Motor Starter Identification

Status
Not open for further replies.
StreamlineGT

StreamlineGT

Senior Member
I was recently contacted by a municipality, which is the kind of work I want to get, being my own home town, and they asked if I could come and look at replacing some motor starter/control equipment. I, of course, said absolutely, wanting to cater to them completely.

What I came across is an old FPE motor starter, three of them to be exact, and they are all broken in some form or another. He asked if I could replace them, and I said yes. The problem is that I am having trouble finding an "exact" replacement. The websites of the big three are very hard to navigate, and supply houses are basically useless if you don't know what you want...... so....... This is what I need.

2hp 240 volt single phase starter, inside the enclosure is a 240/120 step down xformer to a fuse holder for control. The front cover has a manual ON/OFF disonnect also. I'm sure I can make something work with a regular motor starter and a manual motor rated switch, but I was trying to find a direct replacement.

Any body have any suggestions? Internet search tips?

Thanks in advance!

Brendon

p.s. I have some pics, but they are from my Blackberry, I'll try to get em up soon.
 
Pics!!

Pics!!

Sorry for the crappy pics, the BlackBerry Pearl doesn't take great pictures in low light. The RIB's and the CT are part of a automation system retrofitted into the building, so those will be reconnected to whatever goes back in.

IMG00088.jpg


IMG00090.jpg


IMG00089.jpg


I'm probably going to have to go back and take some better pics with the SLR.... :(
 
zog said:
Can you post that nameplate info?
Click to expand...

I talked to the Public works guy, and he says he will let me back in to take better pics later today hopefully. I brought the SLR this time..... :D
 
frenchelectrican said:
I am not sure but seems like Allen Bradey Model number and i am pretty much it is a class 1 starter size.

[ but i may be wrong on this but it possiblty it a Westinghouse verison as well both are very simauir to this.]

Merci, Marc
Click to expand...
He said it was FPE, who is looooong gone and has been out of the motor starter business even longer. There will be no exact replacement, and I wouldn't repair them even if you could find parts. FPE is not defunct without reason...

Streamline,
Anybody's NEMA Size 0 single phase magnetic motor starter with cover mounted push buttons will suffice, but it isn't likely that you will find one on the shelf anywhere with a CPT inside, or even in a box with room for a CPT. The reason is, usually 240V 1 phase would not need a CPT, because if you go line to neutral you already have 120V. Don't you have that neutral available? If so you can forgo the CPT altogether.

If not, you may be able to fit anyone's open style Size 0 starter in there and re-use the CPT setup you have. The only problem there will be that the cover push buttons will need to be added to the existing lid you have now, and the hole for the FPE buttons will need to be plugged.

In any case, don't forget that you will need heater elements and will need the motor nameplate FLA to size them. Don't assume the numbers on the old FPE heaters are related to amps directly, usually they are just a reference number.
 
Jraef said:
Streamline,
Anybody's NEMA Size 0 single phase magnetic motor starter with cover mounted push buttons will suffice, but it isn't likely that you will find one on the shelf anywhere with a CPT inside, or even in a box with room for a CPT. The reason is, usually 240V 1 phase would not need a CPT, because if you go line to neutral you already have 120V. Don't you have that neutral available? If so you can forgo the CPT altogether.
Click to expand...

Yeah, there is a panel within sight, so I may just pull a neutral and a separate control circuit for all 3 starters.

Jraef said:
If not, you may be able to fit anyone's open style Size 0 starter in there and re-use the CPT setup you have. The only problem there will be that the cover push buttons will need to be added to the existing lid you have now, and the hole for the FPE buttons will need to be plugged.
Click to expand...

I am just going to replace them, like you said. Seems like the easiest thing to do. The funny thing is, the building was just freshened up, and all new conduits are feeding these, too bad the contractor didn't replace them then, but my gain I guess.

Jraef said:
In any case, don't forget that you will need heater elements and will need the motor nameplate FLA to size them. Don't assume the numbers on the old FPE heaters are related to amps directly, usually they are just a reference number.
Click to expand...

The FPE unit has a dial adjustable trip, set at 14, which equates to 17.1 amps. I will check the nameplate on the old as dirt motors to double check though. Thanks for the reminder. It has been a while since I've even looked at a motor. These are the joys of being a sole proprietor, not a lot of industrial jobs.
 
dbuckley said:
Whatz those things hangin' off the sides with a LED on?
Click to expand...

The RIB's and the CT are part of a automation system retrofitted into the building, so those will be reconnected to whatever goes back in.
Click to expand...

They are hooked up to a central PLC for monitoring and remote control.
 
Most of the industial facilities I have worked in/for, have had a starter size minimum of Nema size 1.

I would recommend installing a Nema size 1. (I would not recommend installing an IEC contactor even though they may be less expensive)

I would also recomend adding a seperate fuse block and fuse for the HOT of the control wiring.

When you are done leaving a small sketch of the wiring diagram showing panel/ckt power is from plus control wires and fuse sizes will also help when they call you back out some time in the future.

I would also recommend installing a nameplate on the starter with panel and circuit numbers as well.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top