyman rigging something or the HO trying to get creative with an extension cord.

Personally, I'm not losing any sleep at night over a 4' longer cord than factory (most are 6' long, not 5'), which is likely 8ga anyway and overkill for a dryer on a 30A circuit.

 

[prattz99]

It is new construction and there will be a final inspection. I don't know what to think about it, I'd be okay with it if it was UL approved. Maybe a 6' cord would reach.... It's just so stupid and could have been easily avoided.

 

[JFletcher]

It is new construction and there will be a final inspection. I don't know what to think about it, I'd be okay with it if it was UL approved. Maybe a 6' cord would reach.... It's just so stupid and could have been easily avoided.

Well, if the customer changed his/her mind on side by side units and is now going with a stackable, then change order charge to move it. Not sure why you'd have to unless they changed the location around too, in which case, $$$ for you.

 

[prattz99]

That's a whole nother story with this guy. He wants to cry about labor cost but has no problem spending $5K on switches. I just want out of there.

 

[JFletcher]

That's a whole nother story with this guy. He wants to cry about labor cost but has no problem spending $5K on switches. I just want out of there.

I've had customers brag to me and want to spend a half hour of my time telling me about their rare, Rimini-quarried Italian tiger-striped marble custom countertops that cost 10k+, and in the same breath complain about a $20 GFCI receptacle over said countertop. If he wants to cry about it, tell him that the (extreme duty, 240V, 30 Ampere-hour, recessed mount, American made, etc,) receptacle and heavy-duty, double gang, fireproof steel box costs $90 and that you'll move/rewire it for $40 (instead of $15 for the recep/box and $115 for labor). I've seen people spend that for in-wall TV kits with the male plug sticking out, needs an extension cord to a nearby receptacle, when hardwiring a $2 receptacle would have been cheaper and a better install.

Sell it as parts instead of labor, or mention that a failed final inspection will cost $50+ more to re-inspect, which is completely true. Either way, you are not screwing yourself or the customer. He gets what he needs, you get the money you need to install it.

Customers like yours arent the worst; the worst are ones that try to Amazon or eBay parts you need, then complain bitterly when you give them a laundry list of reasons why you can't provide x part at y price.

 

[norcal]

Another thought is the W/D does not need to be installed at final unless built in. Moving the receptacle would be best IMO.

 

[jaylectricity]

It is new construction and there will be a final inspection. I don't know what to think about it, I'd be okay with it if it was UL approved. Maybe a 6' cord would reach.... It's just so stupid and could have been easily avoided.

The appliance does not have to be in place for the final inspection. Make sure it's not.

 

[FionaZuppa]

The appliance does not have to be in place for the final inspection. Make sure it's not.

so you are advocating doing something that you know in the end would be a NEC violation?

 

[jaylectricity]

so you are advocating doing something that you know in the end would be a NEC violation?

I'm not advocating anything of the sort. The dryer is not part of the EC's job. I'm advocating for the EC to do his job. What his customer chooses to do after he leaves is not his problem.

 

[kwired]

If you are not rewiring the house, there is no inspection, no Code issue with using a 10' cord. The HO moving the washer/dryer or going to a stacked unit does create a violation if the receptacle is further away than required, but that is not on the EC any more than them building shelves across or piling stuff in front of the panel is.

This topic has come up before and iirc, the cord does not have to be UL listed. I'd try to convince the HO to move or run a new cable to a new dryer outlet before taking the back panel off and wiring up a 10' cord. Better that than a handyman rigging something or the HO trying to get creative with an extension cord.

Personally, I'm not losing any sleep at night over a 4' longer cord than factory (most are 6' long, not 5'), which is likely 8ga anyway and overkill for a dryer on a 30A circuit.

Just because there is no inspection doesn't mean there isn't NEC violations, it just means no inspector is going to call out the violations. All the manufactured dryer pigtails (NEMA 10-30 and 14-30) I ever recall using only had 10 ga conductors. Some range pigtails only have 8 ga conductors and others have 6 ga conductors though.

I'm not advocating anything of the sort. The dryer is not part of the EC's job. I'm advocating for the EC to do his job. What his customer chooses to do after he leaves is not his problem.

I agree, unless maybe it is obvious a spot is intended for the appliance (like the vent duct for a dryer is run to that spot) and the outlet for such appliance is more then 6 feet away.

Why can't OP make a surface extension from existing outlet and surface raceway to the new location, if it is reasonably close but more then 6 feet away? Will not be any more or less ugly then an extra long cord will it?

 

[GoldDigger]

I see a receptacle 6' away horizontally as being code compliant. But with the dryer at the top of the stack and the cord exit at the top of the dryer a 6' cord might not reach.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

 

[JFletcher]

Just because there is no inspection doesn't mean there isn't NEC violations, it just means no inspector is going to call out the violations. All the manufactured dryer pigtails (NEMA 10-30 and 14-30) I ever recall using only had 10 ga conductors. Some range pigtails only have 8 ga conductors and others have 6 ga conductors though.

True, I was just mentioning that the HO is creating the violation, not the electrician. But since this is a new construction job that will get an inspection, the HO has to pay for a proper install.

I agree, unless maybe it is obvious a spot is intended for the appliance (like the vent duct for a dryer is run to that spot) and the outlet for such appliance is more then 6 feet away.

Why can't OP make a surface extension from existing outlet and surface raceway to the new location, if it is reasonably close but more then 6 feet away? Will not be any more or less ugly then an extra long cord will it?

He could and that will be preferable with a tight HO not wanting to cut open finished walls to run a new circuit or moving the old (if it'll reach). If this was on rough in, I assume the OP would have already moved the existing dryer receptacle or used it as a j-box and run more wire to a closer location.

Back on topic, provided it's routed to not get damaged or be a trip hazard, is there any safety issue with using a 10' non-listed cord vs a 6' listed one? Has there ever been a news story of a dryer/electrical fire caused by using a longer cord here?

Realistically/practically, I'd prefer moving the box or using surface raceway over using a longer cord, especially if a stacked washer/dryer is already in place (which it isnt here).

And you're right, most dryer cords are 10ga not 8. There are even 25' dryer extension cords out there:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/25-ft-SJOOW-10-3-30-Amp-3-Prong-Dryer-Extension-Cord-1030PR-025/301636618

Tho the 6 and 10' cords that I Google'd are commonly made by Sela. One is listed, the other isnt. Aside from 4 extra feet and the listing, I'm willing to bet they are identically constructed.

On an aside, my laundry room has two dryer receptacles. They are both within 6' of the dryer, however the one that isnt being used would need a 10' dryer cord to reach it as it's on the wrong wall and the dryer cord cannot be routed the shortest distance (as the crow flies). It would have to go behind the washer, 90 around it, and up a few feet. and if that were the only receptacle, I'd put a 10' cord on it in a heartbeat rather than tear open plaster walls, but this is my house, NEC doesnt always apply here.

 

[jaylectricity]

I agree, unless maybe it is obvious a spot is intended for the appliance (like the vent duct for a dryer is run to that spot) and the outlet for such appliance is more then 6 feet away.

And you just tell the electrical inspector that there was a mixup and they're going to have to extend the vent to the proper location for the dryer. Not his or your problem.

I mean, it's not ideal to have to do stuff like that. For a laundry room I think your suggestion of surface mounting an extension of permanent wiring is a good one.

Funny thing is, I actually made a cord for a dryer that was longer than a typical dryer cord because they had to switch the washer and dryer (not a stackable). Did we get a code reference on that? Are you only allowed to use listed cords on a dryer? Seems like it's a "field installed" item. It's not like you're using an extension cord. The cord is electrically connected at the dryer and electrically connected at the cord cap. I don't really see a problem with it.

 

[kwired]

And you just tell the electrical inspector that there was a mixup and they're going to have to extend the vent to the proper location for the dryer. Not his or your problem.

I mean, it's not ideal to have to do stuff like that. For a laundry room I think your suggestion of surface mounting an extension of permanent wiring is a good one.

Funny thing is, I actually made a cord for a dryer that was longer than a typical dryer cord because they had to switch the washer and dryer (not a stackable). Did we get a code reference on that? Are you only allowed to use listed cords on a dryer? Seems like it's a "field installed" item. It's not like you're using an extension cord. The cord is electrically connected at the dryer and electrically connected at the cord cap. I don't really see a problem with it.

When it comes down to what the AHJ should accept, I think it will come down to listing and instructions included with the listing of the dryer, just like it does with dishwashers, disposers, and range hoods.