Meg Testing

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Little Bill

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Tennessee NEC:2017
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Semi-Retired Electrician
If you were going to do a meg test on NM conductors should you remove the neutral from the neutral bar or can it stay?
I was called to check/repair the wiring in a house that was in the tornado that hit here. There was an electrical inspection done by others. They had two circuits tagged as failed. I checked them with my megohmeter and one failed and one passed. I noticed the conductors were tie wrapped in the panel and the neutral was still in the bundle so I know they just clipped their lead to the neutral bar without isolating it. I did isolate the neutral on my test.

The one that failed on my test was reading through a GFCI. I'm sure they did the same thing I did. The panel read like it was an individual circuit marked as "refrigerator". When I pulled the receptacle the fridge was on I decided to tone it to see if anything else was on it. Apparently the fridge was the first outlet before going to the SABC then fed to a GFCI.
Not sure why the other circuit failed on their test but passed on mine. I figure maybe the conductors were wet or they were reading through something that later was removed.
 
I got 550Mg reading
I used 500V for one minute
550Mg is a fail? Am I understanding that this means 550 million ohms? It seems that things would work just fine with a 550 mega-ohm reading. I don't think you could read the current that would flow through this resistance at 120-volts (using the equipment that is typically on an electricians truck).

What am I missing?
 
550Mg is a fail? Am I understanding that this means 550 million ohms? It seems that things would work just fine with a 550 mega-ohm reading. I don't think you could read the current that would flow through this resistance at 120-volts (using the equipment that is typically on an electricians truck).

What am I missing?
I should have said 550M was what I read on the circuit that passed. Anything below 2M I consider a fail.
 
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