motor operated gates
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macmikeman
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- Planet macmikeman
Re: motor operated gates
I did my share of em at an airport security project long while back. You stick the two solid conductors you are using for the loop into your cordless drill and spin em up so they look like cat 5. It usually takes 3 loops around the loop cut. Make sure you seal up the cut real good after wire is in so you do not get water seepage as it can cause funny stuff to happen with the loop detector. Best thing to use a gate/fence contractor for all gate hanging work , experience counts.
I did my share of em at an airport security project long while back. You stick the two solid conductors you are using for the loop into your cordless drill and spin em up so they look like cat 5. It usually takes 3 loops around the loop cut. Make sure you seal up the cut real good after wire is in so you do not get water seepage as it can cause funny stuff to happen with the loop detector. Best thing to use a gate/fence contractor for all gate hanging work , experience counts.
charlie tuna
Senior Member
- Location
- Florida
Re: motor operated gates
yes i have done plenty of them and there isn't too much to it. get the correct layout of the loop in relation to the gate or ticket spitter is important!!! cut the loop -- usually it calls for #14 wire and will tell you the minimum number of turns or twists per foot required in the loop wire. layout the wire and add extra to make up for all the twists--you'll be suprised how much this adds to the length! you have to over spin it because some turns will come out when you release the wire from the drill and also while your installing it! install the wire and secure it in place with tooth picks or wedges below grade. i use a self leveling caulk with silicon base that sets up in one hour -- use two coats to over fill the saw cut and bond to the surface concrete. hay, it's electrical work---i do it!!!
yes i have done plenty of them and there isn't too much to it. get the correct layout of the loop in relation to the gate or ticket spitter is important!!! cut the loop -- usually it calls for #14 wire and will tell you the minimum number of turns or twists per foot required in the loop wire. layout the wire and add extra to make up for all the twists--you'll be suprised how much this adds to the length! you have to over spin it because some turns will come out when you release the wire from the drill and also while your installing it! install the wire and secure it in place with tooth picks or wedges below grade. i use a self leveling caulk with silicon base that sets up in one hour -- use two coats to over fill the saw cut and bond to the surface concrete. hay, it's electrical work---i do it!!!
Re: motor operated gates
let's say you are doing a 3 wire loop, how deep you make the cut or how much space there is between wire (after the 3 loops) and grade level? and some manufactures recomend a backer rod to make sure that the wire is held firm in the sawcut, any idea what this is? Thanks for the input, guys!
let's say you are doing a 3 wire loop, how deep you make the cut or how much space there is between wire (after the 3 loops) and grade level? and some manufactures recomend a backer rod to make sure that the wire is held firm in the sawcut, any idea what this is? Thanks for the input, guys!
macmikeman
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Re: motor operated gates
If I remember corectly, it was about 2 inches or so deep. Get some of those tongue depressors from a medical supply to use for push sticks to get the twisted wire down into the slot. We never did use any backer rods, but sometimes it was a bit hard to get the wire to stay in the slot while the sealant goop is applied.. I think that's what the backer rod is for. A good shop vac is great for cleaning out the slot prior to installing the loop wire. We would run 3/4" pvc buried out to the begining of the loop from inside the gate operator, (they usually have a big cut out on the bottom for this purpose. Then we backfilled and paved over the pipe. We did not go 24" deep with the pipe. I think we are talking .5 volts here. WE had a 100 per cent success rate with this stuff, it isn't so difficult.
If I remember corectly, it was about 2 inches or so deep. Get some of those tongue depressors from a medical supply to use for push sticks to get the twisted wire down into the slot. We never did use any backer rods, but sometimes it was a bit hard to get the wire to stay in the slot while the sealant goop is applied.. I think that's what the backer rod is for. A good shop vac is great for cleaning out the slot prior to installing the loop wire. We would run 3/4" pvc buried out to the begining of the loop from inside the gate operator, (they usually have a big cut out on the bottom for this purpose. Then we backfilled and paved over the pipe. We did not go 24" deep with the pipe. I think we are talking .5 volts here. WE had a 100 per cent success rate with this stuff, it isn't so difficult.
charlie tuna
Senior Member
- Location
- Florida
Re: motor operated gates
just use common sense on the depth of the cut. where you have a common saw cut holding three sets of loop wire--either cut the concrete deeper or wider to accept the loop wire--i always wanted at least a quarter of an inch cover over the loop conductors. if you cut it too wide then you'll have a problem keeping the loop wire in place prior to caulking it. you must also consider structual strength when cutting concrete! know how the system works before cutting. and check the layout of the loops to be correct.
just use common sense on the depth of the cut. where you have a common saw cut holding three sets of loop wire--either cut the concrete deeper or wider to accept the loop wire--i always wanted at least a quarter of an inch cover over the loop conductors. if you cut it too wide then you'll have a problem keeping the loop wire in place prior to caulking it. you must also consider structual strength when cutting concrete! know how the system works before cutting. and check the layout of the loops to be correct.
hardworkingstiff
Senior Member
- Location
- Wilmington, NC
Re: motor operated gates
backer rod is a round foam filler. Kind of like a string with a large diameter, made of foam.
I've run some tank monitors with cable installed in concrete the way you are talking about. We cut about a 1" deep slot, usually using two blades side by side on the concrete saw. We don't make 90 degree turns (eventually cuts the cable), instead we make 45 degree turns. We like to sandwich the cable between the backer rod. So after we make the cut, we push down a run of backer rod, then we install the cable and then push in another run of backer rod. Fill it with a one part urethane self leveling concrete caulk.
Backer rod comes in different diameters. Know what you need.
Running through asphalt has been problematic for us. The asphalt does not hold up too well, and tends to break off and damage the wire. We've done this in parking lots of C stores, so the asphalt is not of the highest quality (like roadways), and the cable we used is probably not a durable as it should be (manufacturer specified cable).
backer rod is a round foam filler. Kind of like a string with a large diameter, made of foam.
I've run some tank monitors with cable installed in concrete the way you are talking about. We cut about a 1" deep slot, usually using two blades side by side on the concrete saw. We don't make 90 degree turns (eventually cuts the cable), instead we make 45 degree turns. We like to sandwich the cable between the backer rod. So after we make the cut, we push down a run of backer rod, then we install the cable and then push in another run of backer rod. Fill it with a one part urethane self leveling concrete caulk.
Backer rod comes in different diameters. Know what you need.
Running through asphalt has been problematic for us. The asphalt does not hold up too well, and tends to break off and damage the wire. We've done this in parking lots of C stores, so the asphalt is not of the highest quality (like roadways), and the cable we used is probably not a durable as it should be (manufacturer specified cable).
hardworkingstiff
Senior Member
- Location
- Wilmington, NC
Re: motor operated gates
LOL, you're taxing my brain now! I don't remember, but I think it was a concrete accessories store. I believe they actually had to bring it in (not in stock).
tx2step
Senior Member
- Location
- North Texas, DFW area
Re: motor operated gates
You should be able to get backer-rod at any concrete supply/accessory store. You can even get it around here at the Orange or Blue box.
It's just a foam rod (noodle like) and you can get it in different diameters to match the width of the cut.
It's commonly used in concrete paving or slabs at all of the expansion or control joints. It's put into the expansion and the saw-cut control joints to keep from having to use too much caulk. It's normally set at 1/2" to 3/4" below the surface elevation. Control joints often crack all the way through the slab, and the backer rod keeps the caulk in just the top 1/2" of the cut.
Use traffic grade self-leveling caulk. You just pour it in and it will level out on its own. Be sure it's traffic grade, or it won't hold up. Then you get to dig it out and put the right stuff in.
You should be able to get backer-rod at any concrete supply/accessory store. You can even get it around here at the Orange or Blue box.
It's just a foam rod (noodle like) and you can get it in different diameters to match the width of the cut.
It's commonly used in concrete paving or slabs at all of the expansion or control joints. It's put into the expansion and the saw-cut control joints to keep from having to use too much caulk. It's normally set at 1/2" to 3/4" below the surface elevation. Control joints often crack all the way through the slab, and the backer rod keeps the caulk in just the top 1/2" of the cut.
Use traffic grade self-leveling caulk. You just pour it in and it will level out on its own. Be sure it's traffic grade, or it won't hold up. Then you get to dig it out and put the right stuff in.
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