I'm wondering about the proper way to connect a motorized awning, the kind that homeowners put over their decks and patios. The ones I've been seeing lately have a short length, maybe 6 feet, of cord coming from the motor. I'm sure it's very common to just tuck the cord into the siding/moulding and snake it down to a surface box, or drill a hole and fish it down to a cut in box inside the house. The problem is I'm not too sure either one of these methods is code compliant. My solution has been to mount a weatherproof box near the motor, just below the awning. I enter the power cord for the awning into the box, and fish a length of NM cable through the back of the box into the wall and down to the switch. Is there another way?
Motorized awning
- Thread starter JES2727
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stickboy1375
Senior Member
- Location
- Litchfield, CT
Check out ART 400.7(B) You HAVE to use an attachment plug...
stickboy1375
Senior Member
- Location
- Litchfield, CT
celtic said:A WP box up high, 3 way switches (one inside, one outside) is what I try and sell
People go for that? Do you cut them in back to back? :grin:
Actually, I shouldn't smile your probably serious...FWIW, the last one I did had a 3 position switch, OPEN, OFF, CLOSE.
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Brady Electric
Senior Member
- Location
- Asheville, N. C.
Motorized awning
I agree with you and that's the way I do it. Although most of the ones I have wired the awning is outside a sliding glass door on a small deck which doesn't require two switches. But you are so right, if the customer wants it "do it". Semper Fi.
celtic said:Customers want it and want it all ...your job is to sell it to them
I agree with you and that's the way I do it. Although most of the ones I have wired the awning is outside a sliding glass door on a small deck which doesn't require two switches. But you are so right, if the customer wants it "do it". Semper Fi.
stickboy1375 said:
This is the way I've been seeing them also. It's not clear to me how 3 way switches would work in this situation without relays.
I've never seen one connected by an attachment plug either. That would be even uglier than a WP box with a blank cover.....
Oakey
Senior Member
- Location
- New Jersey
Jes what part of NJ are you from might I ask?
- Location
- Wisconsin
- Occupation
- PE (Retired) - Power Systems
JES2727 said:
A 3-way switch is really a SPDT (single pole double throw) device. Bring your power feed into the common terminal, then one "traveller" would be for "open" and the other for "close". One concern may be that there is no Off position so the switch can not be the disconnect for the motor.
LarryFine
Master Electrician Electric Contractor Richmond VA
- Location
- Henrico County, VA
- Occupation
- Electrical Contractor
Another concern is that, if there are no travel-limit switches, the motor may be constantly powered and may burn out with a switch with no center-off position.jim dungar said:
You can get center-off toggle switches with spring-loaded travel in both directions. They'd be called "momentary-on/off/momentary-on".
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stickboy1375
Senior Member
- Location
- Litchfield, CT
JES2727 said:
Ugly or not, it's code, but thats what happens with no inspections..., I see them hard wired all the time...
- Location
- Wisconsin
- Occupation
- PE (Retired) - Power Systems
celtic said:Isn't that what the plug is for
Yes, that is why you may want an ugly plug.
stickboy1375
Senior Member
- Location
- Litchfield, CT
jim dungar said:Yes, that is why you may want an ugly plug.
I've yet to see one that didn't require an ugly plug....
stickboy1375 said:
A 4 prong receptacle would be neccessary (open/close/neutral/ground), which would be on the load side of the switch. Is that the way you do it?
jim dungar said:
That much I understand. Celtic uses two 3 way switches. That won't work with the OPEN/CLOSE scenario, where you've got two leads going to the motor that need to be switched. You could conceivably have power on both leads at once.
Turnpike exit 8AOakey said:
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