Need help with LED driver replacement

[Roger9]

So I’m trying to match a driver that’s gone bad at a commercial building. This driver is a “OSRAM 48W PRG 2000c/UNV/DIM/L

From what I’ve been told by many lighting companies this driver is “pre programmed” from the manufacturer between 700-200
milliamps. There should be a sticker on the side with the production date and output but I don’t see anything. Has anyone ever had this issue?

 

[synchro]

Are there other fixtures that are the same and with the same driver? If so, perhaps you could measure the DC current output of the driver when the 0-10V control is at the maximum and with the LEDs connected. And then you could use that info to get a suitable replacement.

 

[Roger9]

I think there is one other fixture in the building. I get what you’re saying, I was thinking about taking the red coming from my driver to the LEDs off and throwing my tester on the positive side of the driver and then the red or positive going to the LEDs. If that makes any sense

 

[Mr. Serious]

I think there is one other fixture in the building. I get what you’re saying, I was thinking about taking the red coming from my driver to the LEDs off and throwing my tester on the positive side of the driver and then the red or positive going to the LEDs. If that makes any sense

Yes. Set your meter to a range that matches the expected current and put it in series with the circuit. This seems to be what you're describing.

Note: if you or someone else had ever used the meter to measure too high of a current or accidentally tried to measure voltage when on the current setting, then the fuse will be blown in the meter so it won't work.

 

[Roger9]

Yes but you explained it might better thank you.

Yes I do know to make sure my meter is setup correctly for before testing. I appreciate the heads up tho! Thank you for your responses

 

[Roger9]

Yes. Set your meter to a range that matches the expected current and put it in series with the circuit. This seems to be what you're describing.

Note: if you or someone else had ever used the meter to measure too high of a current or accidentally tried to measure voltage when on the current setting, then the fuse will be blown in the meter so it won't work.

So I went back today and tested the red (positive) with my clamp meter since I wasn’t able to shut off the lights and it read between 01.14-01.18 but was steady at 01.14 so I’m going with a 1140mA driver I’m hoping if it’s off a couple milliamps it won’t hurt