Need opinions on this device

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http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300454789352&ssPageNam e=ADME:X:RTQ:US:1123

There's an ongoing discussion about the safety of this device going on elsewhere on the web. Pictures of the internals they've received from the manufacturer show a totally uninsulated nichrome heating element that connects to 240V and the neutral wire connects to the "center tap" of this heating element.

It has a ground wire but we can't tell what it's connected to. When someone that bought one hooked it up and received a shock he wrote the manufacturer who said that it's normal to meaure between 30V - 36V from the water stream to ground, they also advised not to use any sort of GFCI or AFCI breaker on the source.

If I recall tankless heaters normally have the element encased in ceramic and covered with nickel with power connection taking place outside of the tank.

How can they get by selling this type device, especially in the US?
 

hurk27

Senior Member
Got a better link?

http://www.productoracoral.com/ducha_eng.htm

Well the e-bay page says it uses 220 volts, but the manufactures site says it runs on 110 volts but says you have to put a 30 amp fuse in for the receptacl it is pluged into, now that just does not sound to code compliant to me, and I see no NTRL listing at all.

and since most showers use 5 gpm or more I would say it would do very little heating at 3kw.

my finel answer=junk as seen on TV type of stuff.:cool:
 
Junk yes, but safe with an unisulated heating element? A moot point but many newer houses have CPVC plumbing, they've already shocked people and what if one side of that 120-0-120 heating element opened up?

If I'm ever asked to install one I'm going to politely decline due to no UL or any other certifications on the device.

Best news I had this week was the PFC Caps I had to pretty well guess on (not much data to go with) for a 4 compressor, 90 ton chiller were almost right on the money, the reactive component fell substantially as did overall power consumption.
 

K8MHZ

Senior Member
Location
Michigan. It's a beautiful peninsula, I've looked
Occupation
Electrician
Installation:

1.Turn off the breaker.
2.Disconnect the Shower head.
3.Look and recognize were are parts located before beginning.
4.Unscrew the bolts on top of the unit (8 bolts).
5.Carefully collect each one of the nuts corresponding to each bolt (8 nuts), found under the lower black rubber seal.
6. Disassemble the unit.
7. Change the heating resistance for the new spare part and repeat process backwards, making sure you assemble everything as you took it
apart, tightening the bolts back on just hard enough.
8.Allow the showerhead to fill up with water before turning breaker back on in order to prevent it from seizing.

So, how does it get it's power?
 

shepelec

Senior Member
Location
Palmer, MA
Probably comes with it own brown lamp extention cord. It's ok at 30A because all of the water from the shower will cool the cord.:roll:

I can't wait to find one of these on a job.
 

Jraef

Moderator, OTD
Staff member
Location
San Francisco Bay Area, CA, USA
Occupation
Electrical Engineer
... they also advised not to use any sort of GFCI or AFCI breaker on the source.
That directly contradicts what they say in their website:

imagenistruccionesneg.jpg


My advice, run the other way... these people are a disaster waiting to happen.
 

dbuckley

Senior Member
You'll note that this shower thing references EN 60335-2-35, which is a still current standard "Specification for safety of household and similar electrical appliances. Particular requirements for instantaneous water heaters", info here.

I'm not sure of the irony quotient here, with this thing referencing a safety standard...
 
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