Microwave tripping dual function afci/gfci

Eddie702

Licensed Electrician
Location
Western Massachusetts
Occupation
Electrician
Back in June I took out our old range hood. It was just a recirculating hood. Found the 15amp 120 volt circuit that fed it came out of a switch box and disconnected it and abandoned cable in the wall. Installed a new 20A circuit from the panel and put it on a new Eaton dual function 20A breaker (older Murray panel) and put the receptacle in the cabinet above the microwave.

That was all good except the new microwave was defective. It would tun on and heat, but the turntable would not turn. The motor shaft coming up through the bottom was too short to engage the turntable.

Service tech came out (I wasn't home) and he said they didn't install the motor screws right, so the motor had sunk down making the shaft too short. He said they would replace it with a new microwave.

Had to wait 3 weeks for that but when installed all was well and it operated fine every day.....untill this morning I went to heat up a frozen bagel and it started and then immediately tripped the breaker. JUNK
 

Seven-Delta-FortyOne

Goin’ Down In Flames........
Location
Humboldt
Occupation
EC and GC
Appliances are crap right now.

They could make a refrigerator in the ‘70’s that still runs today, but a new one won’t last 5 years.
 

Little Bill

Moderator
Staff member
Location
Tennessee NEC:2017
Occupation
Semi-Retired Electrician
Back in June I took out our old range hood. It was just a recirculating hood. Found the 15amp 120 volt circuit that fed it came out of a switch box and disconnected it and abandoned cable in the wall. Installed a new 20A circuit from the panel and put it on a new Eaton dual function 20A breaker (older Murray panel) and put the receptacle in the cabinet above the microwave.

That was all good except the new microwave was defective. It would tun on and heat, but the turntable would not turn. The motor shaft coming up through the bottom was too short to engage the turntable.

Service tech came out (I wasn't home) and he said they didn't install the motor screws right, so the motor had sunk down making the shaft too short. He said they would replace it with a new microwave.

Had to wait 3 weeks for that but when installed all was well and it operated fine every day.....untill this morning I went to heat up a frozen bagel and it started and then immediately tripped the breaker. JUNK
I would put a regular breaker in and see what happens. If it holds, and the MW works, I would forget that the breaker was changed!
 

BarryO

Senior Member
Location
Bend, OR
Occupation
Electrical engineer (retired)
Is it a GE? Did the fuse in the microwave blow? The interlock circuitry in these things are really wonky. If malfunctioning they can cause the breaker to trip.
 

RCC1

Member
Location
Michigan
Occupation
Retired - E&I Maintenance Superintendent
Is it a GE? Did the fuse in the microwave blow? The interlock circuitry in these things are really wonky. If malfunctioning they can cause the breaker to trip.
Your right, my over the stove micro wave did the similar thing. As soon as the microwave was told to start the circuit breaker would trip (internal fuse never blew). When I opened the unit up there was a very nice schematic inside. There are three door limit switches. Two are N.O. to prove the door is shut and is used for the logic to start the microwave. The last switch is a N. C. switch. This normally close switch is suppose to open when the door is shut. If it doers not open those closed contacts, which are in parallel the Magnetron input power, the short will trip your breaker when the start button is pressed. I repositions the N.C. limit switch mounting hardware and everything was fine. Was on a Hotpoint brand microwave, manufactured by GE.
 

BarryO

Senior Member
Location
Bend, OR
Occupation
Electrical engineer (retired)
Your right, my over the stove micro wave did the similar thing. As soon as the microwave was told to start the circuit breaker would trip (internal fuse never blew). When I opened the unit up there was a very nice schematic inside. There are three door limit switches. Two are N.O. to prove the door is shut and is used for the logic to start the microwave. The last switch is a N. C. switch. This normally close switch is suppose to open when the door is shut. If it doers not open those closed contacts, which are in parallel the Magnetron input power, the short will trip your breaker when the start button is pressed. I repositions the N.C. limit switch mounting hardware and everything was fine. Was on a Hotpoint brand microwave, manufactured by GE.
Yep, BTDT. It's nice they include the schematic inside the case.
 
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