Mounting LED wall packs to pole barns

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VirutalElectrician

Senior Member
Location
Mpls, MN
Occupation
Sparky - Trying to be retired
I have about two dozen LED wall packs I need to mount to the side of a pole barn...Think ribbed steel if you are unfamiliar.

I've been Googling for ideas and the industry in general seems to have failed here. No one has come up with a decent solution and lots of hacked up ideas out there.

The back looks like this:


1666907604672.png
the inside:
1666977588804.png

The documentation states: "The back plate has a cast-in drill and knock-out template to match any standard recessed junction box"

Which seems to be a lie. A round pan box fits nicely in the recessed circle, but no such knock outs exist on the inside to put screws through to secure them together.

They have 1/2" threaded holes on the side and bottom for conduit, but that would be unsightly to use when the back should be more than adequare.

The 3 smaller round recesses are for 5/8 bolts. But on an uneven surface like ribbed steel, there wouldn't be a good way to seal them once you penetrate the structure as there'd 1/2 space between the wall and the fixture. Enough for water, but not enough to room to get back there and seal it up once the bolts are in place.

I found these stand off type things used for mounting solar panels to pole barns:
1666909278587.png

Which might just work, but there's still the issue of attaching a box to the back of the device. Would have been nice if they had just put another 1/2 threaded hole there instead of the mess that's there now.

I contacted Hubbell in regards to how much weight their boxes were designed to hold, they said boxes with 6/32 screws are designed to hold 6lbs. They also make some Light packs (the LNC4 series) that appear to be designed to be supported by a 2 gang outdoor box. So I asked them what box is supposed to be used to support their heavy LNC4 devices, but haven't heard back yet.
 

James L

Senior Member
Location
Kansas Cty, Mo, USA
Occupation
Electrician
For the wire I've used 1/2" Carflex in the back (drill 7/8" hole into building), going to a 1900 box inside the building. You can seal it if desired

For mounting I drill 4 holes near the corners and use Tek screws into the flat siding. You could use the ones with rubber washers
 

hbiss

EC, Westchester, New York NEC: 2014
Location
Hawthorne, New York NEC: 2014
Occupation
EC
Exactly. You can also just put a connector in that KO and run MC from it through a hole through the side of the building. Seal it with silicone or duct seal.

-Hal
 

Rick 0920

Senior Member
Location
Jacksonville, FL
Occupation
Electrical Instructor
I've used short pieces of Unistrut or Kindorff to mount to the backplate. Install your whip of Carflex or Seal-tite. Then you can secure the strut to the ribs of your building with 1/4 20 hardware. Works like a charm!
 

Little Bill

Moderator
Staff member
Location
Tennessee NEC:2017
Occupation
Semi-Retired Electrician
I've done as mentioned above, drill hole for Carflex and run your cable through that and into the light housing. Before that, I pull the light wiring back into the housing and junction it to the supply. Use a button NM connector or threaded NM/MC connector. I like to use MC cable for this.
As for the light mounting, I usually have to put some kind of backer inside to screw to. I don't trust just the metal with Tek screws, too thin.
 

ActionDave

Chief Moderator
Staff member
Location
Durango, CO, 10 h 20 min from the winged horses.
Occupation
Licensed Electrician
I put the center of the knock out for the light on the high side of a rib and drill a 7/8" hole, rigid coupling to a close nipple to a lock ring inside the light and put a threaded MC connector or flex connector inside the barn. I secure the fixture to the metal siding with toggle bolts. Hopefully holes for the toggle bolts get drilled so they are on the ribs of the siding also so there are no gaps. If there are gaps I cut some spacers out of PVC.
 
I debated this on a recent job. These wallpacks did have punch outs for various box mounting patterns. but you could drill them too. I ended up mounting a round bell box to the flat of the siding, with two screws on the ears, and two more drilled on the inside, and silconed it (duplex MC connector in the back of the box). The correct screws will hold fine in the siding, plus the silicone will "glue" the box to the siding as well. Then I put a chase nipple in the wall pack and mounted it on the bell box.
 

VirutalElectrician

Senior Member
Location
Mpls, MN
Occupation
Sparky - Trying to be retired
I debated this on a recent job. These wallpacks did have punch outs for various box mounting patterns. but you could drill them too. I ended up mounting a round bell box to the flat of the siding, with two screws on the ears, and two more drilled on the inside, and silconed it (duplex MC connector in the back of the box). The correct screws will hold fine in the siding, plus the silicone will "glue" the box to the siding as well. Then I put a chase nipple in the wall pack and mounted it on the bell box.
Did you use any additional support for the fixture, or just use the screws to the box? These fixtures weigh about 15lbs, so not confident in just using the box screws for support.
 

VirutalElectrician

Senior Member
Location
Mpls, MN
Occupation
Sparky - Trying to be retired
I've used short pieces of Unistrut or Kindorff to mount to the backplate. Install your whip of Carflex or Seal-tite. Then you can secure the strut to the ribs of your building with 1/4 20 hardware. Works like a charm!
Unistrut is always the "go to", it's just that it's not a very decorative thing. But 14' up in the air, it won't be that visible. I would probably attach the Unistrut first, so it can be slighly narrower than the fixture, then attach the fixture.
 

Rick 0920

Senior Member
Location
Jacksonville, FL
Occupation
Electrical Instructor
Unistrut is always the "go to", it's just that it's not a very decorative thing. But 14' up in the air, it won't be that visible. I would probably attach the Unistrut first, so it can be slighly narrower than the fixture, then attach the fixture.
Exactly. I didn't explain that correctly in my post. I would fasten the Unistrut or Kindorff to the ribs of the metal building, the use 1/4" springnuts to mount the fixture to the strut. If I had a lot of wallpacks to do, buying some spray primer and paint to spray any visible ends is a good idea as well.
 
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